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  • Engine Governor Location

    I am beginning my search for an engine to power my Patrol. Apparently, a Lycoming O-360 can be had with either the more common rear accessory case mounted governor or with the left front mounted gorvernor (like Mark Goldberg's). Any strong reasons to choose one over the other? It seems like the front mount would be more convenient with the exception of running the cable to it. Has anyone used the rear mount and had any issues with crowding back there? Thanks, Ivan Haecker Patrol #150

  • #2
    Bob once told me that he likes to put the oil cooler up front, but was unable to do so on one of his planes that had the front governor. A rear governor requires an oil line from the governor to the front, so one way or another you'll have to route something up there.

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    • #3
      Mine isn't flying, but the engine installation is pretty much complete. I have an O-360 A1A, which has a rear governor. Clearance, with the factory supplied mount, is close but not a problem. A rear governor requires that you run a control cable to the governor and an oil line to the front oil port. A front governor only needs the control cable, as the oil ports are all internal. The O-360 A1P, front governor model, might be more difficult to find.
      If I was in your shoes, beginning the search for an engine, I'd rather have a front governor, just to simplify the installation, but either will work. Jared's comment about locating the oil cooler adds another consideration. My cooler is mounted on the firewall.

      Bill

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      • #4
        As Bill said, it is a different engine case that allows the governor on the front. Less common than the engines with rear governors. The rear placement can be tight, and a few builders have made cut outs in their firewalls to accommodate the rear governor and the control cable. Not a big complication but required depending on the size of the governor you use. Sometimes you can install the governor and cable just fine without a cutout on the firewall. But you might not be able to remove it without pulling your engine. Mark

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        • #5
          I used a PCU5000X governor. No cutout was necessary and I'm able to remove/install the governor without additional action. Everything is done, for that installation but I have the engine and mount removed to paint the fuselage. When I get it back together, I'll take some pictures if you'd like.

          Bill

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          • #6
            Yes, Bill. I would be very interested in pictures of your installation. Either on the forum or PM to me at hivanhaecker@gmail.com. Thanks. Ivan

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            • Bdflies
              Bdflies commented
              Editing a comment
              Roger that!

          • #7
            My apologies for the delay. Took a while to get the fuselage painted and engine back on. Then, I forgot..... There's so much stuff around the back of the engine, it's kinda difficult to get any detail of a specific component, but here are a couple of pics of what I did. If you want more detail, let me know what to zoom on. I'm not finished securing the plug wires, so yeah, I know they're flopping around.

            Bill
            You do not have permission to view this gallery.
            This gallery has 3 photos.

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            • #8
              Bill, what did you use for firewall penetration by the cables? It looks really good!
              Jim Parker
              Farmersville, TX (NE of Dallas)
              RANS S-6ES (E-LSA) with Rotax 912ULS (100 HP)

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              • #9
                Originally posted by JimParker256 View Post
                Bill, what did you use for firewall penetration by the cables? It looks really good!
                Are they these, Bill? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...eyeballfw3.php

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                • #10
                  Yes, Zane is right. Those eyeball fittings have gotten more comments than anything else on the plane! The eyeball action allows the cable to find its best relaxed position, then lock into that orientation. My only gripe, is that the threaded penetration is about 1.06". A 3/4" conduit punch would work great, but I don't have one. I do have a Rotabroach set (as recommended on this forum), which makes a beautiful 1" hole. Then I had to hog out the hole with a burr, to make them fit. A slight inconvenience, compared to the beauty of their solution to a common problem.

                  Bill

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