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Engine Baffle Question

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  • Engine Baffle Question

    Started work on my IO-540 engine baffles this weekend. I have the vans baffle kit for the RV10. Took me a while to figure out how the aft baffle pieces fit against the engine case, likewise with the front baffles. The aft baffle piece behind cylinder 6 was an absolute bear to get into place. Had to do some trimming on several pieces. It occurred to me that the baffle kit is for a wide deck engine and I built my engine from a narrow deck core. There may be some shape differences between the two styles of cases. Having said that, I still feel the baffle kit is very worthwhile. Not sure how I would have formed the curves around the cylinders etc. My question is how close to trim the aluminum baffle to the top of the cowl before installing the air seal material. I'm thinking no more than an inch. Still tempting to make a plenum, would be easy enough, I really want to be able to open the cowl doors and see the engine though. My next challenge will be going from the oval cowl inlets to the rectangular shape of the baffling, I hope to be able to make ducts out of the air seal or other flexible material. I have to laugh at the detail of instructions that came with the kit. I just looked at the drawings and the kit pieces and went to work. Bearhawk builders don't need no stinkin instructions!

  • #2
    I have 28 entries on the engine baffling on my kitlog. I found the Vans kit was a good starting point, but that was about it. Like you identified behind cylinder #6 was a royal PITA! I did between 1/2-3/4in spacing for the flexible baffling. I used the paperclip technique as a starting point:

    homebuilt aircraft, builders log, experimental, experimental aircraft, 51% rule, fifty-one percent rule, 51% percent rule, aircraft homebuilt kit, aircraft homebuilt plan, aircraft composite homebuilt, aircraft experimental homebuilt, aircraft experimental kit

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    • rodsmith
      rodsmith commented
      Editing a comment
      Great info Paul! I would have never thought of the paper clips for measurement. Also your engine mount covers. Hope I can find something similar.

  • #3
    I'm just finishing mine up. I used the Vans kit for an angle valve IO360. It's a lot of work even with the kit to start with, I would not want to do it from scratch. Van's drawings are all you really need but think about disassembly in the future and make sure you use screws/nut plates at key spots.

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    • rodsmith
      rodsmith commented
      Editing a comment
      I wouldn't have had a clue where to start if trying to make them from scratch. I wonder what the 5 builders using angle valve 540s or 580s are using?

    • Mark Goldberg
      Mark Goldberg commented
      Editing a comment
      A friend of mine is developing a baffle set for the angle valve 540's. Will be available very soon. Mark

  • #4
    I'm curious what the best practice if for the order of work Firewall Forward. Rod and Others..... Did you build your cowl first, then install baffles?
    Brooks Cone
    Southeast Michigan
    Patrol #303, Kit build

    Comment


    • rodsmith
      rodsmith commented
      Editing a comment
      I totally completed my cowling before starting on the baffles. The oversize aluminum baffle pieces would be in the way of fitting the cowling, so I believe that is the correct sequence.

    • alaskabearhawk
      alaskabearhawk commented
      Editing a comment
      Same here as Rod. Cowling was completed before doing the baffling.
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