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Shock Strut Rubber Boots

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  • Shock Strut Rubber Boots

    Has anyone found a suitable rubber product for making the rubber boots around the main landing gear shock struts, as outlined by Bob in the Beartracks? I tried what I thought was the right stuff, but it only lasted a few months. I suspect that this is partly because of the petroleum and exhaust exposure.

  • #2
    Just a wild out-there thought, would a CV boot do the trick? Not sure of the typical diameter of a drive shaft in comparison to the shock strut, but it’s certainly subject to lubricants over its life.
    Christopher Owens
    Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
    Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
    Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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    • #3
      Chris;
      Sounds like a winner. I have seen them in silicone, many that looked like just rubber, to semi-hard plastic. CV boots are cheap.

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      • #4
        Has somebody figured out a particular boot that can be made to fit?

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        • #5
          I'm watching this thread in anticipation! This has been an issue that's been on my mind since the first flight.
          CV boots are a great idea. I once replaced a set of VW boots with some 'split' boots. I might try to find a set of those.

          Bill

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          • #6
            I got rubber sheet (neoprene) from ACS. I can't tell you how it holds up as it's not operational yet, but it's advertised to be fuel and oil resistant and I wanted something low profile. I cut holes slightly smaller than the shock struts then pushed them up through it so it's mostly out of the breeze.

            I mainly mention this so that if someone has tried it and found it unsatisfactory they can tell me now :-)

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            • #7
              I used "High Temp Black Silicone Rubber Sheet 1/32" thick - 40 durometer." It didn't feel like it was breaking down, it just split/broke.

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              • #8
                stinger wanted me to post a picture of his solution on the LSA. I’m sure he’ll chime in if you want details.

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                • #9
                  After mucking around with boots for a few years, I went with a flush rubber solution like the post above. The boots wore out, this solution did not. This is much cleaner aerodynamically, visually, and vastly easier to fabricate and install / replace. I have never needed to replace it.

                  I simply cut and folded the rubber so it overlaps on itself where the cut is. I put the doubler plate on the inside for better visual effect, but later realised it was unnecessary. Screws and washers are enough, there is no force on it.

                  I used an exterior roofing rubber from the local hardware store, it is plenty durable enough and chemical resistant. It is very effective at keeping exhaust gas out of the fuselage.

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                  • #10
                    This was the thing I worried over the most of all of the construction. I bought a bunch of different rubber shifter boots but all were to stiff and bulky. I didn’t want to connect anything to the shock tube itself. I wanted to attach the top of the cover to the rod end/piston shaft area and drape a “cone” over the upper part of the shock and flare it out to attach to the underside of the cowl. It would allow the shock to move independant of the cover but shield out the unwanted. I’m not happy with what I found but will see how long it will last. I used some cheap thin crap imitation leather shifter boot cover but it fit well enough to assemble it the way I wanted. The opening in the cowl is large to allow the material spread out without too many wrinkles as it’s tucked and spread out underneath. The cover that holds it in place has a much smaller opening which shields all of the boot and just allows the pattern of travel of the strut. The only time it would touch the cover would be when it’s fully retracted. At least I can move on and search for something better while this is in place. It was difficult to find something that would work and be soft enough not to interfer with the control tube. Actually the cover will probably get more wear and tear from the control tube at either end of travel than the strut. That’s the plan.

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                    • #11


                      I used a universal CV boot with minimal modification.

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