Rod end bearings rivets

[DesertBearhawk]

I just did my second set of these. As stated I use a red loctite to set the rod-ends into position and get evey thing lined up. After the red loctite has set (it sets very quickly but I leave it over night) I cross drill the rod-end/hinge socket assembly and I rivet the rod ends into place. I would never just use the loctite to hold the rod-ends, that's an accident waiting to happen. AN470--5's get it done. I riveted mine this way: I got a piece of 1"x 2" steel bar thats about 3 inches long and on the center of the short end I drilled a hole for my 470 rivet set (squeezer die) then I set that vertically on a 1/2 6"x 6" plate. Then with the spousal unit holding the hinge assembly with the rivet head in the set, I back riveted the bucktail with a 3x gun. Took all of about 5 minutes to do all 5 hinge assemblies.

Hope this makes sense, no need to make more out of it that necessary.

[Gary Wallace]

My take is that originally the rivets or bolts are the only mechanical means to secure rod ends into hinges. The loctite is only a means to simplify alignment and ease of securing mechanically the rod ends into hinges.

[S Lathrop]

I am going to suggest a way better product to use than Loctite. Loctite is not intended to be a permanent adhesive. I assemble structures where I am attaching aluminum panels to a steel tube structure. I intend that the aluminum panels become a part to the steel structure. Rivets are alone are not nearly strong enough to effectively bond the aluminum panels to the steel structures. Standard practice in my industry is to use a structural adhesive on the mating surfaces. This more than doubles the strength of the rivets alone. We actually test the assemblies for torsional strength and when the bonding brakes down, we have lost up to half the strength and not a single rivet has failed.

Loctite 9460 Hysol is a structural adhesive and this is what I have used for decades with great results. Given the surface area between the rod end and the tube you are fitting in into, the Hysol will be strong enough to almost not need the rivets.

[Gary Wallace]

Red loctite, -5 rivets and a shiney hammer. All is perfect. Thanks all for the input

[fairchild]

I have used my hydraulic press to set 3/16 steel rivets. That should work if you can get the parts in there. I have a steel block with a .401 hole drilled into it to hold a set.
For some reason I have never liked the idea of locktite. maybe ok on a fishing rod..... :-)
Tim

[Gary Wallace]

Just used red loctite. Sitting overnight. Thanks all

[Chris In Milwaukee]

Desert Bearhawk (if you’re a Facebook follower) just said the same thing. He uses red loctite, aligns everything, lets it cure to hold everything in place, then drills them. Handy tip, methinks.

[Ray Strickland]

That’s the way I remember it, too.

[whee]

Is red locktite not the right stuff? I don’t have Eric’s manual here but I’m pretty sure we used red locktite based on info from Eric’s manual.

[marcusofcotton]

Anyone know off hand if red loctite will do? And a couple rivets!

It's only a few dollars to invest in the right stuff, and then you know.

[Ray Strickland]

You can also use an AN3 clevis or regular bolt.

[Gary Wallace]

Anyone know off hand if red loctite will do? And a couple rivets!

[Archer39J]

Yeah I figured I'd just be hitting it with a hammer when the time came per Newton's manual.

[whee]

My squeezer would not do them. I think Eric addresses this in his manual. The lock tight is what hold the ends in place anyways.

[jaredyates]

Can a 3000# squeezer do a AD5 rivet? I recall mine says it's only good for AD4 and smaller.

There is one easy way to find out... If it turns out not to, I once used a polished ball peen hammer to form the shop head on some 3/16 rivets. I drilled a 3/16 hole in the anvil of the vice, put the squeezer set in that hole, and a few wacks later all was good.