DavzLSA progress

[BTAZ]

You could try chasing them with a nut as it would "reform" the thread instead of cutting away the damaged metal.

A regular AN nut will likely work better than a stainless nut as there is less chance of galling.

There are also "thread repair" dies available that again would reform the metal instead of cutting it away.

In any case, use some lubricant.

Last resort, better to fix them with a carefull application of a jewlers file. Note there are thread repair files that work well though, if the damage is localized, I've used a jewlers file under a magnifying glass.

I can pretty much guarantee that if you run a standard die on them it will take extra metal out, basically converting them into cut threads and the associated drawbacks

[Mark Goldberg]

I have always threaded a good nut inboard of where I cut threads off. Backing the nut out rectifies the cut threads enough I have been told.

Bob has approved the Patrol builders routinely cutting off some threads of their wires so the same size wires can be ordered for the Patrol & the 4 place. For group discount purposes. Mark

[davzLSA]

HI Brad,
I did try using an AN nut but it would only go on for a few threads then it got very tight and I did not want to gall the threads and get the nut stuck on. I tried it with lube oil as well with the same results. I did run a standard die down on the threads but it did not seem to remove any metal just a film that was on the threads. They seem to work fine now I'm able to get the stainless steel nuts on them with no effort. I'm just dreading to have to cut the top wires.
Thanks,
David Swann

[davzLSA]

Thanks Mark,
That makes me feel a little easier about cutting the wires. Now that I can get the nuts on them it should go easy? I hope. I plan to cut them with a cutoff wheel in my die grinder.

Thanks,
David Swann

[davzLSA]

I did use a split die on the threads.

[BTAZ]

If the issue is getting a nut on after cutting, then like Mark said, thread a nut on before cutting the end off. When you cut, do it as squarely as you can and then dress the end square on a belt sander.

Thread a few on and it will help you hold it square on the table of a bandsaw if that's what you use.

A good look under a magnifying glass will guide you when dressing the end after cutting.

It takes a bit of care to make sure the lead thread is still good after cutting but not difficult.

[davzLSA]

Yes first I will thread the nut on and then cut the wire, I plan to use the cut off wheel in my die grinder to do the cut. I think it will make the cleanest cut.

[davzLSA]

HI Guys,
Progress to report, I finally got the tail wires on. I had to remake one of the connectors, one seized on one of my tail wires and fortunately it was only up the wire about 1/4 of an inch so I had to cut the wire which turned out to be OK because I needed to shorten it about that much anyway. Here are some pictures they are a little over exposed, anyway check them out,

[davzLSA]

Cutting the wires turned out to be a non-event, putting the nut on before cutting helped a lot, The threads were not that badly mess up from the cut so the nut had easy work reforming the threads. Now its on to the struts, I think I will do them tomorrow so ill be posting as soon as I get them done.

[davzLSA]

Progress, with the tail wires done I am now working on the front horizontal stab struts. OK here is the way I have decided to attach the strut to the front of the horizontal stab. I made a bushing that Im going to weld into one end the strut tube, the bushing is about 3/8 in diameter and drilled and tapped for a 1/4 28 bolt. Next I cut the head off of a an4 bolt and welded it into 3 inches of an4 bushing tube left about 1 inch of thread sticking out of one end the bushing tube. The opposite end of the bushing tube with the bolt welded in will be heated and flattened and will have a 1/4 inch hole drilled so it can be bolted to the front spar of the horizontal stab. As for the other end of the strut I will split it and flatten it to slide up on the plate welded to the bottom of the fuse. I will weld reinforcing doubles ala BTAZ on the split ends and bolt it to the plate. The picture is a picture of the bushings I will weld into one end of the strut tube and the cleats that have the AN4 bolt welded in one end and the other end will be heated and flattened.

[davzLSA]

OK guys horizontal stab struts are DONE!!! Here are the pics. Tell me what you think.

[stinger]

The strut forking over the leading edge looks nice but when you apply the fabric you are going to have a large opening into the slip stream. I think I would only attach to the bottom. Stinger

[davzLSA]

Hi Stinger, thanks for your comment and recommendation. Im not sure though if I know exactly what you are talking about. The plans are not very clear on very much of anything about the the struts or their attachment to the horizontal stab. If you spotted a problem I want to address it but I need to understand it. Please tell me which picture you are referring to where you see a problem. Thanks, David

[stinger]

David I hope this helps. yes, many items in the plans are vague. I am sure there are many ways to skin a cat but it is hard at times. Stinger

[BTAZ]

I think the "Forking over the leading edge" is an optical illusion. I think Dave closely replicated my solution but rather than forging the upper adjuster from a single piece he welded two pieces together


.image_4149.jpg

[davzLSA]

Hi Stinger, I think I see now what you are talking about the back side of the adjuster may contact the fabric on the bottom of the leading edge, so it looks like I will just need to adjust the angle down a little to avoid touching the fabric?