BearHawk 5 school of construction

[geraldmorrissey]

Hey Sir Newton, we have massive Canada goose formations flying around here in Seattle at pattern altitude. Plus we have hawks, ducks, crows and other flying critters. Bet you have them too. That thicker windshield could be a big plus.
Gerry
Patrol #30

[Sir Newton]

Gerald You have great what if points. As you get to know me you will find that I do not always default to the safest option.
Helps understand the LS3 install :-)

[Sir Newton]

Greetings fellow Bearhawkers
This is an important endorsement of Bob & R&B Aircraft from a very satisfied builder. (me)
Today I received lift struts & flap springs. Along with some very important ID tags! Simply very pleased & I felt like telling someone. The shipment was professionally packed up like a professional design the packaging.
Cheerios to all

[Sir Newton]

Greetings, I am overwhelmly happy to announce! Ailerons complete! Trophies for the Parts wall! Whorah!

[Frank]

As an LSA builder we nevertheless inhabit the same gene pool. So I have to ask about gusset and trailing edge flanges. One reason would be to disguise gusset edges. But maybe it's more esthetic to feature the edges? Though now I zoom in it looks like the edges are somewhat rolled? Cleveland edge forming tool? Sorry to be a pain but I am just approaching that step now!

[Sir Newton]

100% we are of the same tribe. I added pictures of the tooling used. It is a bead roller with a 5/16 radius die set. I tipped every edge so the fabric wouldn't have an edge to rub against. The edges have a more finished look. I did the same on all the exposed edges on my wing skins as well :-)

[Sir Newton]

Good Day follow BH builders, I read everything I could find on internal corrosion protection of 4030 tubing. It is encouraged in AC43 to use boiled Linseed Oil. After a review of the ALL the products I could find including long term engine preservation oils. IMHO, In the case of 4130 tubing. Linseed is still the best choice at $10 a liter. I plan to inject any part that I can with it. Bell cranks got a few drops & then I sealed the hole with weld. It does not take much oil. The oil naturally spreads and crawls its way around everything. I simply tested it by dipping some linseed oil on the fab table. Within a day it spread like a fugus over the table. I see why the old generation chose to use it. Anyways.. I can ramble on about details. After fabricating these tiny little bell cranks, I realized that these little parts are fairly challenging to fab & weld. Needing something to take pictures of & post, I included pictures of a simple jig I designed to get the job done quickly & accurately. Be sure to use backers in all the bushings during welding. The backers are not just heat sinks! There purpose is to simply take up the space so air has a more difficult time getting into contact with the interior surface of the bushings during welding. Alrighty time to get back to work. PM's are open for anyone who requires a more detailed explanation of my ramblings. Cheers ta all

[Sir Newton]

The odd picture out is the weight of my completed Aileron on the scale 11 lbs 4.3 Oz No fabric.

[Sir Newton]

Oh almost forgot, this is actually beneficial information if you read my ramblings about BH. In the attached photo DWG 11B. There is a measurement circled in RED! At 1st glance a fabulous BH fabricating warrior may see 3"7/16 When in the real BH fabricating world this measurement is 3"1/16. Pay Attention! It freaking matters! Thank me later :-)

[way_up_north]

I was taking a close look at this spot on my plans… on mine there is spot at the top of the one.. but much lighter… on my plans it looks like a “1” and not a “7”

If my plans looked like yours I would have seen a “7”…. Thank you for bringing to our attention

[way_up_north]

Good Day follow BH builders, I read everything I could find on internal corrosion protection of 4030 tubing. It is encouraged in AC43 to use boiled Linseed Oil. After a review of the ALL the products I could find including long term engine preservation oils. IMHO, In the case of 4130 tubing. Linseed is still the best choice at $10 a liter. I plan to inject any part that I can with it. Bell cranks got a few drops & then I sealed the hole with weld. It does not take much oil. The oil naturally spreads and crawls its way around everything. I simply tested it by dipping some linseed oil on the fab table. Within a day it spread like a fugus over the table. I see why the old generation chose to use it. Anyways.. I can ramble on about details. After fabricating these tiny little bell cranks, I realized that these little parts are fairly challenging to fab & weld. Needing something to take pictures of & post, I included pictures of a simple jig I designed to get the job done quickly & accurately. Be sure to use backers in all the bushings during welding. The backers are not just heat sinks! There purpose is to simply take up the space so air has a more difficult time getting into contact with the interior surface of the bushings during welding. Alrighty time to get back to work. PM's are open for anyone who requires a more detailed explanation of my ramblings. Cheers ta all

Your post reminds me of what my grandfather taught me… while watching him wind up an old clock… I asked him what was the cotton balls in a small tray on the bottom of the clock for

he explained that you put oil on the cotton balls… close the door to the clock… the oil slowly atomizes over time and coats all the gears in the clock..

