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Tensioning Flying Wires

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  • Tensioning Flying Wires

    Bob Barrows has given us some guidance as far as how to tighten your flying wires on the Patrol & 4 place BH. The LSA is different because it has 3/16" wires instead of 1/4" like the Patrol and 4 place BH.

    Take a 36 inch ruler and center it on the tensioned upper wires. Using a spring scale - pull 15 lbs of pressure in the middle and measure the deflection of the wire from the straight edge/ruler. At the 15 lbs of pull you should see about 3/8" deflection of the wire.

    Please keep in mind these are homebuilts and your mileage might vary. You do not want to overload the structure by tightening the wires too much. Tightening too much can also bind your controls and make them stiff. So keep this in mind as you tighten. But you should approach the value just described. That is what Bob has on his Patrol. Mark

  • #2
    Thanks Mark! I was just fitting my wires last night and wondered how tight I should make them when I do the final install. Now I know👍
    Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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    • #3
      Awesome! Thanks!
      Bobby Stokes
      4-Place Kit Builder
      Queen Creek, AZ
      http://azbearhawk.com

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      • #4
        Great information! Thanks a bunch, Mark.

        Bill

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        • #5
          Thanks Mark!

          Sent from my XT1031 using Tapatalk

          Mark
          Scratch building Patrol #275
          Hood River, OR

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          • #6
            I have my fuselage on a rotator so it is a little easier to see what is going on inside the torque tube (before covering). I connected the pushpull tube inside the torque tube to connect the 2 control sticks. When moved the sticks the was "noise"--obvious too close clearance. I tried AN3-5 at the bottom of the sticks but couldn't get the the nut to align with the bolt hole because the bolt was too short (no washers). I next put in a AN3-6 and carefully trimmed the cotterpin so it didn't extend too too much. That noble effort did work. Then I trimmed the end of the AN3-6 bolt on a grinder far enough to insert a cotter pin in a sheer nut, Forget about using a regular chassle nut. Only a sheer nut will work and it will barely work.
            Another option was to relieve the torque tube to allow clearance for the throws of the control sticks or use a locking nut on the bottom of the control sticks--not a real good option--but what do i know?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Jim Douglass View Post
              I have my fuselage on a rotator so it is a little easier to see what is going on inside the torque tube (before covering). I connected the pushpull tube inside the torque tube to connect the 2 control sticks. When moved the sticks the was "noise"--obvious too close clearance. I tried AN3-5 at the bottom of the sticks but couldn't get the the nut to align with the bolt hole because the bolt was too short (no washers). I next put in a AN3-6 and carefully trimmed the cotterpin so it didn't extend too too much. That noble effort did work. Then I trimmed the end of the AN3-6 bolt on a grinder far enough to insert a cotter pin in a sheer nut, Forget about using a regular chassle nut. Only a sheer nut will work and it will barely work.
              Another option was to relieve the torque tube to allow clearance for the throws of the control sticks or use a locking nut on the bottom of the control sticks--not a real good option--but what do i know?
              Perhaps you were aiming for a different thread?

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              • #8
                Does this work for both streamlined and round flying wires?

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