Aileron counter balance tube

[bestbearhawk1231]

Hi guys, how is everyone filling the aluminum tube with lead? The melting the lead with a torch seems like there is a lot of bad stuff that will go wrong if your luck is like mine...then their is the fact that 3/4" is a small target to hit when pouring molten metal. I will be doing it alone, so I won't have anyone to keep the tube warm with a propane torch so I am pretty sure that the lead will solidify part way down the tube and I will not be able to get enough weight in the tube. If I mix some lead shot with thinned down epoxy would I be able to get enough weight in it so I could simply drill out some to balance the aileron? Any and all thoughts would be appreciated. I am not to this point yet but it has been in the back of my mind for a few months now. Thanks!

[Enewton57]

I have done it both ways, I used melted lead with my 4-place Bearhawk and I used lead pellets mixed with Epoxy for the Patrol. Both ways have their challenges. You are correct in saying that the melted lead can be dangerous. You are also correct in saying that the tube should be preheated as you pour the molten lead. I tried it the first time without heat and it did cause a plug part way down so the tube didn't fill all the way. Also, yes you need help and a correct way of melting and pouring the lead. I used a heavy cast iron pot and large ladle with a spout edge on the ladle to focus the molten lead as I poured it. With the molten lead, the pipe was too heavy and I ended up drilling some out. Not easy to do because the lead gums up your drill bit and burns up drill motors. I found with the lead pellets and epoxy, the filled tube was too light. I used the tiniest lead pellets I could find and kept tamping it down in the tube to assure no air pockets, but it still came in too light to completely balance the aileron. The solution, if you want a completely balanced aileron using the Epoxy/lead mixture, is to fill a short tube and fit it between the hingepocket and root end on the aileron. So you end up with two filled tubes per aileron, the long main tube and a short one. I talked with Bob, and he said that I should just leave it a little light and use the single tube. It saves weight and is sufficient to prevent flutter.

[David Weber]

I got al at lowrs and they had solid steel rod that slipped in 3 feet...weighs right at 4 lbs...balance of tube with lead to get the 5.4.

[markphillips1228]

I have not done it yet so not sure of results but here is what I'm going to try. I have a bucket of moist sand I am going to use a wooden dowel that fits into my steel tube to push into the sand to make a hole. In theory I should be able to pour molten lead into the hole, let it harden. The sand will brush off after its cool. A little sanding and the lead should drop into my tube. A little epoxy to hold them in place and I should be done. I will send pics after I do it.

[marcusofcotton]

I recall reading recently about bad things happening when casting with sand that was not first dried.
Mark J

[DesertBearhawk]

I use lead to balance mode turbine jet aircraft, I find it easy to use. I cast little lead ingots and fit them where I need them. I melt my lead with a MAP gas torch in a old coffee can and I pour the melted lead into balsa wood forms....yep thats right, 3/32 balsa wood forms...works perfect. So I am thinking, what if you were to make a mold out of wood and cast your lead for the balance tube. I envision taking some 1" MDF planks and using a router table and a half radius bit route half of the circle into each piece of MDF, key the two pieces together and then just pour the molten lead into the form, once it cools just pop it apart and you should have a solid lead bar that you can slide right into the Aileron balance tube.

Thoughts?

[X'N]

Why not just heat the tube up before pouring in the Lead? Making a mold seems much more complicated than it needs to be IMO.

[Battson]

Nevermind a mold, overcomplicating a simple job! I just heated up the lead til it was good and hot (no breathing the vapors) using an old pan and a coal BBQ, then made a funnel at the top of the tube out of scrap metal. Plugged the bottom with a wooden cork, and poured away - pouring fast but steady so it didnt set too early. Stick a few rivets into the lead to stop it moving around after it works loose. No worries.

[DesertBearhawk]

The only reason I suggested a mold is there was some concern in having the lead cool before the tube was filled.....

[Enewton57]

I found that heating the tube before-hand helps prevent the lead from cooling and forming a plug. Just get it good and hot but be careful to not melt it.

[markphillips1228]

I know that making a mold seems like extra work. But I really don't think it will be bad. I am always working alone so I have to make some jobs have 1 extra step to get them done. Clamps are my best friend for lots of jobs. Acts like 4 hands.

[Jflyer]

I know that making a mold seems like extra work. But I really don't think it will be bad. I am always working alone so I have to make some jobs have 1 extra step to get them done. Clamps are my best friend for lots of jobs. Acts like 4 hands.

How do you rivet the wing skins alone?

[markphillips1228]

when it comes to jobs like that I am pretty sure I'll be able to grab somebody at my airport to help out. There are advantages to being out in my hanger with a refrigerator stocked with cold beverages.

[X'N]

Mark, I have a little coleman stove, pots N stuff to cook lead with if you want to borrow it or swing down and I'll help ya

[marcusofcotton]

John, Naples FL wrote:
"How do you rivet the wing skins alone?"

Phillip Johnson was at Oshkosh this year with his Bearhawk, he said he riveted his wing skins by himself. I'm not there yet, seems like it'd be a real challenge.

Mark J