Stewarts glue tip

[rodsmith]

Last week I started my interior fabric. I was having a problem getting an even coating of glue on the tubing, had streaking and sometimes beading of the glue. I called Andy at Stewart. He recommended scuffing up the tubing with scotch bright and also trimming the 1" brushes so the bristles are even. Now getting a much more even coverage of glue on the tubing. I am really enjoying the Stewarts covering system. I had used Polyfiber previously so was tempted to go with what I knew, but so nice to work without a respirator.

[spinningwrench]

I’m leaning towards the Stewart process as well. Covered two airplanes with Poly-Fiber and felt I was living in a chemistry lab.

[robcaldwell]

I'm having a blast covering my BH using the Stewart Systems! Love it!

[Bcone1381]

Rob, help us understand the big picture....when should the interior cover be started? After all the wiring is in place, or before? After engine controls are installed? After Cabin Ventilation details are in place? How about windshield and sky light installation?

BYI, covering the interior is not on the Flow Chart.

[robcaldwell]

I installed the liner at rear seat and cargo area early. But after I ran fuel lines. I did not cover the interior area under the front seats until after I ran my wiring and had my EAA Technical Counselor visit. I used clear thin walled conduit for the wiring. All of my wiring from the wings runs down the rear posts. Nothing down the front posts except the fuel lines. I will say that this really cleans up the aesthetics, but is also a PITA especially if you have a lot of wiring for equipment like I do. The clear conduit is the only way to go for that much wiring. You can see an example on this video at the 7:35 mark: https://youtu.be/tJE9Hk1rLaE

[rodsmith]

I'm just finishing my interior, I did all fuel lines and most of the wiring first. I have overhead headset jacks and an overhead light, and gps antenna connections that need to be completed before the exterior fabric. I also plan on a tech counselor visit before starting the exterior fabric.

[interstate al]

I started with my control surfaces and am complete except for perimeter tapes. No previous experience other than practicing on a spare Interstate rudder I had on the wall. Like others I love the Stewart's System and really enjoying the covering process.

[Wmilbauer]

Just for your information,I know we do not make mistakes, but if you want to practice removing Stewart's glue MEK works great.

[whee]

A tip: Be as clean and tidy with the glue as possible. Thoroughly wipe away any excess before it dries otherwise it will leave a mess what may be seen through the paint. If you have excess dry glue on the airframe tubes a sanding belt cleaning block takes it off nicely.

[rodsmith]

A tip: Be as clean and tidy with the glue as possible. Thoroughly wipe away any excess before it dries otherwise it will leave a mess what may be seen through the paint. If you have excess dry glue on the airframe tubes a sanding belt cleaning block takes it off nicely.

That's very important. I'm really trying to be neat with the interior work, I want to go light on the ekofill, since UV isn't an issue. One thing I found is it is much easier when gluing tapes to get the excess glue cleanly off if you are using it fresh from the bottle vs what has been sitting in the cup for a couple hours, even covered with a wet rag.

[rvanbladeren]

I noticed that Stewarts has added a new step between fabric final shrink and the first coat of Echofill. They now suggest applying a light coat of diluted ekobond (one part ekobond with 3 parts distilled water) with a foam brush to seal the weave. Then the coats of ekofill. They also say that the backside could remain a bit tacky and may stick to substructures that are close to the backside of the fabric. This could be a problem for those of us that do not plan to cover the interior of the fuselage. I was wondering is anyone has added this new step to their coating process and noticed any tackiness to the backside of the fabric.

Ron,
P131

[whee]

I talked to a guy that is the Stewart’s expert and he said the tackiness will go away. The tackiness I felt in some locations has gone away in my plane but I did not use the current diluted glue method. Stewart’s told me either method was acceptable.

[robcaldwell]

Some of the newer notes from Stewart I have read describe using either EcoFill, or diluted EcoBound. Either or. I prefer to use EcoFill after the final shrink.

[BradW1062]

Ha! - Like another post I just made, I am way behind the time curve...4+ years this time, so please forgive me for dredging up old topics. Oh well, the fallacies of life, and of unfinished projects.

