What cable are folks using for the BH? The plans spec stainless steel, bu it seems that galvanized would be the better choice:
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I used stainless steel cable and suspect most others did too, per the plans. That said, I am not familiar with this galv. vs S/S argument, but that article reads extremely one-eyed. I'm not an expert; I have done a little work around galv cable.
I would add that we deal with galv. cables through work (non-aviation), and it is not new technology and not without it's own set of problems which you need to be aware of (not mentioned in that article). But that said I don't know which is better, overall.Last edited by Battson; 01-13-2014, 10:20 PM.
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I ordered galvanized for the wings since it is stronger, cheaper, and longer lasting. I also live in the middle of the country in a desert environment so I don't have to worry about salt water. I figured that it would be easy enough to change out if my bird ends up on floats later.Joe
Scratch-building 4-place #1231
Almost Wyoming region of Nebraska
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I'm now thinking I'll do SS for the rudder cables and galv for the ailerons and flaps. The rudder cable is pretty much a straight shot, no pulley bends and is in the area where it will be most affected by water. The ailerons and flaps take a lot of turns over pulleys and are protected from direct contact with the elements.
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Originally posted by alaskabearhawk View PostI'm now thinking I'll do SS for the rudder cables and galv for the ailerons and flaps. The rudder cable is pretty much a straight shot, no pulley bends and is in the area where it will be most affected by water. The ailerons and flaps take a lot of turns over pulleys and are protected from direct contact with the elements.John Snapp (Started build in Denver, CO) Now KAWO -Arlington Washington Bearhawk Patrol - Plans #255 Scratch built wing and Quickbuild Fuselage as of 11/2021. Working on skinning the left wing! -Ribs : DONE -Spars: DONE, Left wing assembly's: DONE., Top skins : DONE YouTube Videos on my building of patrol :https://m.youtube.com/user/n3uw
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I'll go with either one on the trim. I spent sometime this afternoon with a friend that maintains a fleet of Part 135 Beavers and Turbo Otters on floats, along with a number of PA18s, C180/185s, etc. here in Alaska. He said the galvanized cables, by far, outlast the SS cables...no question. Even the water rudder cables that are SS wear way faster than the galvanized. He said a number of times they look at the SS water rudder cables at the pulley locations (where they make a bend around a pulley) and they look ok from the outside. But if you expand the strands, they are visibly worn in the middle and the individual strands are worn so thin you can see the thinning with the naked eye. He said the corrosion is no problem at all with the galv cables and they look fine as long as they get the minimum of maintenance. They always replace cables with galv when possible. Bottom line (my take-away): If the cable goes over a pulley, galv is the only and safest way to go. Rudder and trim cables can be either...straight shot with no turns.
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I have to be honest, I didn't even realize the plans specified which type to use. I can't believe I missed it. What page is it on? I figured that was one of the things that was left up to the builder. Also, is there a turnbuckle on the cable that runs between the bellcranks or do you use 2 shackles? I currently have a turnbuckle for it but if I could get away with a shackle instead, that would be one less turnbuckle to buy for the fuselage.Joe
Scratch-building 4-place #1231
Almost Wyoming region of Nebraska
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When I ordered the 3rd turnbuckle I was thinking it would be nice to have a little extra adjustment but then I started having second thoughts and have been going back and forth. I will probably use it since the length of that cable would be a little less critical.Joe
Scratch-building 4-place #1231
Almost Wyoming region of Nebraska
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