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I drilled a #40 hole in the inboard and outboard flap "Bearing" tubes. For the inboard tube I also drilled a 1/2" hole in the bottom skin for access to the little hole in the tube, which I will close out with a plastic hole plug. ​ ​

I used these in a couple of tight corners. ​

At long last, I have both wings all closed up and ready to move to storage. That'll make room for the fuselage in the garage. I'll be starting by surveying the work done by the previous builder. It's on the gear with doors on and flight controls partially rigged, firewall in place and what looks...

For drilling aluminum I use low cost cobalt bits from Amazon, and treat them as consumable. I’ve been happy with this brand. Yardstore has a great reference table for bit sizes, which I refer to daily. I’ve used a #27 bit as a clearance hole for a #6 screw when installing nut plates. It’s a...

Here's what I finally came up with for aileron bellcrank travel stops. I used MS27405-6 "Type A" clamps (these are readily available) and 1/2” x 1/8” steel bar, gas welded.​ There's a bit of clear shrink tube over the tabs to provide some cushioning.

I cast the aileron balance weights using the poured lead method. I had some lead bricks laying around from a previous employer, so no shortage of raw material. I was pleasantly surprised that a cheap second hand electric hot plate generated enough heat to melt the required amount.

I'm planning to use the FlyLEDs system exactly as you describe: Landing/taxi/position/strobe forward/side facing in the front of the wingtips. Aft-facing white LEDs on the trailing edge of each wingtip. The wingtips are still rough but here are a couple of photos. Be sure to talk to Paul at...

Yes, a Vise Grip dimpler is key to these tight spaces. When I realized I needed one I made a "home brew" 1/8" version by drilling and countersinking a bit of scrap steel (harvested from a wing crate) for the female side and then MIG welding it to the nastiest pair of Vise Grips I had. I notched...

Following the plans for my 4-place, I'm trying (and struggling) to use flush stainless steel rivets on my flap and aileron trailing edges. I'm using Cherry CCC-42 stainless rivets (w/stainless mandrel), but it seems the force required to break the stainless mandrel is so high that it's...

I've encountered a puzzle with my 4-place A-Model flap hinges. Background info: Kit was manufactured in 2006. The hinge plates (sheet metal parts that bolt up to the flap spar) were delivered cut, bent, and primed, but without any holes drilled in them. The plans call for MS21152-2 rod end...

After pondering this thread, I ended up just using an AN742-D16 clamp on the outlet bung of each tank (with No-Ox applied to all mating surfaces). Equivalent to post #28 but saved me a bit of fab time vs making my own clamp out of scrap (which I have plenty of!). :D .

On my 4 place I had to bush down the aileron pulley at the strut attach bracket. Not sure if that is applicable to the patrol though. ​

Same as Steve W, I use K1000-6 and dimple the rivet holes on the legs with a squeezer. For the #27 hole in the inspection ring (the clearance hole for the screw), I have followed what the factory did on my QB wings back in 2006, on the one inspection ring which was factory-installed. They just...

The pulleys that are with the very old QB kit I have are marked with a Lube Date of 2003 (yup, 20 years old, see photo). Does anyone have experience with the "Shelf life" of the bearings in these pulleys? They appear to have sealed bearings. I attempted to re-lubricate one of them: I was able to...

Epilogue: It took way longer than I expected but I got one cover done. Drilling out all the existing rivets worked great. The only significant challenge was that each rivet location, when updrilled to #27, has the remnants of the dimple that accommodated the AN426 rivet head which forms residual...

Hey Brooks, On my A-model the brackets that attached the outboard end of the wing to the crate are all 1/4 thick and roughly 2" wide. The one at the main spar is T-shaped (welded), and the one at the rear spar has a 90 degree bend. The plywood that sandwiched the ribs is roughly 3/4 inch. There...

Here's some photos of how I attached my wings to the rotisserie I built from wing crate material (inspired by the photos in the builder's manual). Root end: following the crate design, I used one 10-32 machine screw through the hole at the end of each spar. The MDF plates act as anti-rotation...

Hi all, I'm puzzled about locating the screws/nut plates for the aux tank covers on my A-model wings. The build instructions say to position them "...so they fall midway between the existing skin rivets (to give room for nut plates, etc.)," It seems if I do this I won't have screws at the...

Trying to wake this thread up... Today I finished up the nutplates for the right main tank. Lotta nutplates! Moving on to the right aux tank now...

I ended up going the "Buy" approach for sight gauges, following the guidance from the builder's manuals (old version and the updated guidance at https://bearhawk.tips/3609). Here's an abridged version of the story: What I purchased: McMaster 1106K24 (High-Pressure Oil-Level Indicator, Aluminum...