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Reaming 1/4" hole in bushing failure - Advice on mitigating rust??

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  • Reaming 1/4" hole in bushing failure - Advice on mitigating rust??

    Well, I was getting back in the groove, making progress after a long sabbatical from the Bearhawk and then the bad words started. Really bad words.

    I was working on the hinge bushings on the first horizontal stabilizer. Got them welded, cut down, sanded, and hand filed to correct length of 1". Next step was to ream out the bushings for the AN-4 bolts. Should be easy right, NOT FOR ME! First went through easily and quickly as expected. Second one got a little hard in the middle, me, I just push a little harder. Big mistake! Hole oblong and way off center. After some really bad words and what could be considered a fit of the worst 2 year old on earth, I collected myself and decided that was a "do over". Luckily, I have a lot of experience with screw-ups and it was surprisingly easy to sand down the welds and drill out the 3/8" bushing. Stopped there to regroup and ask for forgiveness for my bad behavior.

    Just wanted to share that bad experience so hopefully no one else takes reaming out a hole for granted.

    I wanted to ask for some advice on rust prevention. Living in south Louisiana, rust is real issue. As soon as tubing is cleaned for welding, it starts to rust. I won't talk about the sweat that drips on the pieces to compound the problem. I was going to complete the tail components and then start on the fuselage. The tail components will be set aside for some time. Rust will be a serious threat here. I was going to spray down with a product like Rustlic, shrink wrap, and store in the high (warm) part of the shop. Are there any better suggestions or experiences?

    I've been a lurker mostly and not a poster. I tried to post of pic but not having luck. If interested you can check my Kitlog site. Hope my signature shows up. Peace out.
    Thanks too much,
    John Bickham

    Los Lunas, NM Mid Valley Airpark E98
    BH Plans #1117
    Avipro wings/Scratch
    http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....er&project=882

  • #2
    Hi John. You might try LPS3 on your unpainted steel parts. It can be bought in a gallon can and wiped on with a rag instead of a spray bottle.

    I have screwed up parts on every plane I have worked on. Surely there are guys that are better craftsmen and don't do it. But not me. Don't feel bad. Mark

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi John, if you are planning to sand-blast the steel parts and apply a good primer before you cover (which I hope you are), then you could paint them as-is with a cheap rustoleum rattle can paint for now. You don't need to do a good job- don't worry about prep or runs. It will blast right off, and if you use a light color, you'll even have an easier time seeing where you have blasted when you get to that point.

      Comment


      • #4
        Two reasons for this reply. Thank Jared and Mark for the advice. Considering options. Second, I was having trouble uploading attachments. No success doing it in MS IE 11. I switched to Google Chrome and easy, peasy! Got give that credit to Jared also. I researched the "bugs" page and saw his suggestion for that.

        Mark, I included the pick of the Horizontal Stabilizer since we had a conversation on that and thanks for that too.

        Somebody call the doctor, I got posting fever! I'll stop now.
        You do not have permission to view this gallery.
        This gallery has 2 photos.
        Thanks too much,
        John Bickham

        Los Lunas, NM Mid Valley Airpark E98
        BH Plans #1117
        Avipro wings/Scratch
        http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....er&project=882

        Comment


        • #5
          John, I'm glad you were able to sort out the picture problem. I was just in the process of writing you an email about that when I saw your post. Post all you want, we love to hear about your progress and challenges!

          Comment


          • #6
            John: I use a product called PHIX on my 4130. ( www.ppcbest.com/phix_treatment). On clusters, I apply it after the welds cool. On flat stock, I use it as soon as I open the shipment.
            Something about the mill process on the flat 4130 make it rust real quick. I also dehumidify the shop during the warmer months, but the PHIX does help a lot. There may be other similar products. It's just a phosphoric acid treatment, supposedly non-toxic too. sf.

            Comment


            • #7
              If you are reaming, and maybe this goes without saying, don't skimp on really good industrial-grade cutting fluid. Pour it in there. There is no substitute, and this DOES make for faster, cooler cutting and a tighter tolerance hole when you're done.

              Comment


              • #8
                Again, thanks for the replies. SF, I'm going to give that PHIX a try. Your suggestion to apply to flat stock upon delivery is a good one. Wish I had asked this question sooner. One of the advantages is that improves the welding conductivity. Will still clean prior to any welding.

                Got the new bushing welded in this am and reamed out successfully. peace
                Thanks too much,
                John Bickham

                Los Lunas, NM Mid Valley Airpark E98
                BH Plans #1117
                Avipro wings/Scratch
                http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....er&project=882

                Comment


                • alaskabearhawk
                  alaskabearhawk commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Hey John....

                  Did you use a 1/4in drill bit to ream your holes or a piloted reamer?
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