K1100 nut plate sources, spacing

[Chewie]

Where are people getting k1100-06 nut plates these days? I see the Vans aircraft store website is down and hopefully they will be back up, as I think they had the best pricing. Spruce has -06 and -08, the latter being about 1/5 the cost. Hoping I can find a better option.

Given the astronomic cost, I'm also wondering how much can I stretch the spacing of these guys on wing inspection covers. My initial screw pattern on a 6x6 inspection cover was 12 screws (and nutplates) at the #6 size. Can I get away with 8 #8 screws instead? That would $ave me hundreds...

[Steve W]

I dimpled K1000-6’s with a a squeezer. All of the many anchor nut plates on KHB were done that way. I slightly bent back each tab as the dimpling will put a little “bow” in the plate. Experiment until they lay flat.
I re-read the post and see that it was more for using countersunk screws. I used regular screws for every application. Sorry about that!

[Dpearson]

Same as Steve W, I use K1000-6 and dimple the rivet holes on the legs with a squeezer. For the #27 hole in the inspection ring (the clearance hole for the screw), I have followed what the factory did on my QB wings back in 2006, on the one inspection ring which was factory-installed. They just countersunk the center holes, which does make a "knife edge" in the ring. Not ideal but seems OK based on discussions in some other threads. I've done nut plates for the fuel tank covers and inspection plates this way, the covers seem to fit well.

I made a simple tool to hold my Microstop countersink tool centered vs. the rivet holes while countersinking the center hole - without this the Microstop tool tended to wander a bit. Here are photos of the factory's nut plate approach, and the centering tool.

dp5-450x297.jpg inspection.jpg

[marcusofcotton]

Spencer Aircraft has these: https://spenceraircraft.com/ms21049l...-k1100-06.html


MS21049L06 - Nut - Plate - Self-Locking - 100 Degree Countersunk - 450 Degree - Low Height - 6-32 - Two Lug - Reduced Rivet Spacing - Dry Film Lube (alt part # NAS361-632, AN373F632, NAS681X06, NAS1024A06, K1100-06)


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Quick Overview

100 Degree Floating 6-32 Low Height Nylon Self-Locking Nutplate

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MS21049L06 - 100 Degree Fixed 6-32 Low Height Nylon Self-Locking Nutplate (Also Known as an Anchor Nut) in Alloy Steel with Dry Film Lube Coat (Black Moly); .688 Rivet Spacing/450 Degree Maximum Temperature. 125 KSI Rated Tensile.

[Nev]

I mostly used K1000's, and put a slight bend into each leg. Seemed to work well. The K1100's being super expensive, I reserved their use for a few key places - engine cowls being ones.

[Chewie]

Thanks guys! I did notice Spencer, and it sounds like there are ways to make the K1000s work even with countersink screws. I'll experiment some more before deciding which route to go.

Thoughts on spacing?

[alaskabearhawk]

I would stay with K1000-6s, dimple the legs and just make the screw hole a bit bigger to allow for for the countersink in the inspection plate as I and others have done. The skin is structural and the panels are part of the skin, so they need to contribute to, not take away from, the structure. Having fewer, but bigger screws defeats that purpose.

I measured my wing inspection panel nutplate locations and the distance between them vary between 1 1/2in to just under 2in spacing. If you are in that range you'll be ok. (see attached)

20231204_171000.jpg 20231204_171416.jpg 20231204_171148.jpg 20231204_171551.jpg 20231204_171606.jpg 20231204_171627.jpg 20231204_171638.jpg

[Chewie]

Thanks Paul. Very helpful. After more thoughts and discussions I'm leaning heavily to the K1000s.

As far as dimpling, I'm hoping to forego that and countersink like DesertBearhawk here :

https://bearhawkforums.com/forum/tools-technics-and-best-practices/56231-how-i-rivet-nut-plates

If that doesn't work, dimpling it is.

[alaskabearhawk]

Either method will work just fine. I used both methods. I didn't think the dimpling was any big deal as I have a pneumatic C-frame squeezer similar to that one. It goes really quickly. I know that countersinking, at least for me, usually took a little more time. Even with a microstop, I would always take out a bit of material, check it with a rivet, and repeat again and again. I didn't want to make the countersink too deep.