Bonding Acrylic

[svyolo]

BG;
My apologies for my incorrect assumption. I thought you were talking about bonding a RV4 or 8 bubble canopy. Your canopy bonding is totally applicable to what I am thinking about doing. Thanks for the pics and your patience.

I have used some cheaper consumer Sikaflex products. I will look into what you and vans used. Sounds good. There are some really awesome industrial adhesives out there. Almost all of them are really messy and unpleasant to use. But they are worth it.

[Mark Goldberg]

I did see a friend bond the canopy of his RV7A with SikkoFlex adhesive. I was skeptical but it did seem to stick really well after setting up. Probably would have to break the plexi to get it off.

Then again replacing a window plexi or the windshield after damage would be more involved that just removing screws or drilling out pop rivets. Mark

[BravoGolf]

I read a thread on another website where a builder needed to replace a side skirt on his Sikaflex adhered canopy. I believe it was a RV-7A. He used a finger saw to cut through the Sikafkex by sliding it between the canopy and the aluminum. Seemed to work, of course he taped the canopy to protect it. It had been on the aircraft about two years. Removing one skirt is nothing like removing the whole canopy. I hope to never gain person experience at that project

[BravoGolf]

BG;
My apologies for my incorrect assumption. I thought you were talking about bonding a RV4 or 8 bubble canopy. Your canopy bonding is totally applicable to what I am thinking about doing. Thanks for the pics and your patience.

I have used some cheaper consumer Sikaflex products. I will look into what you and vans used. Sounds good. There are some really awesome industrial adhesives out there. Almost all of them are really messy and unpleasant to use. But they are worth it.

No problem. Hope the info helps with your project.

[svyolo]

Cutting through urethane adhesive is extremely difficult at room temperature. Better to heat it up a bit and soften it.
I doubt you could remove a poly window that has been bonded on without ruining it. But then again, about the only reason to remove it, would be to replace it.

I am going to bond the acrylic to the lower door for sure. Probably the upper door/window as well.

The more I think about it, the more I am liking the idea of bonding the skylight as well. The leading and trailing edges will be mechanically captured.

[BravoGolf]

Please post photos when you complete your bonding work, I plan on following your footsteps. The bonding adhesive should also provide a good weather/water seal

[svyolo]

I was always planning on bonding to the lower doors. But this thread really made me think hard about the upper doors/windows. I having nothing against the stock installation. But this just seems easier, seals better, maybe a shade quieter. I just don't see any reason not to do it.

[davzLSA]

Hi Scott, I am in the process of installing my side windows and I am going to use your method, already have the stuff on order. I was wonder if you could give the steps you used by the numbers. Thanks

[way_up_north]

Theres a Zenith Super Duty construction video that shows the manufacturer bonding acrylic to the doors, using something similar to 3M VHB tape. Apparently this is in order to reduce stress fractures from screws etc. They then add retaining brackets to properly secure the acrylic.

Has anyone tried this? I’m wondering if the same could be done on Bearhawk doors, and possibly the skylight - perhaps reduce the amount of hardware involved, and reduce the fabrication time. (They also show a very novel method of attaching the front windshield in the same video.)



https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Bp14hfd5_4g&t=606s Skip to 10:00.

Un-related to the original topic as a side note....the plane in the video is Viking air's demo plane showing off thier Honda auto conversion...

[davzLSA]

Hi Guys, I did some more research on using the sikaflex system for bonding windows and was able to get some good info from the factory rep. So the following is the reply to my inquiry for information. For pre-treatment of all substrates we recommend first abrading the bonding area with ScotchBrite abrasion pad (or similar) then removing debris. Then apply Sika Aktivator-205 using a clean towel with a "wipe on / wipe off" method. Allow at least 10 minutes of reaction time. Then apply Sika Primer-209 D with a brush or dauber and allow at least 10 minutes reaction time. Lastly, use Sikaflex-295 UV as the adhesive. Please be aware that we do not recommend the use of our products on aircraft or as the sole mechanical fastener for components on moving vehicles. This application is recommended for boat windows though. If you will notice he says not to be used for aircraft so I take that to mean use at your own risk.

[Nev]

Has anyone considered bonding the rear cargo door window directly to the inside of the skin ? Would it be feasible? I’m wondering if the window frame would even be needed in that case. Appreciate thoughts or photos if some has done something similar. I’m considering bonding the door skin to the frame, then bonding the lexan inside the door skin.

[svyolo]

I am bonding the windows to the front doors, the skylight to the two inside formers (outside will be bolted). Thanks to your question I will now be bonding the skins to the cargo doors, and the window to the inside of the skin. I will radius the edges the door skin to give a bit more surface area around the tubing.

Most door skins on cars have been bonded to the door frames for way over 10 years. Maybe a lot longer.

Thanks.