Bearhawk Aircraft Bearhawk Tailwheels LLC Eric Newton's Builder Manuals Bearhawk Plans Bearhawk Store

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Stringer fastening - Pro and Con

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Stringer fastening - Pro and Con

    Looks like there are a variety of ways to fasten the kit provided Al stringers to the "U" standoffs and brackets welded to the fuselage.

    (1) Cotter pins seem to be a good method - light and relatively easy.
    (2) Rivets raise the question in my mind of whether to use a rivet on each side of the "U" and are there short pull rivets that are short enough to fit in the space between the stringer wall space and likely there will be an interference issue with opposing rivets.
    (3) Screw and nut would work well but is heavier than a simple cotter pin.

    So, I'm leaning toward the cotter pin solution, but would like to hear any other thoughts on the methods or techniques others have used. My single brain "brainstorming" could use some group assist!

  • #2
    Cotter pins are totally adequate. Only force applied is the curvature of the stringers and that is counteracted by the taught fabric tending to push the stringers into the standoffs.

    Comment


    • DBeaulieu
      DBeaulieu commented
      Editing a comment
      Worth using s/s cotters...?

  • #3
    I used pull rivets but did not put one on each side of the "U" just one rivet with the appropriate grip length to accommodate the thickness of the "U" and stringer thickness

    Comment


    • #4
      I also used 1/8th in AL pull rivets. They worked great and I don't have to worry about catching a chunk of skin on a cotter pin while reaching under a floorboard. YMMV

      20240111_141746.jpg 20240111_141700.jpg

      Comment


      • #5
        I must say I giggled a bit when I read “cotter pins”

        Rivets here
        N678C
        https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojec...=7pfctcIVW&add
        Revo Sunglasses Ambassador
        https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ0...tBJLdV8HB_jSIA

        Comment


        • #6
          I like the Burt Munroe approach with the cotter pins but the rivets look pretty fool proof. I have seen homebuilt biplanes with safety wire holding the stringers in the standoffs. Seemed to work fine.

          Comment


          • #7
            Decided to go with 6-32 stainless machine screws for stringer attachment as this airplane wil eventually be on floats. I do have an issue to resolve with some of the double tabs that the stringers terminate in. In this picture, this is the top stringer on the right side of a Patrol which terminates against the forward baggage door former. I have no idea how to drill in such close quarters. Pancake drill with stubby bit doesn't fit. Could notch the tabs and use safety wire? Open as to how others may have resolved this...appreciate all thoughts!

            Dave from Maine

            stringer bracket by baggage door.jpg

            Comment


            • Collin Campbell
              Collin Campbell commented
              Editing a comment
              I'm trying to figure out where this situation would occur. I don't ever remember a situation where I couldn't drill the tabs from one side or the other. The stringers all should pass on the outside of the tubing except at the very tail (where they bend inward and become flush with the outside of the tubes). BTW,That tab in the picture looks like it should belong at the tail. The stringers at the baggage area should all blend into the formers at the cargo door, which would put the stringers outside of the tubes, making that tab useless...Just my thoughts. BTW;, I used cotter pins in the tabs, Collin

          • #8
            Not sure if it would work, but I have 10 or 12" long #40 drill bit....It will flexes quite a bit. I forgot how forgot how I got that one secured though..

            Can you rivet a piece of AL to the inside face of the stinger to hold it on the desired position on that receiver clip?.
            Brooks Cone
            Southeast Michigan
            Patrol #303, Kit build

            Comment


            • #9
              One option would be to use a Dremel engraving bit. It's a bit with a tiny ball on the end and you should be able to make a couple of holes in the tab, top and bottom even at an oblique angle. Once the holes are drilled, mark the location on the stringer with a 90deg scribe, take the stringer out, drill as normal and then put it back in place with a 6-32 screw and nut.

              20240117_132511.jpg 20240117_133155.jpg

              Comment


              • #10
                There are a couple on the 4 place like that as well. I used a 12' long drill bit and drilled it at whatever angle i could get. Definitely not straight. I secured the stringer in place somehow, probably tape or zip ties but I can't remember, and drilled through the tabs and the stringer in one go. I used cotter pins which work well because the head isn't much larger than the diameter of the hole so the hole can be close to the edge of the tab and not cause interference with the fabric.
                4-Place QB kit #111. First flight May 2022.
                IO-470 - 260hp

                Comment


                • rodsmith
                  rodsmith commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I also used that method successfully.

              • #11
                To expand on this....a pop rivet can be installed with the tool on an angle by inserting the rivet mandrel into a hole of a small wedge. The rivet tool head contacts the small wedge in place of the top of the rivet. I'd say up to a 30 degree offset works nice. But if the hole on an angle gets drilled, man, safety it in place with some .040 wire.
                Brooks Cone
                Southeast Michigan
                Patrol #303, Kit build

                Comment


                • #12
                  Old school method.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • #13
                    Okay, thanks for all the ideas...this small test piece (see pic) is what I think I may try! Dremel tool to slightly notch sides of the tabs, slight notch on stringer on small facings to "countersink" the safety wire and be done! This particular stringer termination is the only problem child of the bunch. The bottom of the window frame will be riveted into this stringer area and will help secure/stabilize the stringer as well. Does this seem reasonable...any concerns? Feel free to comment please.

                    Last stringer related question for now... I have the stringers fitted and pilot drilled to #40 along with the tabs. Any reason not to final size drill and fix in place the top and bottom stringers? I can see leaving the side stringers off while working on the floor and other stuff inside the fuselage. Looking for any insight. Thanks so much!!

                    Stringer safety.jpg

                    Dave from Maine

                    Comment


                    • #14
                      Your solution looks good! The only concern I would have is if the safety wire would be tight enough to keep it from sliding side to side in the bracket. The force applied to the stringer is parallel to the bracket, not at a 90deg. angle or pushing it into the bottom of the U bracket.

                      As far as stringer final installation goes, I fit everything then would wait until you're ready to put on fabric. It's amazing how small things get in the way sometimes! My .02 cents...

                      Comment


                      • #15
                        Originally posted by DBeaulieu View Post
                        Okay, thanks for all the ideas...this small test piece (see pic) is what I think I may try! Dremel tool to slightly notch sides of the tabs, slight notch on stringer on small facings to "countersink" the safety wire and be done! This particular stringer termination is the only problem child of the bunch. The bottom of the window frame will be riveted into this stringer area and will help secure/stabilize the stringer as well. Does this seem reasonable...any concerns? Feel free to comment please.

                        That looks to me like "Its suppose to be done that way." (aka an industry best practice)

                        Originally posted by DBeaulieu View Post

                        Last stringer related question for now... I have the stringers fitted and pilot drilled to #40 along with the tabs. Any reason not to final size drill and fix in place the top and bottom stringers? I can see leaving the side stringers off while working on the floor and other stuff inside the fuselage. Looking for any insight. Thanks so much!!


                        I Don't know. My thinking is .... Final size drill them, Fix them in place on the fuselage with Clecos, and build on so they are removable. Then I may prevent a build blunder by (for example) installing something that gets in the way or I can use them to help secure something like an internal antenna. I think I final secured mine with rivets right before covering.
                        Brooks Cone
                        Southeast Michigan
                        Patrol #303, Kit build

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X