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When tightening up the bolt on my aileron bell crank, the wide area washers are binding and the bell crank locks up. Is it acceptable to use a crown nut and a pin here instead f a nyloc? I can tighten all the way to snug to allow free movement of the bell crank and safety the nut with a split pin?
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Bradrock,It's required to use a castle nut and cotter pin on all rotating parts. It sounds to me like the center spacer between the bearings may be to short.
Charles King #501 4-plc -
Try slipping a AN960-10L (thin) washer up under the AN970 (wide) and see if it helps.
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Having the same issue, will try the AN960-10L method. Also I noticed after pressing the bearings into the bellcrank that the center bushing was not solidly captured by the inner races of the bearings. Don't believe I can press the bearing in any further. Do I need to drive out one bearing and make a slightly longer bushing spacer? Thanks for any ideas/suggestions
DaveComment
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It depends how tight you want to torque the nut.
You don't necessarily need to torque every bolt up to the maximum torque range, but if you do tension it right up - you need the spacer to be a decent fit so the bearings don't get pressed out of shape.
I would add, these bearings are under a fair bit of tension, and you don't want slop in the system, to you probably do want to make sure everything is snug to begin with - it will only wear in and get looser with use. So if its all the same, press out a bearing by carefully pushing on the outer race, and make a longer spacer.Last edited by Battson; 09-21-2023, 08:51 PM.Comment
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Lots of WD40 and slow steady pressure, if you have a gentle press, otherwise tapping with a rubber mallot using a dowel, rod, or even a blunt screwdriver with lots of tape and carboard over the end. Only apply pressure to the outer race, careful not the damage the seals. Work your way slowly around the circumference. Small movements is key, don't let it come out one side at a time i.e. on an angle.
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A socket that is the same diameter or close will work to press a bearing out also. Battson is very right about protecting the seal and even pressure so the bearing does not come out at an angle.Roger
QB Companion C-9
N51RKComment
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Well, I ended up removing the bearings...just couldn't get the bellcrank to move as easily and smoothly as desired. Used a pin punch to get the first one out (ruined) and a socket for the other one (saved).Probably a rookie mistake, but when I pressed them in, I failed to clean out the paint from the inside and inner lip of the bellcrank tube that the outer race of the bearings sit on. I suspect it made the bearings sit a bit proud and consequently distorted the bearings when torqued down. BTW, all components spec'd out within a couple thousands IAW the plans. Second attempt after cleaning and new bearings resulted in notably better results. Live and learn...
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As you build if you come up with things that you wish you had known, we can update the associated article on bearhawk.tips, or create one if there isn't one. You can also comment on articles there. Forum participation is great and always welcome, but tidbits get lost sometimes.Originally posted by DBeaulieu View PostLive and learn...
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Here is a source for the bearings...
TRITAN Miniature Ball Bearing: 608, Dbl Shield, 8 mm Bore, 22 mm OD, 7 mm Wd, Alloy Steel Ring
Item 49DD47
Mfr. Model 608 ZZ PRX
Brand TRITAN
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