Seaplane doors

[Pbruce]

Nice work! I’m curious about the reason for switching to gull-wing doors? Is it because it’s easier to step around them while on the float than it would be if they are hinged like car doors? I flew a number of Cessnas on floats but that was years ago. I seem to recall that you could move around the open door fairly easily, then across the cable stretched between the front of the floats while hanging onto the prop if you had to dock on the right. Is the BH geometry different enough to necessitate the gull-wings, or is it because of the excellent cool factor, or both? Just curious because I may one day put my (land version) Patrol on floats.

[svyolo]

For me several reasons, even though I haven't ever sat in anything similar. It looks easier to get in and out. The whole door swings up and out of the way. The stock doors are very heavy, the kit doors are 5 lbs a side. That is just the unfinished door frame. Also if you are doing patroller style doors the kit lower door has a bunch of tubing criss crossing the door. The seaplane doors can be a lot less cluttered visually.

Ok, mostly it looks cool. The stock doors allow you to fly with the window open. I will probably fly with them first, and change them out later if I decide to do it.

[Pbruce]

Thanks for that. Yes they do look cool. Rob Caldwell’s gulling doors look absolutely amazing. Of course, much of the appeal comes from the high level of fit and finish he does. But there’s no denying, they are really neat. I really like the “all glass effect” too. This being my first build, I need to stay basic, but custom doors could be added later, as you pointed out.

[svyolo]

I think they can also be retrofitted later. The door sill needs to be raised slightly (or use a mouse door). Several of the newer high wing kit planes use the seaplane doors. They look pretty slick to me.

[svyolo]

It looks like more and more 4 place BH's are being built with seaplane style doors. For those that did, any regrets, or things you would do different next time? Hinge types, or use the kit steel hinges if a QB kit?

[robcaldwell]

Raising the threshold is a must. I raised mine 3", which was too much. 2" will probably suffice.

I ran a AL extruded piano hinge across the full length of the door top. This required squaring off the top door tube with 4130 plate. I installed the plate on the outward side and bottom only. Just 2 sides. Stitch welded. This allowed a flat surface for the piano hinge. When I installed the door for the final time, I attached the top of the hinge with Cherry Max rivets. The bottom of the hinge attaches to the door with #10 flush head screws and hidden nutplates inside the door frame, so I can remove the doors if necessary.

Regrets?... I don't think I would do it any differently, but... It took MONTHS to complete this task. In fact, I bet I lost 6 months on the door project alone! The good news is, I don't hate my doors. I LOVE THEM! And I would NEVER do it again!

[rodsmith]

I've decided to do the sea plane doors also. Always wanted to but was hesitant due to raising the sill, will make it harder for my wife to get in and probably myself also. Mine will be similar to Rob's, but instead of making the square carbon tubes I bought them on EBAY, still waiting on them to arrive. Mike Patey's video on making the door for Scrappy was very helpful. I just completed my carbon/foam baggage door, working on the rear door. Used the aircraft as the forms, along with liberal use of 1x2s 1/4"plywood and hot glue. Hopefully it will be a big weight savings as it is taking copious time.

[svyolo]

The square carbon tubing was pretty pricey. I will definitely swap the cargo doors out for CF/foam down the road. I think I will just use the stock front doors to see how I like them first. If I make Oshkosh (driving) maybe I can try both out.

[svyolo]

Mark told me how much I needed to raise the door sill a while back. I ran a straight line from the front lower corner, and the rear lower corner of the door opening. I believe it was more than adequate. Basically just take the jog out of the lower door sill.

[Nev]

John, at this stage my plane isn’t flying, but as Rob said, I’m very happy to have made the change. Mine added probably an extra week to the build, mostly because I can’t weld to save myself. I raised the door sill 2 inches, and used the top door frame and just welded a new lower frame to the top one. I haven’t finished adding the acrylic yet, so there’s another days work.

But I love the concept. I’ve climbed in and out numerous times, and it works fine. Not perfect (bigger would be nice) but it’s good. I can already see that I still have an issue to resolve along the top hinged part. I simply used the existing two steel hinges. But I can see that the alignment is going to make it a PIA to seal. You get that on the big jobs

[svyolo]

I am tempted to just use the kit hinges. Mine are only welded on the top. I would like to weld the other side, but I think I am just as likely to screw up the hinge or its alignment.

[Gerhard Rieger]

Hi Nevil, I have two hinges similar to yours, I made a aluminum trim that fit inside and also go around the top frame to give me a surface to add a proper seal, zoom in on my first photo.

[Gerhard Rieger]

A9FD16F0-530B-47B1-A5B0-764A5D00511F.jpeg42395105-407A-4015-BB1A-B9F561FE237C.jpeg05CC39F5-122B-474A-B251-F4B392C82B48.jpegD6876BB4-99B1-410E-87B2-466F2E5752FD.jpeg181569B1-750C-40E5-AB0C-88BB4B6FA13A.png

[Gerhard Rieger]

Hi, I did not raise the whole sill, I only did the front section that needs to clear the strut, giving you more space to get in. It complicates the door a bit, but it’s behind me and done. I also included a opening window in both doors that can be opened in flight, I hinged it front and back similar to the rear door hinges. The window has a piano hinge.

[Nev]

Mate that’s a piece of art !