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    The top fuselage frames were welded up after coping, fitting, prep work (#30 holes for tube oil, deburr, polish), and tacking, and both are hanging over Carlo's garage benches.

    IMG_0997.jpg

    Carlo's hanger clean-up/wing work over the early part of the Labor Day weekend yielded a happy hanger mate (both RV and his Mustang II looking nicely free of spare airplane parts scattered underneath), a new bench, new vertical storage shelves which utilize more of the generously-sized full hanger, reduction of the horizontal filing system footprint, and some progress on getting his wings wired and all that detail work done.

    IMG_0991.jpg

    Both sets of landing gear were plumbed for brakes and the TE treatment was bonded on after priming. Worth noting is that - rather than form the TE ribs from sheet with the 20 ton press - Carlo decided to try welding the rib from .032 4130N flat stock with an aluminum heat sink... turned out well. We had decided to forgo the lower rib in favor of eliminating any catch-points for condensation and go with something closer to the current factory standard. The decision to avoid the second Adel clamp near the axle was based on Carlo's observation that bulkhead fittings are really happiest when installed in bulkheads, so the hard line down from the fuselage flex line to flex line to the brake goes bulkhead to bulkhead. Axles will wait until the fuselage is welded and on the fuse rotisserie for final alignment and tacking... there will be some grinding of primer to do, but the ability to tweak things supersedes a little extra weld prep work. BTW, we cut that axle relief with a mini-mill using a tilt table jig to set the required double-angle... have a shot, but have to fish it out of the camera. The step is not well-represented in this shot, but we went with some scrap streamline for the upper arm and round for the lower, with the actual streamline step and end-plate to be cut and welded after the aircraft is on its gear (along with the axles!).

    IMG_1017.jpg IMG_1016.jpg IMG_1018.jpg
    Sunday was consumed getting the modular table extended to 18' with a cantilevered add-on (the table system is built in 2' increments, with the current two 8' x 34" standard modules sufficient for upper fuse). We could have done a single 24" full table module, but the cantilever was easier to do and preserved some access for the foot pedal and torch connections. Once that work was done, Carlo worked late Sunday and Mon AM to get the lower longerons spliced and bent in the horizontal plane while I built up the standoffs for welding the back side of the lower frame while clamped to the table (the shock strut/front seat base frame needs clearance) and a few other wood and ply-based jigs.

    IMG_1014.jpg IMG_0995 (1).jpg IMG_1006.jpg

    The weekend also saw the reincarnation of the aileron leading edge skin bending jig discussed previously. The first version was disassembled and ply used for other projects, so when Carlo became a bit dissatisfied with the fit on one small section of his right aileron, I got a chance to do SkinBender 2.0, shrinking the footprint and reducing the materials requirement to a half sheet of 18mm ply and a single 2x4, as well as reducing the component count and improving ease of build. I will do an article on this second jig, as it really does make a perfect bend for the aileron a very quick thing.

    With Carlo home on Tuesday and free from other responsibilities, I burned a day of vacation and we worked on the lower frame cutting/fitting/tacking job (which included some very good demos of repair techniques as I got used to the pulse feature on Carlo's SquareWave ... my Everlast has a flex head CK torch and very different pedal feel, so that's my excuse for those burn-throughs while tacking the thinnest wall stuff)... I did get better...slowly. By late afternoon, we had both lower frames ready to get the upper bend set between A and B, as well as start getting things welded up. BTW, Carlo borrowed a mini-mill for the coping, and that was a lovely tool to have to rough the ends, with cleanup done with the usual second cut carbide bit.

    IMG_1001.jpg IMG_1013.jpg

    My plan is to take the welded upper and lower frames back down to my shop, then give Carlo a hand completing his fuse while we still have warmer weather (no heat in his garage or hanger). The blocking and fixturing developed should be readily transportable as are the built tables. In the meantime, I need to re-convert my garage from what was a 1992-vintage show office for a then-new former cow pasture community to a heated and air-conditioned space with the old 10' x 10' manager's office ripped out along with the wall-to-wall carpet. That should take me into October, which will get Carlo onto the fuse rotisserie for all that tabbing and gross layout on seat frames, etc. underway, and the build table knocked down and transported to my place. With heat in my garage, I can weld over the winter to get my own airplane on gear by the spring and back to the wing build-out.
    Last edited by SpruceForest; 09-04-2024, 08:21 AM.

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    • Got my front seat back from the upholstery shop, leather and FAA cert foam. Now I can sit and figure out cockpit ergonomics!

      front seat 1.jpg front seat.jpg front seat 2.jpg

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      • rodsmith
        rodsmith commented
        Editing a comment
        Very nice!

