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Making your Bearhawk too light - the best way to ruin a good airplane!

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  • #91
    What is a pound worth? I thought about this in the past and came up with $30. Now, I realize it is much more complicated. I read an article that said a Boeing engineer, and a Cessna engineer both said that a pound out of a production airplane is worth north of $1000.

    What is a pound worth to me? The next question should be, where is that pound? How much is a pound taken out of the tail worth, on a tail-heavy airplane? A lot. How much is a pound taken out of the propellor worth, on the same airplane? Maybe zero, or less than zero. I am never an advocate of adding ballast to an aircraft. Pouring lead into the balance section of the ailerons and elevators of the Bh will be the toughest part of the build for me. It kills me to add weight.

    As builders, we are partners with the designers of the aircraft we build. We are building the idea of another, in this case Bob The 4 place BH is absolutely not CG challenged in any way, unless we are careless, or make choices that the designer did not intend.

    The builder of a Pitts, or RV-3, will probably rightly choose to build the plane so that the solo CG falls within a narrow range that makes the aircraft a pleasure to fly. The Pitts crowd spends a huge amount of money to keep the nose light. The builder of a BH probably chose the airplane to haul people and stuff, either as a X-country airplane, or a bush/floatplane. Same thing for an RV-10, minus the Bush/float mission. If you build either airplane, so that the solo CG is in the middle or the range, you will be severely weight restricted by CG when you try to load it up. To maximize their utility, which I am defining as their ability to be loaded up with people/stuff, the empty CG needs to be as far forward as possible. At a minimum, as close to the forward CG as you can get with your choice of engine/prop. In my case, I am shooting for 1-2 inches forward of the forward CG limit. I won't be disappointed if it ends up 3". I am planning on carrying at least 75# of camping gear in the back of the baggage area on every flight to keep the CG within limits.

    I won't be adding any weight other than an O-540. I will simply keep the back of the airplane as light as possible. There are not a lot of ways to do that. Keeping the baggage area floor and interior light, NOT adding extra weight in fabric and paint. The back of the airplane is mostly primary structure and flight controls.

    The most efficient way to "add weight" to help the CG is the prop. I define efficient as the most effective way to move the CG forward per pound of weight added. I still can't advocate adding weight on purpose. But this thread, started by Battson about the CG effect of changing to a lighter prop, makes me think that changing to a lighter prop is not worth spending money on. If you want to change props to increase performance, go for it. If you want to change props because you broke the last one, or there is something wrong, obviously change the prop. I wouldn't use a heavy prop for its own sake either. I guess for me a pound of weight in the prop isn't worth much. I wouldn't spend money to remove weight from the prop.

    I learned a lot. Thanks to all that contributed, or lurked.



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    • #92
      Originally posted by Bdflies View Post
      I'm not very good at copying and pasting various snippets, but I noticed something that I'd like to clarify.
      If I read correctly, your initial weigh was done with the mains centered 1.5cm fwd of the datum (wing LE). But, the recent weigh shows the mains 55mm (5.5cm) fwd of the datum. If these measurements are correct, which I suspect is probably true, I think I can explain some of your additional tailwheel weight.
      If the aircraft was not level, but tilted back, indicated by the mains being farther fwd of the datum, then more of the weight will be on the tail. Every ounce of the additional maps, tools, parts and residual fuel will bear just a bit more on the tailwheel, as well.
      I'll leave it to you engineers to figure what the additional 4cm might do to the CG. I suspect that difference will be surprising. Jono (I hope you don't mind me using that), if you re-weigh, try to replicate the 1.5cm mains fwd of datum and take out the tools and parts. If your initial weigh was with dry tanks, replicate that as well and point the tailwheel fwd, if that's how it was initially. By the way, you didn't install a bigger tailwheel at some point, did you? We're all curious and staring over your shoulder, from several thousand miles away!

      Bill
      An interesting theory and something which I thought about too. Although in practice it doesn't make much difference.

      You can run the numbers to check. If the tail is 85kg in the three point, and 14 degrees nose down reduces it to 65kg, then that's about 1.4kg per degree. I am assuming it's linear, but you get the point, it's nowhere near enough to account for the difference in CG location.

      You can also run the numbers with the 1.5 and 5.5cm and see that it makes little difference too.

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      • #93
        Originally posted by svyolo View Post
        This thread made me think a lot. Here is the summary.

        1. The BH is not "CG limited". It just can carry so much between its empty weight and gross, that it is easy to get CG limited, before you run out of load. I think all 4 place airplanes have this problem. If you need to carry weight, keep the tail light.

        2. There is not a lot you can do to keep the tail light. The basic structure is already very efficient. Don't install a heavier tailwheel assembly than you need. Unless you are trying to win an award at Oshkosh, or get bragging rights at the next campout, don't put a showplane finish on the airplane. Be careful what you install aft of the CG.

        3. Put the battery on the firewall. Period.

        4. Oratex. The following numbers come from a quote from Bob on Oratex's website. What I wrote is not a quote, but the numbers came from Bob.
        It takes 30 sq yards of Oratex to cover a BH, at a material cost of double what traditional material and paint costs. Assume 25 "installed" yards. That is probably a few yards high, but it makes the mental math easier. 25 yards of Oratex weighs about 8 lbs. Traditional fabric/finish, done light according to Bob, is double that. So 16 lbs. So there goes 8 lbs of useful load, centered 10 feet aft of the CG. That might cost you 12-20 lbs of "CG" affected load in the baggage area. That is about 400 dollars/lb of useful load, or 200-350 dollars/pound of CG affected pounds, compared to "light" traditional fabric. Pretty expensive. Too expensive for me, based only the weight saved. But it also saves me 150-200 hours of labor, and makes repairs a lot quicker. For me, that pushes it over the top, and I am using Oratex.

