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  • Overdue Update Continues

    Well I didn't get a lot completed on the plane this weekend but I got somethings done in the shop that I think will help down the road. My shop light s were getting dim so I changed from florescent to LED 8500 Lums. It's an all together kind of light. Not that I'm getting older and my eyes get tired quicker, Nothing like that! Forget to mention the near catastrophe while putting up the lights, while moving the plane back into place the tail wheel fell of the stand and the v on the stand caught the tail wheel spring. THANK GOD or things would have got ugly quick. I know I should be more careful but this plane has set on that stand like this for 2yrs.

    With the help of my wonderful assistant our girl is now proudly wearing her registration number N324WC, November 324 Whisky Charlie.
    I also visited some of the local airports checking out the hanger situation. Not a whole lot of luck.

    IMG_0198.JPGIMG_0197.JPGIMG_0199.JPG
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Thats a good looking airplane, thanks for sharing the pix

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    • #3
      I will second that for LED lights. As I got older I finally needed to use reading glasses, but discovered it depends on what type of light. Sunlight I can read a newspaper unassisted. Fluorescent lights you might as well just turn them off. I am blind as a bat with FL lights.

      LED's are almost as good as sunlight for my eyes. They make great work lights.

      Comment


      • Sebastian
        Sebastian commented
        Editing a comment
        I’ve noticed that also. I can still pass the eye exams but let my eyes get tired and my close vision needs help from a pair of readers. This getting old sucks. 😡😡

    • #4
      Got a few more things finished on the plane. After getting the right mag installed and timed I was able to install the oil cooler, filter w/lines that I had mocked up over a year ago. As those of you that are building know things need to go on the plane in a certain order or things get to tight to work. After that I put the engine controls back in. Also been sitting on the bench for a long period waiting for the right time to install hopefully for the last time. Adding some pictures to show what was accomplished.
      IMG_0210.JPGIMG_0203.JPGIMG_0208.JPGIMG_0207.JPGIMG_0206.JPGIMG_0209.JPGIMG_0213.JPG

      Comment


      • JimParker256
        JimParker256 commented
        Editing a comment
        I love your oil filter setup! Did you also install a "quick-drain" fitting at the oil sump? If so, changing oil and filter will be quick and easy, with very little mess! Really well-organized and neat FWF! Makes it all look so simple, when we all know it is not... Looking really good, Sebastian!

    • #5
      Yes I did Jim. You can see it in the picture of the throttle connection. Thank you for the comment.

      Comment


      • #6
        Some of y'all know I've been doing battle trying to find steel fittings to satisfy my DAR around fuel & oil lines. I got it finished today. I also installed my panel all but a few screws since I didn't order enough the first time. Also need some more labeling.See the pictures. The panel has two Garmin G3x displays and a TruTrac autopilot with it's own artificial horizon. Everything else runs remotely thru the G3x.
        IMG_0235.JPGIMG_0234.JPGIMG_0236.JPGIMG_0242.JPGIMG_0244.JPGIMG_0245.JPGIMG_0233.JPG
        Attached Files

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        • #7
          I kind of wondered about using steel fittings forward of the firewall but it seemed like there were differing opinions. My individual fuel lines that came with my SDS EFI are braided SS with SS fittings but that was all I was planning on. Am I missing something, or is it just your DAR's personal opinion?

          Comment


          • #8
            This may very well be my DAR. Not saying it is a bad idea but it sure caused me some grief. He also doesn't like ty-wraps but when I sent pictures and ask how I would do the supporting of wiring and lines that I had done using lacing he backed away from some of that opinion. I'm still going to change out some of the ty-wraps that are holding things to the engine mount.
            I really didn't understand the ty-wrap issue after I got these pictures of the engine compartment of a new PC12 from a friend.
            IMG_0237[1].JPGIMG_0238[1].JPGIMG_0239[1].JPGIMG_0240[1].JPG

            Comment


            • svyolo
              svyolo commented
              Editing a comment
              After talking to a few EAA chapter tech counselors, my assumption is DAR's will be the same, and not that different than the rest of us. Their opinion's (and mine) are colored by their own experience. I was hoping they were more standardized, but my fear was the opposite, and the more I learn the more I believe that is the case.

