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  • Shop prep

    I’m wanting to get the garage ready for delivery and construction. Do I need to do anything to make delivery easier? There is a little slope up on gravel to get into the garage door.
    I’m looking for any and all recommendations on necessary tools and tools that aren’t necessary but helpful. I am installing electric infrared heaters so I have 240V power available. I’d like my tools to all be electric.
    Workbench size? I know I can use some of the shipping materials for a bench.
    Will be using oretex. Any thoughts on good tools for this process of fabric covering?
    Any organizers that have worked well for you? Pictures or links would be great.

  • #2
    My shop is similarly up slope, but we just carried the fuse and wings up and in off the truck, it wasn't bad they were pretty light.

    Here's a pic of my shop looking in.

    IMG_20191029_165302.jpg
    Dave B.
    Plane Grips Co.
    www.planegrips.com

    Comment


    • chadvmarks
      chadvmarks commented
      Editing a comment
      Looks pretty tight. Are you hanging your wings along the side with rope?

    • Archer39J
      Archer39J commented
      Editing a comment
      It definitely was before I hung the wings, I could probably fit another fuselage in there if I wanted now even with the other equipment. I used cheap ratchet straps doubled up on each side, makes it easier to raise and lower without the hassle of pulleys.

  • #3
    I am using Oratex. The Steinel heat gun they recommend is the bomb. I wouldn't think about covering with Oratex without one. The Toko iron I haven't used much. I bought it first, but quickly bought a much smaller iron like I used to use on model airplanes. ACS sells one. The Toko is a bit bulky. Apparently it is good for the final shrink where the little hobby iron probably is too small. I think a lot of cheaper irons would work for the final shrink, but you need a IR thermometer to verify temp.

    If you still have the wing crates they have a lot of useful metal in them. I made a wing rotisserier/wing lift, fuselage stand (11" tall, adjustable at the gear leg attach)), and some adjustable height wing supports to drill the wings, and reattach them later by myself. It is really handy to have a bunch of 1" tube, and 1" steel strips around to make various jibs, etc. I still have a bunch left.

    Comment


    • chadvmarks
      chadvmarks commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks for the recommendation. I’m really curious how the oratex comes together. I still need to gat back to talk with them. How much did you end up ordering? Are they able to send practice scraps?

    • svyolo
      svyolo commented
      Editing a comment
      They recommended 31 or 32 linear yards, which are 75" wide. I can't remember for sure. It gets expensive ordering more. They won't ship folded, only rolled on 75" rolls. From Germany.

  • #4
    Shop Prep security issue... Make sure you do not give your dog access to your work area
    patroldrawing-dog.jpg

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    • #5
      You can buy a duplicate set of plans if you need more sheets.

      Comment


      • #6
        I bought a duplicate set and it was only $35.

        Comment


        • #7
          -A Bosch 12V cordless drill is small and was recommended by Rob Caldwell. I got one and almost now my air drill sits unused.
          -An artist portfolio is a common item we bearhawkers use to protect the plans. Everyone visitor who has seen mine raves about it. I think Itoyo is the maker.
          -You wont need a large compressor to assemble the kit until the end when Painting the wings. I have a small DeWalt pancake compressor that is adequate but it scared me every time it turned on because its so sudden and so loud. My dog was petrified. I replaced it with a California air tools compressor. Its small, light and very quiet. It will run a drill, rivet gun, etc just fine.
          -Don't buy things for a job that is years down the road like fabric covering supplies. Wait on those.
          -You'll need an angle drill of some kind. I hav an attachment that goes on to my drill and use 1/4" threaded drill bits.
          - Include the The Yared Store as a place to shop for your tools. Also Aircraft Tool.
          -Rivet gun, Rivet SQueezer, the dies and sets to go with them.
          -A good digital caliper is essential. I got a mitoyo digital caliper off ebay for a good price and its surpasses my HF caliper.
          -Bucking bars....get one small tungsten bucking bar. Pricey but it will be your favorite. Tungsten density is at least twice that of iron...about that of Gold.
          -tubing bender, tubing cutter, 37Degree flaring tool.
          -Deburring tools
          -Hole FInder
          -Reamers for 3/16, 1/2, 5/16 and 3/8" holes.
          -Files.
          -a portable band saw with a stand that makes it into a table top band saw. Rob Caldwell again....Watch Rob's video about tools....its good. Get what Rob gets.
          -I bought dill bits a dozen at a time from Pan American Tool...colbalt jobber bits. You'll go thru lots of #40, 3/32. Fewer #30, 1/4, 5/32, 3/8. I don't feel a need for a big huge set of all numbered bits and al lettered bits and all dimensional drill bits. Pan American bits seem to last long and each one has its size stamped on the stem.
          -BoeLube for drilling. 1.6 oz solid push tube. One small container is like $4.50 and makes your bits last longer, drills quicker, (noticeably so) and you can build 4 aircraft before it runs out. It will save you money on drill bits if your like me. (I don't sharpen drill bits, I replace them.)
          Last edited by Bcone1381; 08-12-2020, 02:23 PM.
          Brooks Cone
          Southeast Michigan
          Patrol #303, Kit build

          Comment


          • JimParker256
            JimParker256 commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm with Brooks – whenever I try to sharpen a drill bit, it just gets more dull. The Yard Store jobber cobalt bits are both cost-perspective and seem to last a good bit longer than I expect any drill bit to last around me... LOL
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