I appreciate the time and effort you put in to post online.. I’ll be following your fuselage construction with great interest

[Camflyer]

Im enjoying watching your progress. You do some nice work! I cant wait to get in my shop amd make some parts!

[triumphantduke]

Oh almost forgot, this is actually beneficial information if you read my ramblings about BH. In the attached photo DWG 11B. There is a measurement circled in RED! At 1st glance a fabulous BH fabricating warrior may see 3"7/16 When in the real BH fabricating world this measurement is 3"1/16. Pay Attention! It freaking matters! Thank me later :-)

Yes, I'm enjoying to what I can glean before building. The answer might be obvious for some... but would you please elaborate on the "7" vs a "1" ? Just vertically down there's another one.

[Sir Newton]

3"7/16 is a type O & is wrong. At the very least it is poor penmanship. 3"1/16 is the correct distance for the arc required to stroke the aileron.

[triumphantduke]

ah okay, thank you. I was scratching my head thinking I might need to re-review fonts for GD&T.

[Sir Newton]

Hola fellow BearHawkers, Happy to report & post pictures in what is turning out to be a serious education in aircraft riveting. YES I said riveting. Myself & my partner in life (wife) are growing closer in understanding one & other because of this task in the rabbit hole of building a plane :-) Combined time of 29hrs to date, we have progressed fairly well imho. We have riveted RH under side of all the nose ribs & have started down the topside of the nose ribs forward of the main spar. Riveting this area is BUCKETS of fun! oh you just wait & see. I have included a few pictures for the lookie loos that enjoy the visual experience. Well.. if you have made it this far in my echo chamber of a post. I have some heart felt advice for ya. While building your scratch built nose ribs keep in mind that you have to get around the lighten hole flanging with a bucking bar! Over flanging will require you to be able to build custom bucking bars. Nothing to be afraid of, just prepared for is all. I have noticed the depth of flanging on the factory kit ribs with greater understanding now. Other then that Pound Your Rivets with Pride... on that note. adios

[Frank]

That's pretty cool, kimosabe!

[Camflyer]

Awesome! Keep it up!

[Sir Newton]

Greetings, Long time no posting. Did I ever get distracted from posting. I am still working on the BH5 at least 5-15 hrs per week. However I am sharing a picture of my distraction. I got a little drinkie with some of the older pilots on the airfield. & by the end of the evening I bought a Mustang 2 ... lol, Anyways, Now I am flying around in the solution to my next mid life crisis. Rotflol.

[Sir Newton]

Fellow builders, I have had a very exciting spring & summer this year. The BH5 project has not taken the back seat completely. I am sure to schedule time every week to get something completed. This helps me stay current on the project. Both my wings are out of the riveting jig now. All the linkages & ail/flap hinges have been fit up. Now I am ready to final fit flaps & ailerons to the wings. Make any adjustments that may need to be made. So the wings & control surfaces look professionally biult & fit.
If anyone is planning Abbotsford Airshow 2022 & would like to meet up. I will be on site for the weekend. Cheers to all. May all your winds be tailwinds.

[rodsmith]

Great looking wings

[way_up_north]

tis a thing of beauty

[Nev]

Fantastic progress !

[Sir Newton]

Good day! to the good members of the Bearhawk community. Allow me to post a product review for Carbon Concepts mobel B wing tips. I recieved my wing tips in good order. The fit & finish on the workmanship is 100% The tips come all trimmed up in light grey primer ready to be installed. The trailing edge of the tip is left open to allow a prefect fit to the wing. I happened to have a wing up on fab stands for a quick test fit. The fit is 100% imho. Have a look at the attached photos.

[Hewko]

Nice! Do they add 18 inches per side?

[Sir Newton]

Yes they do. All off 18"
My photos do not do them justice.