After more than 13 years, I am getting close enough to start thinking about the covering and finishing on my "QB" Bearhawk. As such, I have been reviewing my plans and procedures, and the Stewart Systems process was originally part of that. Now, I am starting to question some things. This EkoFill vs EkoBond thing is top on my list of fabric covering questions. I have sent SS an email to ask for more detail as to why it was changed. Their manual, section 10, dated 07/01/19, says:

"Before EkoFill (E620) can be applied, the
weave of the fabric must be sealed with
EkoBond (E610G or E610L). (To simulate
the look of cotton fabric on the inside of
the aircraft use EkoBond Linen (E610L) to
seal the weave.) In the past EkoFill was
used to seal the weave of the fabric, but
we have found that using EkoBond is both
easier and provides better adhesion.
EkoBond must be used on all fabric to fill
the weave prior to application of EkoFill."

I immediately focus on the "must be"s in this. Why "must" the fabric be sealed with EkoBond? Stewart, for years, touted their superior weave-filling capabilities and exceptional UV protection for the fabric of EkoFill. And now to change that in 2019 to using the glue to seal the fabric? Why? So I have asked for an explanation. And it appears from the manual revisions that they went to "EkoBond as an acceptable method" for weave filling in the 2/1/17 revision, and then to "EkoBond only" in 7/1/19. This screams to me that they found something wrong with the product, or as typical, they found that people weren't doing it correctly and now they are "dipping the herd". Well, I need to know the technical reasons. I know, I am just one used-to-be now potential customer, and maybe they are tired of hearing it, but we will see.

The only explanation they give here is: "we have found that using EkoBond is both easier and provides better adhesion". Well, firstly, I didn't see that there was anything "hard" about using EkoFill - the little bit I used, it worked great. And I used a foam roller and a foam brush - not much easier than that! So who are they catering to? Model airplane builders? Elementary school kids? I am a big fan of using the best method, but not of always using the easiest method, and I could get up on a soap box about that problem in our society in a heartbeat - but not here. Secondly; "better adhesion" - to what? The fabric hopefully ain't trying to stick to anything out in the middle of the span. So I assume they mean "adhesion for the top coats" - which is what they should have said if that's what they mean.

Has anyone gained any further understanding of this since they changed it? Does anyone but me care? I was at Oshkosh a couple of years ago, but I wasn't aware of it then, or you better bet I would have talked to them then about it.

Perplexed in Georgia,
Brad

[Bcone1381]

The info that follows come from my human memory. Data I haven is from taking a Stewarts Class in 2022.

They did not find anything wrong with the product. They had user issues that resulted in adhesion problems.

When the user applied Ecofil on fabric that was dry (fabric should have been damp) the ecofil did not penetrate the weave of the fabric resulting in adhesion issues. The fabric must be damp for Ecofil to penetrate it. and it must penetrate to produced mechanical adhesion. One can look at the back of the fabric and see this penetration. Its easy to see where the fabric was too dry. And fabric dries as we work after we make it damp.

The consequenses of the Ecofil not penetrating the dry fabric the painted areas could peel off the fabric. That is pretty deamaging to the aircraft and the supplier even if the user knows he did not do it iaw their instructions. No one wants that.

But Diluted ecobond penetrates dry fabric and Ecofil really bonds to it. Applying the diluted ecobond is very simple, fast and no bid deal. The Diluted Ecobond penetrates and seals the weave of the fabric and provides an outstanding platform for ecofil adhesion. Besides, you likely have the surplus ecobond on hand making material of this step cost almost zero.

[N3UW]

I may be wrong but I seem to remember from a class I took with them in Montana that there was an issue under special circumstances that the ecofil could absorb moisture from the unpainted side of the fabric. The ecobond prevented this because it sealed the fabric.

[rv8bldr]

I may be wrong but I seem to remember from a class I took with them in Montana that there was an issue under special circumstances that the ecofil could absorb moisture from the unpainted side of the fabric. The ecobond prevented this because it sealed the fabric.

+1 on this. I've watched all of the Stewart Systems videos on YouTube several times each (that guy from a few years ago who can't go more than 30 seconds without saying "...go ahead..." drives me nuts). There is one video of a seminar where they are presenting the system and they specifically say that the EkoBond on fabric is a moisture barrier as they were having issues with just EkoFill.

I am just going through all of this right now, actually, on my empennage surfaces and cargo doors. Need to clean, and etch, and prime the door skins, then final sanding on everything and paint in the next couple of days...

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[BradW1062]

Those are looking great, Mark! I hope I can get similar results...