I've asked this before, but don't remember the answer! What tubing thickness/diameter are folks using for the rear hand hold?
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Rear Fuselage Hand Hold
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If you are making your own, I would seriously install a different design.
In my opinion, the ones provided on the kit/plans are far too low for a tall man to apply any strength to moving the aircraft as he's doubled over - this only becomes apparent once the plane is finished and loaded up heavy. They also encourage 'helpers' to push on the tailplane as they assist with handling the aircraft. I prefer the BAS handle design myself, and regret not making a change every time I move the aircraft...
That is my 2c anyway - sorry it's no help with your original question!
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I definitely agree with that and had considered that design. In one of my old emails I saw Lynn Riggs had done this and had pictures of his installation. The only thing is the bottom hand holds are just too handy not to have when the aircraft is on floats. It's about the only place you have to tie down the airplane back there and they are a huge help to maneuver it when it's windy. It may be worth some thought to do both, but the weight is a consideration for sure. It's also easy to carry a couple of straps a couple feet long with a loop in one end and do a quick loop around that bottom handle that would make for a decent grip at a reasonable height. The Arctic Tern had handles welded on the top and bottom longerons. Huskys have handles on the leading edge of the horizontal stab close to the fuselage, but I certainly don't want anyone tugging my airplane there either!
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The other thing about them being on the bottom longeron is that if you angle them down slightly, you can sit the tail up on a sawhorse when working on your tailwheel. As to tubing size for the handhold, I used 5/8" x .035" thick.
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This is how the Rans S7 pull handle is-- on the inner leading edge of the horz stab. It's so much more useful than the handle on the lower longeron as the CubCrafters planes that I fly have. What's the opinion on doing this for the BH? Is the horz stab attach stout enough?
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Has anyone added a drag handle to the upper longeron just forward of the stabilizer? As mentioned earlier in this thread, the lower one is great for wrangling a float plane, but for a machine on wheels it's a back breaker to pull it forward of back. My only concern is aerodynamic since it's pretty close to the horz stab. Just curious if this would cause any flow issues?
Last edited by Zzz; 12-03-2016, 11:08 PM.
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My Patrol will sport a handle on the upper longeron. I didn't weld it there, but I would have! Being a former Husky driver, I can state that the higher handles are very handy!
Sorry about that... I couldn't help it..
i can also state that the upper handle, on the longeron, does complicate the covering process.
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We mounted ours on the top longeron, for float flying in the past we used an eyelet that was on the stinger of the 180-185, a tube with a loop welded on to the end of the tube and mounted to the tailwheel mounts on the fuselage would work good and also have something to hold on to while maneuvering around the dock.Last edited by huntaero; 12-04-2016, 11:43 AM.
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Originally posted by Bdflies View PostMy Patrol will sport a handle on the upper longeron. I didn't weld it there, but I would have! Being a former Husky driver, I can state that the higher handles are very handy!
Sorry about that... I couldn't help it..
i can also state that the upper handle, on the longeron, does complicate the covering process.
Bill
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I bought the project from Dick Smith, in Overgaard, Az. Dick bought the "basic fuselage" from Avipro. I know that Dick did a bunch of welding on the fuselage, as did I, so it's my understanding that he welded the handle up top. I'd have put one there anyway. Lower handles are great for lifting the tail. But I'm not man enough to pick it up and walk around with it.
Bill
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