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  • Plate nuts

    I can get a great deal on k5000 floating plate nuts. Other than being a little wider can anyone see a reason not to use these plate nuts where space permits?

  • #2
    I can think of no reason not to use them, if space permits. Go for it Gary!

    Bill

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    • #3
      ditto

      Speaking of nutplates, I always wondered how come #6's were twice as expensive as #8's. Wish I could find a good deal on #6's.

      Doug
      Scratch building Patrol #254

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      • #4
        Van's has K1000-6 for $0.45 each and K1100-06 for $0.64 each.

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        • #5
          Thanks guys. I haven't taken the time to figure out how many I may need. Fuel tank covers, wing and tail Fairings, wing access covers? Anyone counted them out yet give or take 50? Thanks again

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          • Bcone1381
            Bcone1381 commented
            Editing a comment
            My count for the Patrol was 425 #6 nut plates. I also got twenty one lug nut plates, and twenty floating nut plates. The floaters I got to compensate for my installation errors incase a standard nut plate didn't quite fit right. 80 for the fuel tanks, 272 for inspection covers (right now that seems like too many to me maybe it include wing tips), 8 nose bowl cowl, 40-boot cowl, 15 windshield, maybe the rest were for the floor boards and rear bulkhead. Spruce had them for .51 each less a 20% discount for going to an EAA sport air workshop.

          • Bdflies
            Bdflies commented
            Editing a comment
            I don't know how many, but a lot. I distinctly remember thinking that I should invest in whatever company makes those things, cause I boosted their revenue numbers...

            Bill

        • #6
          Originally posted by Bearhawkdoc View Post
          Van's has K1000-6 for $0.45 each and K1100-06 for $0.64 each.
          Thanks, I forget about Vans selling parts, and I can just go pick them up.

          Doug
          Scratch building Patrol #254

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          • #7
            Originally posted by DRLPatrol View Post

            Thanks, I forget about Vans selling parts, and I can just go pick them up.

            Doug
            That is in fact where I buy my nut plates. Nice to swing by and avoid shipping.

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            • #8
              Bought all of my #6 nut plates from Vans- and then used Cleaveland Tool close quarter dimple die in squeezer to dimple them for countersunk rivets. End result was pretty nice.

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              • #9
                One downside of floating nutplates is that the threaded area can spin in the rigid riveted on part. It doesn't happen all that often, but it SUCKS when it does happen. Usually when removing a screw that has been on an exterior access panel that has been exposed to weather and hasn't been off for quite a while. Also normally happens when you are uncomfortably hot with the sun baking you, or it is cold as h@ll and the wind has you chilled to the bone. Oh ya, they are also quite a bit heavier than a fixed nutplate.
                Joe
                Scratch-building 4-place #1231
                Almost Wyoming region of Nebraska

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                • #10
                  Does anyone use countersunk screws on all the nutplates?

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                  • #11
                    Originally posted by svyolo View Post
                    Does anyone use countersunk screws on all the nutplates?
                    So far everywhere I’ve used #6 nut plates they’ve been countersunk. I believe this will be the case everywhere.
                    Dave B.
                    Plane Grips Co.
                    www.planegrips.com

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                    • #12
                      Anyplace in the breeze use C/S screws where you can. Mark

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                      • #13
                        That was my assumption.

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                        • #14
                          I am coming up empty on finding the right length of screws for the plate nuts. MS24693-S26 are 3/8 of an inch. Are 1/4 inch ones long enough? Can't find a reference anywhere on the required length of plate nut screws.

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                          • #15
                            SV, you need to consider the thickness of the nutplate tab, plus the thickness of the material being attached, plus thickness of the washer you'll be using and finally allow for a couple of threads extending past the nutplate. I'm pretty sure I used 3/8" for nearly everything, except maybe the floorboards, where double thickness .032" were attached. I used a lot of nylon washers, that are pretty thick. To make it easy and satisfy yourself that you've used the right fastener, put together a mockup joint.

                            Bill

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