Hi all, I am finally actually getting to work on the fabric. I know most of you did it in the correct sequence which is building a rotisserie and doing the fabric early in the build process. Well I have to do things the hard way and put it off. My engine and prop are hung and firewall forward is 90 percent done so there won’t be the use of a rotisserie. I have however finished about 90 percent of the build other than the fabric covering. I just began using the PolyFiber system and have been self teaching myself, so of course have made some mistakes. I have covered (but not yet brushed or sprayed) the trim tabs, gear legs and the rudder. I will begin on the stabilizer or elevators tomorrow. My question pertains to the fuselage covering down the road. What did you do reference the stabilizer protrusion and access points other than the standard inspection rings? Aluminum and riveted or epoxied seems obvious but any guidance and/or photos would be appreciated.
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I agree with Jared, I have only covered one other fuselage and I couldn’t imagine trying to do it upside down.
I am building in much the same way, I didn’t want the fabric on early for fear of damaging it so I am working on the firewall forward and plan on taking it apart before I cover.
Here are a few pictures of what I did around the hinges on the tail and my rotisserieYou do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 4 photos.
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We covered our plane while it was sitting on its gear and I thought it was a non issue, but we used Stewart Systems. If you spend a day removing stuff so you can use a rotisserie that alone will take more time than it took us to cover the fuselage. It’s very likely that the covering system used may be the difference of opinion here. Using poly fiber and the required clamps while working upside down would likely be a miserable experience.
I could see some benefit to a rotisserie during painting but not enough for me to take the time to build one.
Last edited by whee; 02-06-2019, 10:18 AM.Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.
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When I recovered my Maule I never removed the gear or engine. I used polyfiber and it went fine. However I put on aluminum belly panels so didn't have to try to install fabric upside down. Would think you would need another persons help with it. For access at the tail a ring can be used at the forward stabilizer tube. You need a rectangular opening at the rear tube to provide access to the elevator and trim tab connections. I welded tabs back there for an aluminum frame to attach the fabric to but forgot to record the dimensions I was going to use. Will have to figure that out again.Last edited by rodsmith; 02-06-2019, 10:31 AM.
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Thanks everyone for the input. Forums like this are great to get various ideas and opinions to mull over. Luke thanks for your pics, I did just exactly what you and some others did there, but it wasn’t my idea. I saw some photos of this method on Ron Jones build website. A picture is worth a thousand words.
Also thanks again for all you folks who took the time to respond. Bearhawkers like all plane builders are a special group of people.
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We had engine on and boot cowl fitted before covering but removed them to cover. Did not use a rotisserie, just saw horses to get it to comfortable height whether upside down, on side, etc. I would not want to cover with engine on. We used the Stewart system but having used Polyfiber in the past, I don't think that makes a lot of difference. I do like the Stewart glue.
For access to elevator and trim linkage you can make rectangular frames out of aluminum, glue to fabric, wrap on them to reinforce. You don't need to attach frames to the structure. Be sure to make them plenty large (ours were a bit on the small side which we regretted later). The videos of the Stewart process available on-line show how to do it.
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Originally posted by Tim213 View Post......My question pertains to the fuselage covering down the road. What did you do reference the stabilizer protrusion and access points other than the standard inspection rings? Aluminum and riveted or epoxied seems obvious but any guidance and/or photos would be appreciated.
Stewart Systems has a series of videos that cover an entire Piper Colt. Hours of watching. The fuselage is covered in two videos but takes 2.5 hours to view in real time.
Frames were made of .020 Aluminum and glued it inside of the fabric, then fabric tape adhered around the boarder to totally encompass the frame in fabric. I can envision fabricating a cover and adding nutates to the frame and prior to initial installation of the frame, kind of like the frame and cover panel installation in the wing.
Go to 1:25:00 in the video titled "Piper Fuselage Covering Part 1."
Official Piper Fuselage Covering instructional video from Stewart Systems. See directory below to jump to any part of the demonstration.Introduction https://...
Go to 24:23 in Part Two linked below to see how he finishes things off and see the other two style of fittings. Pay attention to how to locate the place in the fabric where the rudder cables exit. I also like how he deals with the vertical stab fabric as it migrates away from the ribs and transitions with the fuselage super longeron.
Official Piper Fuselage Covering instructional video from Stewart Systems. See directory below to jump to any part of the demonstration.Introduction https://...
Screen Shot 2019-02-06 at 1.43.59 PM.pngBrooks Cone
Southeast Michigan
Patrol #303, Kit build
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Originally posted by Luke68 View PostHere are a few pictures of what I did around the hinges on the tail
I'm also curious if people are sealing these areas around the hinges up somehow? If 33 years in the NE Sandhills has taught me one thing, it's that if sand can find a way in it's going to collect in there over time. Or is a little sand in the rudder and elevators over time not really a big of deal? Appreciate any advice!Colby Osborn
Mullen/Lincoln Nebraska
Model 5 Quick Build Kit
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