    • Unfortunately I had the opportunity to find out if my roll servo mounted in the wing was actually removable through the access openings. Fortunately it was, although with a lot of difficulty. I couldn't remember when I installed it with the wing open if I had actually checked to see that it was possible to remove the four fasteners. While configuring the G3X system I discovered that the roll servo was not talking to the system. Talking to Garmin experimental support they said to check the status light. I had to buy a telescoping mechanics mirror just to see it and it was not lit meaning either there was no power or the servo was bad. I connected another servo to the connector and verified the wiring was fine. I had made the mounting system using Garmin's generic mount as a starting point. I will make a couple modifications to it that will make installation back in the wing easier. I would say overall, I have not done a good job ensuring good maintenance access throughout the plane while building. Something to think about as you build. I have been very happy with Garmin's support while configuring the system, they have quickly responded to emails with lots of questions from me. Also pleasantly surprised that they have a one week turnaround on repairs. Cost is flat rate about half the cost of buying a new one. Something to consider while buying avionics is does there warranty period start at purchase or when you first fly. Most of my equipment is out of warranty before I fly.

      Edited: I just found out after posting this, my servo is covered under an extended service life extension program, I get a free exchange servo! Surprised as I bought this about 6 years ago.

      DSCF2520.jpg
      Last edited by rodsmith; 09-06-2024, 10:07 AM.

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      • N776BE is officially registered with the FAA as of 3 days ago, but not airworthy yet. The owner gets transition training with Jared on Sept 23ish. Hopefully owner and plane are airworthy at a similar timeframe.

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        • Installed a taxi camera, fabricated a cover for my gascolator, made some small pieces to cover the splits for the portion of my glare shield that extends beyond the windshield, and fabricated a rudder tab. The $17 taxi camera has a better quality video than I was expecting, I was surprised it even worked, nice 170 deg view. A great safety feature. One of the downsides of going to 1/2" plumbing forward of the fuel valve was that the larger gascolator was too large to mount inside the belly, in fact it extended 1 5/8" below. Working through a list of mostly small tasks before I schedule the DAR.

          DSCF2527.jpg DSCF2510.jpg DSCF2529.jpg DSCF2535.jpg DSCF2530.jpg
          Last edited by rodsmith; 09-13-2024, 12:53 AM.

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          • DBeaulieu
            DBeaulieu commented
            Editing a comment
            Looks like nice work as usual!

          • Gerhard Rieger
            Gerhard Rieger commented
            Editing a comment
            I made the exact same cover for my gascolator. Your work looks great.

        • Originally posted by rodsmith View Post
          That’s a nice job on fairing the intake into the nosebowl.
          Did you post any photos anywhere if when you did that?

          Thanks,
          pb

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          • rodsmith Rod, can you provide me some info on the camera install when it's convenient? Type camera/brand/model, routing/interface to MFD? I would like to do same. Appreciate!

            Dave (from Maine)

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            • The camera brand is Raayoo, still available on amazon. I'm sure others will work also. Just make sure it is one that can convert to forward looking. This one came with two wire loops, cut one loop to make it forward looking, cut the other to remove the back up guide lines. It comes with two connectors, one for power and one for video. I cut off the power connector and installed a two pin connector and used shielded wire back to the main bus. I used the supplied video connector, bought a 6' RCA cable that connects to the PFD using a male BNC to female RCA connector. Both available on amazon. Routed the wiring under the cylinders with the starter cable.

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              • DBeaulieu
                DBeaulieu commented
                Editing a comment
                Thanks so much Rod! I'll start looking into things...Cheers!

            • pb, I thought I had posted pictures of the process, did a search and couldn't find it, Here's some photos, basically used pink foam and shaped it. Can't find a picture of the hole I cut in the cowling, it was big. Finish work took a lot of time.

              DSCF1065.jpg DSCF1069.jpg DSCF1076.jpg

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              • 500AGL
                500AGL commented
                Editing a comment
                Thank you!

            • Templated, fit and fine tuning bulkhead in cargo area. Decided to use Kydex material which is easy to work with but seems a bit heavier than Al and certainly a bit more $$

              Kydex cargo bulkhead.jpg

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              • I cast the aileron balance weights using the poured lead method. I had some lead bricks laying around from a previous employer, so no shortage of raw material. I was pleasantly surprised that a cheap second hand electric hot plate generated enough heat to melt the required amount.
                IMG_5682.jpg IMG_5685.png IMG_5686.jpg

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                • svyolo
                  svyolo commented
                  Editing a comment
                  The cheapest lead I could find was 5 lb fishing weights (ball shaped). My 2nd hand hot plate wouldn't melt it. But I took a cheap torch to the lead, melted just enough to cover the bottom of the old pan, and that did the trick. It melted right down. 4 bucks a pound was the cheapest I could find. I used epoxy/lead shot for the ailerons.

