Closing the wings, riveting

[svyolo]

The other thread was getting into thread drift, and I couldn't find an old one to resurrect.

Closing the wings. I will take Robs and Jon's advice and rivet the wings with two people, and the other one will have more experience than me. I asked at the last Chapter meeting an RV guy that is a tech counselor at a different chapter. I asked him about riveting sequence.

I was thinking since all the skin/rib holes are already drilled/dimpled, I should distribute the rivets evenly. By that I mean 1 in the middle, one in each end, then cut those in half, and again in half, etc. Kind of like torquing the bolts on a cylinder head.

He said I should start in the middle, and "push" outward, kind of like pushing the air from under a plastic skin. Finish at the tip trailing edge. When I first heard this, I liked it. But the more I thought about it, the holes are already drilled. If I slowly push the imperfections farther and farther outboard, they will be additive, and the holes will match up less and less. Warping the wing possible.

So I think my original assumption was correct.

But, I don't know for sure.

More experienced opinions welcomed, and requested.

[tf104]

I always start from the leading edge cleco every other hole for maybe four rows you can start with the trailing edge of the skin pulled out for better access

[John Rheney]

Just as another data point from experience: I used the 'halving' method you described. Both wings came out of the jig flat and square. That was a long time ago, but I think I riveted the main spar line first to lock the skins true to the spar first then I proceeded row by row toward the trailing edge. Very happy with the results.

John

[tf104]

section five page 48 of the kit builders manual has a nice photo and a nice procedure for this

[svyolo]

I have been practicing riveting a bit the last few days. I have two flush rivet sets, one swivel with the rubber surround, and one straight. To get the swivel to set the head flush, I have to apply quite a bit of pressure to flatten out the rubber, otherwise the rivet head ends up above the piece with a little gap. The straight set doesn't have this problem.

Has anybody removed a little of the rubber so that it takes less pressure? I find the rubber makes the gun more stable, but I get inconsistent results on the manufactered side.

[Mark Goldberg]

Practice on scrap until you find what works well for you. MG

[BravoGolf]

I did remove some of the flexible material on my rivet set and it made a slight improvement. If you try to remove material make sure to remove it consistently or the rivet set won't sit square to the rivet. It is also possible that you are placing too much pressure on bucking bar, it is a fine balance. Mark's advice is spot on. It takes a lot of practice.

[davzLSA]

Another trick I learned when building the RV wings was to let the skins lay out in the sun to let them heat up just before riveting and it will help keep out any wrinkles in the skins. Also I riveted them in the order that I drilled them. When it was all done the skins were tight and straight.

[svyolo]

The guy at the chapter meeting said to heat the shop to as hot as you can stand it. The sun here isn't that strong.
The QB kit, the holes are all drilled already. If you drilled the skins at a high temp, I can see it changes things. I don't see it changes anything with the skins/wings drilled at the factory. It is, what it is. Am I wrong?

[Mark Goldberg]

With the holes already drilled, you have limited ability to change anything by heating up a skin. I have used this technique on my RV8. I used an electric blanket on the skin I was riveting that was loose. It does help in that scenario. But limited value to you. Your skins should be good with little to no oil canning. Mark

[davzLSA]

if you leave them laying out in the sun here in Alabama on a sunny day for too long you would not be able to touch them for awhile. But I know not every one is as lucky as I am!!! Roll Tide!!!

[Bcone1381]

[QUOTE=svyolo;n47533]I have two flush rivet sets, one swivel with the rubber surround, and one straight. To get the swivel to set the head flush, I have to apply quite a bit of pressure to flatten out the rubber, otherwise the rivet head ends up above the piece with a little gap. The straight set doesn't have this problem.

Has anybody removed a little of the rubber so that it takes less pressure? I find the rubber makes the gun more stable, but I get inconsistent results on the manufactered side.[/QUOTE


I have the same set.

I removed much of the rubber that sits proud of the rivet set surface with a utility knife. Mine now has three little "Feet" each about 3/16" wide that contacts the surface. The little rubber feet easily compress to allow the rivet set to touch the aluminum. I like it, but it does allow the rivet set to move when the trigger is pulled on the rivet gun and things are vibrating. If I were you I would experiment, and whittle down the rubber feet a little at a time. Some masking tape on the rivet set surface helps stabilize it too.