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Anyone thought about or have implemented striker plates of some sort for the door latch pins? Seems like something you would want to have after fabric is around the formers?
Dave
Dave
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Last edited by DBeaulieu; 04-23-2024, 03:43 PM. -
I did this with a piece of stainless steel -
strkerplate.jpg
I wrapped it around the outside a bit for when someone slams the door thinking it will work like a dead latch and catch automatically. -
I haven't made it yet but was definitely going to make one for each front door on the 4 place. The the holes in the 5052 formers that door frames are made of will probably wear fairly quickly. I will use cheap hardware store stainless.Comment
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Thanks for the replies. I will see what I can do with a bit of stainless. Need to get some for the scuff plates under the window latch and might work well as striker plate material as well.
DaveComment
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K&S sells lots of stuff at hardware stores and online.Comment
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Watch Rob Caldwell’s video on YouTube he shows his seaplane doors and talks through how he made his strike platesComment
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Just bare 4130 door structure on 4130 pin works fine and should last the life of the aircraft. For those with that build, unsure if some are aluminium now.
That said, a stainless striker plate will look nicer than greased 4130. Depends what you want in your build, kilograms are made one gram at a time (or pounds are made of ounces if you prefer).
With a touch of lubrication once a decade or so, the 4130 holds up perfectly well and runs smoothly enough. To have a really nice door, the Bob design latch isn't going to self-close. You need after-kit parts.
I would think in a very salty environment the Bob door latch could corrode and seize up, if not used often, as it has to be bare metal with a very thin coat of heavy grease.
They are not a high wear part, probably only opening once per flight hour on average.
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