              • The fuselage builds continue apace, with Carlo's on the build table getting the vertical work done. I'm out for some travel next week, so he will be doing a bunch of work on brackets and other stuff, and we'll pull his out of the fixture around the 30th and get mine moving to fully tacked stage. Carlo does not have the luxury of a heated/cooled garage (wife insists on parking her Tesla inside of a perfectly good shop... crazy, eh?), so the clock is running on mid-Oct cutoff for welding up big stuff at his place. My garage is heated/air conditioned, so my welding and tabbing can hold off to winter... we will tack mine in early Oct and get it out of Carlo's garage so we can get his on the rotisserie to get as much done as possible before the cold sets in... hoping for a late warm snap through Halloween to stretch things.

                IMG_1109.jpg IMG_1114.jpg IMG_1115.jpg

                This past week I ended up building jigs and checking math during the day, then 3-4 hours each night up at Carlo's to get another station or two tacked in. We've been building up a rough-cut frame tubing kit as we've gotten his fuse filled out, so it should go a bit quicker the second time around. Laser shows pretty much dead center, so tacking up nice and straight.

                IMG_1103.jpg

                I usually can do physical layouts on the fly for most stuff like the bend in the E-M frames, but making up the jigs and fixtures usually takes my wood-focused shop (I build/repair fretted instruments in addition to the day job). For the C-P frame (which gets a 148.9 deg bend fore and aft and a 176.3 deg in towards centerline), I did a physical layout, checked it with the usual double angle math for 90 deg cases, and then did a layout in Fusion to triple-check (any of these would have sufficient, but my descriptive geometry is pretty rusty... result is 148.7 deg bend and 23 and 27 inches CTC). Jig from bending brake crate scrap to check the cut before welding and tweaking after, plus a spacing jig (30" CTC > 29-1/8" long spacer mounted above the bend with tubes plumbed to Y-Z) to get the two C-P's precisely angled and allow a laser alignment with the fuse Y-Z.

                IMG_1124.jpg

                We needed the firewall framing to get the rest of the diagonals from C-P filled in, so another trip to Home Depot for some 18mm ply to get out the firewall frame cut/tack jig and the fixture to establish the rough 5.7 deg setback angle on that weldment (to be double-checked with a bob and laser). Hope to get both firewall frames welded, tweaked, and Carlo's tacked in with mount bushings and the T-8 diagonals later today.

                IMG_1118.jpg IMG_1119.jpg

                Carlo managed to tab out most of his lower frame before we did the 3-D build... brackets for the battery, engine monitor connectors, pedals and brakes, etc. got done without the frames in the way. Mine will get most of that stuff afterwards as I refine all the systems stuff. Also trying to provision for floats and cargo pod on mine, so that adds to the head-scratching.

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                • Decided on where and how to install Matco Park Brake Valve. Cable for lever will mount to fuselage frame right side somehow, or possibly on the panel

                  PB valve install.jpg PB valve install 1.jpg

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                  • Carlo's fuselage got pulled from the table and my bottom and top frames got bent and we started jigging up. Carlo got enough structure in his fuse to avoid deformation... the cockpit diagonals will go in once the seating is ironed out (NOT going with Barrows design there...). Carlo hosting another Patrol scratch builder this weekend while he picks up aft spar caps and all of my wing tooling.

                    IMG_1150.jpg IMG_1147.jpg

                    Proof that two Patrol fuselages plus wife's Tesla can all fit in one 20' x 20' garage with some creative work with Harbor Freight J-hooks and ratchet straps.

                    If you get by KFDK this weekend for the Frederick Wings and Wheels airport open house, look for Carlo's Mustang Too and a set of Patrol wings on the last hanger row north of the old tower building. And just because I was in Tampa earlier in the week and saw this mural on a building side, had to post it.

                    IMG_1134.jpg

                    Finally... after his Lincoln SquareWave ate its third board in 2.5 airplanes, Carlo borrowed my Everlast 255EXT while waiting for his Everlast 200DV to show. Big Green rocks. I loved the soft start on the Lincoln - almost distance-independent - but eating $800 boards at a better than one-per-airplane clip takes the edge off. I think Carlo liked my CK 17 flex head a little better than the Lincoln or Everlast stock 17's... ordered one up and is borrowing my 25' until his fuse is on the rotisserie.
                    Last edited by SpruceForest; 09-27-2024, 09:42 AM.

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                    • Mounted park brake control knob. Seems like a good place. Aircraft Spruce has the park brake button decal that will label the function and operation of the knob.

                      Park brake control knob.jpg Park brake control knob 1.jpg

                      Comment


                      • Pbruce
                        Pbruce commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Good idea. I used the same cable mounted on the lower right instrument panel, so I can release it from outside by sticking my hand in the window. Yours does that while saving more panel space. Coin mat on the floor looks pro. I used truck bed liner over self-etching primer from rattle cans. Hopefully it sticks and stands up.
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