Swaged cable fittings vs Nicopres

[arborite]

Hello to all. I will be starting an LSA quick build this summer and am doing as much as I can to prepare. This includes ordering the hardware, as there are some long lead times on some parts. One of my advisors for this project is an experienced builder of other scratch built designs. His recommendation is to use swaged cable end fittings rather than the looped cable and thimble setup. I do like the clean install without exposed cable ends and am considering following his advice. he has the zillion dollar tool needed to do the swage that i can borrow. Reading the plans and working up a hardware list now. It’s definitely more expensive, but not by a huge amount.

Question for the group - has anyone else done this? It looks pretty straightforward except for a few places where the horn thickness may require wider forks than standard, but otherwise looks doable. Any advice from the group?

Thanks in advance. I’m learning a ton from this message board and the tips website.

Wayne

[alaskabearhawk]

I have on my 4 place because I have that fancy tool. Either method is acceptable of course. Having the swaged ball ends are especially useful for clearance at the flap arm cable connection at the wing root and the flap lever connection below the floor. The LSA doesn’t have flaps so that’s a moot point.

Using the swager isn’t difficult, but it does require a bit of training so you use it correctly otherwise you can damage the expensive fittings. Loos & Co out of Florida has good videos online on the use of the Kearney swager. If you have someone that has used the tool and is familiar with it is even better.

Example: https://loosnaples.com/how-to-setup-...aging-machine/

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=yeeeha&project=527&category=0&log=257722&row=520

[Nev]

I used swagged fittings on my aileron pass-through cable. The reduced size of them enabled me to have the cable made and tested, then thread through the ribs into position.

[arborite]

Thanks guys. one question for alaskabearhawk - what end fitting did you use for the aileron cable connection to the control stick? LSA Plans show a material thickness of .090” plus two welded .062 washers for a total thickness of .214”. the regular fork end for the 1/8” cable (MS20667-4) has a slot of .195”. there has to be clearance to allow movement, so that’s a lot of material to remove from the fitting or the washers. did you find a different fitting? I could use the ball type and spread the gap I suppose.

this will probably be clear when i actually receive the parts, but i’m trying to anticipate if I can.

thanks

[Paul Johnston]

I did the swedged cable ends on my controls - and also made assembles for the tail group for flying wires. The stud ends and forks come threaded right and left hand so the assembly’s are adjustable like a turnbuckle.Call and get a catalog from Genuine Aircraft Hardware for part numbers and supplies on this 888 247-2738

[arborite]

Thanks Paul. I have all the parts worked out now to do the conversion including the turnbuckles. The only one that is a problem now is the aileron connection from the control stick. The stack up thickness is too big for standard fork or strap ends unless they are modified. What did you use there? I am thinking that i will order strap ends and expand the gap to clear the bushing, then swage a ball on the cable.

Maybe i can come over and look at your plane soon if the grass ever dries out.

[jim.mclaughlin924]

I also used all swaged ends, including the tail brace wires. I do own a swaging tool. I did make a jig to pull test all the critical ends, in addition to the go no go gauge. No failures during testing and I like the look of the fittings.

[Paul Johnston]

At the control stick I used nicro- press/thimbal / shackle.

[alaskabearhawk]

The stick connection is different on the 4 place. There is a rod that connects the two sticks together and that rod has a fork end that accommodates the cable end. I just used an eye on the end of the cable.

20230322_162155.jpg20230322_162258.jpg20230322_162651.jpg

[arborite]

right, i should have realized side by side sticks are different. I’ll work it out and publish a parts list when i’m done.

[Bcone1381]

Hey Wayne;

Below is a screen shot of my Patrol Plans. It is a bit confusing.....but I think it shows the control stick material where the cable attaches might be .090" + .062". Check your plans again...is there one washer welded there or two? Does "(2) 3/16" mean one washer on each side? The other view seems to me to indicate that it does.

Brooks



Screen Shot 2023-03-23 at 7.30.03 AM.png

[arborite]

Hi Brooks. my plans call out a total of four and the side view shows one on each side of the lever for a total stack up of .214. interesting that the Patrol has one fewer. wonder if that area is a wear item or alternatively if i can grind down a bit. I’ll wait and see what shows up with the kit and decide then. how did you attach your wire there? Shackle?

The 3/16 on you plans refers to the hole diameter. Mine are 0.190. basically the same.
79F03525-3A36-4BDC-BC90-8384EA443505.jpg

[geraldmorrissey]

This process requires no additional parts or expensive tooling. I may try it on my rudder cables. It makes a very elegant cable end.

[arborite]

This process requires no additional parts or expensive tooling. I intend to try it on my rudder cables. It makes a very elegant cable end.

Wow, you’re more talented than I. I used to do that with rope but not sure I have the skill or patience to try 7 strand wire. Agree it makes a very attractive termination.

[svyolo]

I used swaged fittings when I could but it was probably a mistake to do it the first time. The BH uses 1/8" cable, and most swaged fittings for 1/8" cable use 1/4" pins/bolts, but Bob used 3/16" holes for most of the control/bellcranks.

I much prefer swages for a lot of reasons, but nico-press are good enough. ACS swages fittings for 5 bucks each. They are stronger and a little lighter. But just check the hole size for the control application, and make sure the fitting you plan to use has the right size hole for the kit piece. Dealing with small bushings would be a pain. The kit pieces are all min-edge distance holes. You can't just drill out the hole to 1/4"

[Bcone1381]

Yes Wayne, I used a shackle attached to an Eye Splice to connect the lower aileron cable to the stick.

I'm sure you have discoverd that there are several types of eye ends available. The SA361 eye end that attaches to the cable via a swaged ball that you mentioned in Post #5 seems like a good way to go.

Gerald, What a hoot! Splicing cable like a sailer! I've done that with Boy Scouts using rope and have seen beautiful rope work on ships. If you are ever in Boston go see the Constitution. The Star Ferry in Hong Kong also has rope spliced like that using rope as big around as a large mans thigh.

[arborite]

I used swaged fittings when I could but it was probably a mistake to do it the first time. The BH uses 1/8" cable, and most swaged fittings for 1/8" cable use 1/4" pins/bolts, but Bob used 3/16" holes for most of the control/bellcranks.

I much prefer swages for a lot of reasons, but nico-press are good enough. ACS swages fittings for 5 bucks each. They are stronger and a little lighter. But just check the hole size for the control application, and make sure the fitting you plan to use has the right size hole for the kit piece. Dealing with small bushings would be a pain. The kit pieces are all min-edge distance holes. You can't just drill out the hole to 1/4"

I’m using fittings with .188” holes and the clearance holes in the plane are .190 so i think i’m good.