Patrol Inboard flap fairing

[Mark Goldberg]

There is one part of the Patrol that is not too well documented in the plans. It is the inboard side of the flap where it abuts the fuselage. You need one extra flap rib (each side) to make this most inboard part, and a piece of .032 AL which wraps the flap rib and connects (with rivets) to the main part of the flap. You see in the picture how the shape of the .032 turns out more or less. Like in many places, I used cardboard/poster board to simulate the part before cutting any aluminum. What you do is lower the flaps the full 40 degrees. Then you want to set this part up so you have 3/16" to 1/4" of clearance from the rear window acrylic. FYI - Bob says 1/8", but that seemed a little close to me.

I have seen this area dealt with in different ways in the finished Patrols since the detail on the plans is lacking. But this is what Bob had in mind. Can take some more pics if my description is not clear. Mark

[N3UW]

Mark, It would be great if you could take some photos. I am not sure I understand exactly what you are saying. Thanks

[aerolite]

John, here's what I did. The pic of the two plates on inside don't show the hole and slot yet for AN3 bolts that will hold the fairing in place. The rear is an arced slot so you can pivot the aft of the fairing to fine tune it with flap on final assembly.

[Collin Campbell]

Steve, that's amazing! Your pictures look almost exactly like what I did.


Collin Campbell, Patrol N180PB (still waiting on registration...)

[Enewton57]

Here is what I did using the extra flap ribs that come with the kit as mentioned by Mark.:

[Mark Goldberg]

I spoke again with Bob yesterday about this "fairing" which might not be the right word. Eric's pictures are exactly what I did. But Bob told me that he didn't use an extra rib. He just wrapped the .032 2024T3 around the flap end side and it has been stiff enough without the rib for 100's of hours of flying. So the extra rib is optional and not needed according to Bob. Mark

[aerolite]

FYI, I did the "fairing" as shown in my post above at the request of my customer. If I was doing it on my own plane I would do the same as Mark and Eric show. Alot easier to fab and install.

[Battson]

John, here's what I did. The pic of the two plates on inside don't show the hole and slot yet for AN3 bolts that will hold the fairing in place. The rear is an arced slot so you can pivot the aft of the fairing to fine tune it with flap on final assembly.

I notice you have an overhang on the fairing to seat against the flap. It's a tidy looking solution.
I think all the Bearhawk's have the unique flap design which reflexes in flight, including the Patrol? Have you changed something to prevent that happening? I would be really interested to know if there's a fix to that idiosyncrasy.

[Bcone1381]

I am finishing up the wing root fairing on my Patrol. I see in photos like Post #5 and in bearhawk.tips that the fairings are typically pop riveted to the flap after the flap is covered.

But much my fairing is now match drilled to the flap with no fabric. I now realized that the fabric + reinforcing tapes + coatings will change dimensions.. So my match drilled holes will not match up after its covered.

Question. Does anyone forsee problems if I rivet the fairing to the flap today, before it gets covered, then cover the assembly rather than cover the flap then attach the fairing on top of the fabric?

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[Mark Goldberg]

Brooks - I do not see any problem covering the flap after attaching this fairing. The only issue might be the smaller gap between the flap and the fuselage side when the flap is all the ways down. But I can't imagine you made that gap so small that the fabric would cause interference. Mark

[Bcone1381]

Thanks Mark!