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Engine cable controls - placement ...a bit longish!

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  • Engine cable controls - placement ...a bit longish!

    Reaching out to those with experience flying with throttle, prop and mixture controls. My situation is that I would like to place the associated control cables/knobs on a separate small sub-panel. Main panel on the Patrol is at a premium with a 10" Dynon HDX and Garmin GPS175. Therefore I feel the need for the sub-panel. When I did a test fit with seating and control stick movement I felt that the sub-panel if sized for all three knobs/cables would be a bit too large for my proposed location. Sub-panel with two knobs is better but would necessitate putting the other control cable/knob on the main panel. (See the pic for concept). My question to those who may have an opinion...

    Do I put the prop on the sub-panel next to the throttle, and the mixture on the main panel or have the mixture alongside the throttle on the sub-panel? I simply don't have a clue on which control knob is adjusted most frequently during typical flights of various kind. Cruise versus pattern work, short hops, short flights, etc. and what may be a better ergonomic position/flow.

    My gut is telling me throttle and prop on the sub-panel, let me have your thoughts and suggestions please. I'd be grateful!

    subpanel with engine controls.jpg

    Dave (from Maine)

  • #2
    I'd put the throttle and prop together with the throttle in the most ergonomic position. You'll use the mixture control the least so it can be further away.
    4-Place QB kit #111. First flight May 2022.
    IO-470 - 260hp

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    • #3
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      This gallery has 2 photos.

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      • DBeaulieu
        DBeaulieu commented
        Editing a comment
        Steve W - That idea is a possibility. More of a triangular shaped sub-panel with mixture below throttle and prop.. Saves the panel space on the main, and may still allow for unimpeded exit from the left side door on my seaplane version. Got me thinking (again) Thanks for posting

      • Steve W
        Steve W commented
        Editing a comment
        I put everything on the right, headphone jacks, rudder retract cable, emergency hand pump so the left side is less impeded. I also put the baggage door on the left. Only thing on the lower left dash is the amphib control panel. I tried to get it out of the way the best I could. Only draw back for the QB is that the little sub dash is steel and welded in place.

    • #4
      Here’s what I’m doing in the LSA. Final holes not drilled yet but you get the idea. Carb heat above mixture. Mic jacks in two small holes near bottom. .

      IMG_1437.jpg IMG_1366.jpg

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      • DBeaulieu
        DBeaulieu commented
        Editing a comment
        arborite - Got seaplane version, door on left side makes it a PITA to configure throttle quadrant on side. Otherwise, that's the way to go I think. Thanks for posting pic.

    • #5
      Originally posted by arborite View Post
      Here’s what I’m doing in the LSA. Final holes not drilled yet but you get the idea. Carb heat above mixture. Mic jacks in two small holes near bottom. .

      IMG_1437.jpg IMG_1366.jpg
      flap handle interference?

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      • #6
        Originally posted by TimTall View Post
        I'd put the throttle and prop together with the throttle in the most ergonomic position. You'll use the mixture control the least so it can be further away.
        This ^

        Or have all three close together, that's the best.

        In turbulence you can put a lot of unintentional loads on those controls, especially throttle. I suggest you want it close to something very solid.

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        • #7
          Thanks everyone for the input...it got me rethinking some things and this is what I templated out this afternoon at the hangar. Throttle and mixture knobs are shown slightly oversized and match the prop knob which is the largest diameter knob dimension. Spacing between the throttle and prop knob is same as on a Cessna 182. Throttle to mixture distance is less than what was on the 182 between the prop and mixture knobs I measured. The 182 layout of the knobs were in a horizontal pattern; throttle, prop, mixture (left to right) I think this may be my solution, though I hadn't considered flap handle clearance which I will check out tomorrow. I can also trim the pilot control stick down another 1/2" to allow more clearance if necessary for cold weather flying with gloves. Comments welcome!

          Engine control sub panel.jpg

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          • #8
            Something to think about. Tall people need these corner clearances to get in. The knees go through that space.
            Bearhawk "XHawk" Patrol, O-360, Trailblazer 80", tubeless 26" Goodyears, Stewart Systems. See XHawk Build Log.

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            • #9
              Originally posted by Skyward II View Post

              flap handle interference?
              No flaps on LSA.

              regarding knee clearance, I was worried about that and did a lot of trials to see what worked. The one in my picture had no issues for me. I’m pretty long legged.

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              • #10
                Originally posted by DBeaulieu View Post
                Thanks everyone for the input...it got me rethinking some things and this is what I templated out this afternoon at the hangar. Throttle and mixture knobs are shown slightly oversized and match the prop knob which is the largest diameter knob dimension. Spacing between the throttle and prop knob is same as on a Cessna 182.
                The space you have is precious! I think finger fatness of the flyer (haha...Flyer Finger Fatness) drives the margins between a knob outer edge. So get some real knobs and do some testing. I did that.

                And so I wonder if knobs with smaller diameter might be a best practice for this installation to conserve space. That might mean simpler cables. They will probably be less expensive, lighter, and easier to install. After flying my Patrol with a panel that is somewhat similar, small knobs would be okay with me. I have two cables with biggish knobs and one that is small. The small one is just fine and I see others with similar installations.

                The red arrow is on the former where the door closes. The door will not consume all that space of the fuselage former. So consider crowding the outboard engine control that direction.

                Screenshot 2025-09-12 at 4.08.16 PM.png

                Brooks Cone
                Southeast Michigan
                Patrol #303, Kit build

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                • #11
                  Bcone1381 Thanks for that input Brooks, I can likely move those cables/knobs over another inch. I was wondering if the door frame/slash window latch might be problematic with throttle and mixture operation (due to hand on knobs and possibly against door/window parts) Guess I'll hang the door and window and see. Today I put the front seat in and verified no interference with ingress/egress, the stick has good clearance, and so does the flap handle. Interesting potential problem, which maybe you can address for me (see pic). With flap at 3rd detent and control stick at left throw, my leg is the limiting factor as it is getting squished between the flap handle and control! Until I hook up the flight controls, I have no idea if this will be an issue operationally. Any thoughts?

                  Flaps and stick and sub panel.jpg

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                  • Bcone1381
                    Bcone1381 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    The Stick-knee-flap handle issue you have not a problem. I never have given that a thought. I assume you have the stick installed without the ailerons hooked up. When the ailerons are hooked up and they are rigged the stick wont go over that far. The real issue is pulling the flap handle without busting your knuckles, and you are going about it the right way.

                • #12
                  I think this is the final design. Moved control cables over 1/2", cut away a bit more material and used 0.90" 6061 Al. Fits in better than the picture shows. Thanks for all the input "Bearhawkers"


                  subpanel1.jpg

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                  • #13
                    Or use a front mount quadrant and let it hang slightly into the left door space.

                    Throttle Quadrants For RV- Model Cmct3L These quadrants are made from aircraft quality anodized aluminum for long life and corrosion resistance. Brass friction plates are adjustable to fit individual preferences.
                    Last edited by 500AGL; 09-20-2025, 07:38 PM.

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