              Is there a term called "DAR shopping"? Sort of like shopping for your Doc for your FAA medical if you fly commercially. I won't get into the latter, but if they have a bad rep, they don't get much repeat business.

            • svyolo
              svyolo commented
              Editing a comment
              Your wiring looks great.

            • davzLSA
              davzLSA commented
              Editing a comment
              It a very neat looking install. The only thing about it I would be worried about is all the plastic wire ties in the engine compartment. After awhile the heat will make the plastic very brittle and they will break. An alternative would be a loom designed for engine compartment duty or lacing cord. Just my 2 cents, but its really an awesome looking install.

          • #9
            that is a good looking and neat install, good work man!!

            Comment


            • #10
              What was the concern? Sharp edges fraying wire, likely to break, other?
              ​Christopher Owens, EAA #808438
              Project "Expedition"
              Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans #991
              Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans #P313
              Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

              Comment


              • #11
                I have pasted what the email to me said on the fittings and ty-wraps. So you guys can decide if there are valid points. I felt he does try to back up his thoughts.

                Good Morning CJ,


                Looked at your pictures and read your email, In my opinion on fuel & oil line hoses where they attach is under a lot of load even tho when new they reduce the vibration thru the hose but after they age from heat and time in service they take a set so to speak and the load increased. I would not use aluminum fitting in stressed area especially on critical fuel and oil lines ! I also would not use Teflon tape on either fuel or oil lines if there is any improper Teflon tape rapping of fitting and the tape enters the fuel or oil lines it can restrict the flow of both and in both cases this has happened. One more thing the use of tie raps in heat environments they will in time contract and cut thru a wire and in some cases where attached to engine mount has grooved the 4130 tube opening a place to start a crack in mount.

                Comment


                • Sebastian
                  Sebastian commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Brooks what I did in those areas was plastic tubing around the lined and ty-wrap over that. But only in the areas for rub purposes.

                • svyolo
                  svyolo commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I was just looking through ULPower's install manual and noticed they used aluminum fittings for their fuel and oil lines. They are certified engines.
                  I am planning on using tie wraps pretty much everywhere FWF. I will use high temp T wraps on the engine with chafe protection on the wires.

                  There were several long threads on VAF on steel vs AL fittings FWF and tie wraps. I decided on AL fittings and tie wraps.

                • Sebastian
                  Sebastian commented
                  Editing a comment
                  I'd say go for it with the aluminum. I was looking at some older certified planes today and they all had some aluminum in fuel and oil system. I really think it just may be my DAR.

              • #12
                Sebastian, just noticed the picture of your panel, that is a beautiful job with the carbon fiber!

                Comment


                • Sebastian
                  Sebastian commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Thank you sir. After seeing pictures and video of your plane I feel that that's a real complement.

              • #13
                Hi the tyraps will grove the steel tubing over time. You can slide a sleeve of shrink tube on them or some type of chafe guard underneath them . There are new tyraps out there that have rubber strips on them. I think Mike Patey sells them too

                Comment


                • #14
                  Ok I have a little more to report. Since my last update I have got both mags installed and plugs wires ran. This includes the E-Mag. I have powered up the panel " both G3Xs and the TruTrac " came up just fine. I have turned the plane in my shop and have attached the wings, installed the flaps and adjusted the cables, installed the prop except for torquing and safety wiring, installed the ailerons but need to finish adjusting the cables, and put the scat tubing on for the cabin heat, carb heat and mag cooling. also put a liner in my window frames.
                  I don't think that's to bad for social distancing.
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                  Attached Files

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                  • svyolo
                    svyolo commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Nice, looks awesome. I wish I was doing the same. I am still stuck on the other side of the planet.

                • #15
                  OK I have a question. I purchased the fiberglass parts for the wing strut that Bob makes. The bottom piece has a split in it so it can be opened and fit around the bottom of the wing strut bu....t the top piece does not. I thought it was to be put on the strut during attachment to the wing but it will not fit over the bolts on the strut. I am assuming that I need to cut it for it to slip around the strut then use metal screws to fasten it to the bottom of the wing. I have attached some pictures of the piece with a line of blue tape showing where I'm thinking of cutting the piece. If someone has used these please let me know if I am about to screw up. IMG_0372.JPGIMG_0373.JPG . IMG_0370.JPGIMG_0371.JPG

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