        A heavy showplace finish could have a fairly painful effect on the useful load of the aircraft because of the aft CG moment of the fabric and paint. But once again, this is about the same problem for all airplanes.

        If I was a scratch builder, and had to justify every dollar spent on my "silly" project to my wife, I would not even consider Oratex. If I was paying a A&P to finish the airplane, Oratex is a bargain. The labor cost saved would be a slam dunk.

        5. A light engine? Just put the engine a little farther forward. You WILL give up some CG, but you will also have a delightfully light, fun airplane to fly. Constant speed prop? Very nice to have, but if you are a scratch builder it might add 25% to the cost of the airplane. If you want to carry more weight, a heavier engine will help you do it, if all other things remain constant.

        6. Did I mention, put the battery on the firewall?

        That is what I have learned. There are not that many decisions to be made aft of the CG. A heavy back seat, and heavy floorboards and aft bulkhead do add weight, but they are not that far aft of the CG. They will cost you weight, pound for pound, but the CG effect is about the same. Basically pound for pound. From the front seats to the firewall, added weight is mostly just added weight. Their moment is not that great. Until you get to the engine (lots of weight), and especially the prop(not as much weight, but more moment), an extra pound in weight doesn't have a huge effect.

        The worst thing you can do for the CG and useful load, is a 100 lbs of paint and fabric.
        I think everyone's plane is slightly be different, depending on their design choices. I wanted to mention a few things in that regard:

        The guys with a three blade metal prop have their battery right in the back, in the tail. They have a forward CG issue despite that.

        You can have a CS prop + governor for as little as $3k or $4k more than a fixed pitch prop, if you shop second-hand like many scratchbuilders do. Not sure how you can figure 25%.

        Bob advised not to move the engine forward any further than he designed, or you will run into the Law of Unintended Consequences.

        Comment


        • #94
          Originally posted by whee View Post
          Adapter: 0.90lbs
          Tapered rod spring: 3.3lbs

          Flat spring: 4.5lbs
          I just wanted to re-post this so a future search will find it. Thanks so much for doing those weights Jon.

          Keywords. Tailwheel weight leaf spring vs tapered rod spring including adapter.

          Comment


          • #95
            Battson,

            How did you level your plane when weighing it? Does Bob specify a specific "line" to be used to achieve the "level flight" attitude? I'm looking in my plans, but not seeing it.

            Sorry for the "sort of" thread hijack...
            Jim Parker
            Farmersville, TX (NE of Dallas)
            RANS S-6ES (E-LSA) with Rotax 912ULS (100 HP)

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            • #96
              Yes ... there is a center-line on the Patrol drawing... a long dashed-line (I do not have my drawings with me right now) If I remember correctly, the floor of the cockpit is parallel to the longitudinal center-line. There is also a measurement showing how far above the bottom of the fuselage the base of the tail-post should be in level flight.

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              • #97
                You level your plane front to back using a section of the lower longeron just aft of the L/G. Mark

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                • #98
                  Forgive me, for I am anel and with little bit of Missouri (The Show Me State) blood running thru my bones. This is on the Patrol Plans p. 1. Datum Level note is at the two O'clock position in relation to the main wheel.
                  Screen Shot 2018-04-06 at 6.45.03 AM.png
                  Brooks Cone
                  Southeast Michigan
                  Patrol #303, Kit build

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                  • #99
                    You can use the lower longeron as noted on the plans. I would verify the measurement there by scaling the distance from the bottom of the tailpost to the thrust line, probably 2 to 3 inches, and using a water level from the center of the prop flange, or the tip of the spinner if the prop is installed back to the measurement below the tailpost. That is how I leveled my Bearhawk to set the wing incidence level.

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                    • Thanks, everyone. I knew the answer was there somewhere. Some days you can't see the forest for the trees...
                      Jim Parker
                      Farmersville, TX (NE of Dallas)
                      RANS S-6ES (E-LSA) with Rotax 912ULS (100 HP)

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                      • Jon, now that you are back in the air, has there been any resolution of the aft cg issue? Has it changed how much you can carry? Sounds like you are happy with the performance.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by rodsmith View Post
                          Jon, now that you are back in the air, has there been any resolution of the aft cg issue? Has it changed how much you can carry? Sounds like you are happy with the performance.
                          At this stage we are just living with it, we have a new young son who takes up most of our time

                          I still plan to move the battery forward and remove the baggage tube. I have done the calculations and the baggage tube is the best way to make a big difference. That change should theoretically allow us to carry four average-size adult men and full fuel once again, instead of three and a half!

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                          • The tail spring is really heavy. I have a model B round spring. I am not sure there isn't a better way. Working on it.

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                            • At some point, there was discussion of a titanium rod tail spring. If someone came up with such, I'd be interested. That would shave a noticeable amount, from the rearmost arm.

                              Bill

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                              • Bill
                                I made a tapered Ti spring for my Patrol, Not flying yet, so can't say it is successful, but it is pretty soft compared to the steel one.

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                                • Archer39J
                                  Archer39J commented
                                  Editing a comment
                                  What kind of titanium did you use. 1.5 lbs at that STA is appealing...
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