Oil filter adapter

[Nev]

So just to be clear, that part does not change the risk or remove the risk. This will give the same results as a daisy-chain cooler / filter.

My understanding Jon is that this part should keep the risk the same as with a spin on filter adapter. It should change the results from the daisy-chaining scenario and allow the filter to operate all the time (even when the oil is cold), and the oil cooler to still be controlled by the Vernatherm.

[svyolo]

I think this discussion would lead me to leave my oil cooler/filter as is, and remove the vernatherm for the first couple of oil changes. Then, maybe add it back. Or not. The oil screen has a pretty small area compared to a spin on filter. If debris from the rebuild is that big an issue, I think I would rather trust in a larger filter, than just the screen.

The local tech counselor and retired Boeing engineer, hates fuel tank strainers because they clog up too easy. When I pulled the oil screen a couple of months ago, I kind of thought the same thing about it. Maybe it has a bypass?

[Nev]

I rang Airwolf and spoke to a technical rep. Here's what they told me.

Remove the Vernatherm housing and replace it with the LYC-10 part.
Remove the oil screen (what I previously referred to as the rock catcher) and leave it out.
They recommend a Champion oil filter that has a bypass valve in the base.
I questioned whether the oil would be filtered all of the time, or whether it would bypass when the oil was cold (meaning the oil might not be getting filtered at that point). He said for extremely cold temperatures the bypass would activate and allow some oil to bypass the filter. I asked what temperature this would occur and he said anywhere below 20°f (-7°c) and for about one minute.

Here in NZ we have a temperate climate and as Battson stated it would be unusual to see temperatures lower than this. So I think for the proposed change to my remote filter installation, my oil will be getting safely filtered "pretty much" all of the time, but with a safety feature there in case of very cold temps. I will be checking the type of filter I install just to be sure.

[Battson]

Great information, this has been a very educational thread. Thanks Nev.

[AKKen07]

I'm a little jealous of your climate.

[Nev]

I've now completed the changes to my oil system and installed the Airwolf LYC-10. I was able to reuse two of the existing oil lines, and I made two new ones. My rock catcher is now removed from the system and I will be using a filter with a bypass valve. We did a short run-up yesterday to check for leaks, all good.

Incidentally, I had previously had all my oil/fuel/hydraulic lines made for me, at considerable expense, with out knowing that they can be done relatively easily at home. They took me about 10 minutes each using a cutoff wheel and a spanner. As with all my control cables, I then had the lines tested (at a hydraulic facility). They put 3000psi in the Teflon lines and they were fine. The Teflon is rated to 5000psi with a burst pressure of 3X that amount. All the parts were purchased at the local racing shop - a great source of AN fittings etc.

This was done in conjunction with the first 50 hour check, and very happy with the results at the end of completion of test flying and issue of C of A.
All 3 oil filters (sump, paper filter and rock catcher) were very clean and leak-downs all very favourable.

[Battson]

Just a footnote, that if you make your own lines at home with rubber Aeroquip hose WITHOUT using the expensive mandrill which they specific, you need to check for rubber grommets forming inside the lines (just look down the finished hose or poke a dowel through it) to ensure any grommets inadvertently created during the process don't end up in the oil system (or fuel system for fuel lines).

[Bcone1381]

See Post #9. Paul has a Patrol with an O-360.

Search on the Aircraft Spruce link for 77852 and you will see the Lycoming distributed adapter that is fabricated by Donaldson. It seems to me like this is what Paul has installed. The Donaldson marketed part is a good value.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...dAirFilter.php

Here is the Lycoming installation manual.
http://www.aravia.com.ar/PDF/SSP-885...lter_kits_.PDF

Manual P.1 has the dimensions with a Lycoming oil canister. My research shows Paul's Tempest filter is .4" shorter than the Lyc canister filter (4.3 inches....like the AC filter). So it seems we need 7.5 inches between the accessory case and the firewall for it to fit.

Beware, I have not fit this up for myself yet. It would be nice to get feedback.

[svyolo]

I've now completed the changes to my oil system and installed the Airwolf LYC-10. I was able to reuse two of the existing oil lines, and I made two new ones. My rock catcher is now removed from the system and I will be using a filter with a bypass valve. We did a short run-up yesterday to check for leaks, all good.

Incidentally, I had previously had all my oil/fuel/hydraulic lines made for me, at considerable expense, with out knowing that they can be done relatively easily at home. They took me about 10 minutes each using a cutoff wheel and a spanner. As with all my control cables, I then had the lines tested (at a hydraulic facility). They put 3000psi in the Teflon lines and they were fine. The Teflon is rated to 5000psi with a burst pressure of 3X that amount. All the parts were purchased at the local racing shop - a great source of AN fittings etc.

This was done in conjunction with the first 50 hour check, and very happy with the results at the end of completion of test flying and issue of C of A.
All 3 oil filters (sump, paper filter and rock catcher) were very clean and leak-downs all very favourable.

I went with the reuseable Aeroquip (a mix of brands)style hose ends thinking I would change my mind and/or make some mistakes. I started with the long hoses first, if I screwed one up it became a shorter hose. One mistake that was easy to make is you can't really have a straight hose, with 2 straight fittings. If you have straight fittings, the hose needs to be curved. if the hose is straight, and/or short, it is best to have a 90 degree fitting, or close to 90, on one end.

The oil lines are -8 or -10, I can't remember. When you start getting into 90's and such the size of the fittings is considerable, and the geometry takes some practice to get the lines right.

Saved myself a bunch of money, and it wasn't that hard to do. The first half a dozen I was only about 50/50 getting the fitting on. I got a lot better quickly.

[Bcone1381]

I'm reading author David Prizio's book Powering your Plane (eat publication). He talked about the Aeroquip SS braided 601 hose and there fittings. Is that the hose you used?

[svyolo]

That is most of what I used. I did use a little of their Startlite hose in a few places. The trick with the fittings is getting the fitting on the hose. You wrap the hose with about 10-15 wraps of tape over where you cut it. Before removing the tape, have the fitting right by you, because as soon as you take the tape off, the SS braid starts to slowly unravel.