Kit #7 arrived

[Utah-Jay]

Thanks David, I will look at that tomorrow. I do want the fuse on the cabin side of the firewall, so not a lot of wiggle room.

[David Swartzendruber]

Jay,
I have an unsolicited comment. I see that your inline fuse to regulator terminal 3 is right next to the regulator. It is unclear how far away you are picking up power to go to the fuse, but only the last section of wire between the fuse and terminal 3 are protected by the fuse. All the wire on the upstream side of the fuse is unprotected. The fuse should be located physically close to the source of the power to limit the amount of unprotected wire.
David

[Utah-Jay]

It was a general get stuff done day today.

Believe it or not, I am a terrible procrastinator, and today was the day I finally torqued the engine mounts to 37 ft.lbs. Not an easy job as it is a tight fit on the bottom two.
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Today was alternator day, to begin with I re-did the safety wire on the mount as it was a bit shoddy

I wired and connected as much as possible on the Voltage Regulator prior to mounting it on the firewall
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Mounted the regulator on the firewall and attached all wires both to and from, field from the alternator, field to my D-Sub, both ground to the ground buss and the 2amp inline fuse in the wire to the main power buss
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Mounted and wired both positive and negative to the behind the panel USB plug which will power both my in cockpit GoPro and the Mini iPad on the panel. Mini iPad mount also has a fan.

[Utah-Jay]

I decided it would be dangerous to start cutting wires and connecting/splicing wires before I had a solid plan for how the wires would be routed so as to have known wire lengths to deal with. So today I put fasteners on the firewall, mocked up standoffs for the engine mount and ran the wires through sleeves to make everything very clean.

Here is a photo of how my mentor made a standoff using high temp zip ties and a cut piece of hose
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I will use this method to make standoffs from the engine mount, here are my temporary attach points to get create my wire routing.

Here are photos of the routing and sleeves I am using to keep thing clean looking.
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The above (last photo) will have the red/white/black wires spliced to the yellow/black/red wires and the sleeve will be slid to the left through the zip tie location. All zip ties will be high temp zip ties, the ones you see are GripTies that are easily removable.

I am trying to be as creative as possible to make things as clean looking as possible.

[Utah-Jay]

Left wing wires are all plugged into the D-Subs, only took half the time as the right wing.
Finished up the ground and power to my start key switch
Laid out the wire routing for the EMS wires

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[Utah-Jay]

Sir Newton I am lucky, friends have the tools so I am just borrowing them

[Sir Newton]

D sub connectors. I developed a method of soldering all those pins. Couldn't justify buying those iver priced crimping tools.

[Utah-Jay]

Lots of notes on what initially looked like Chinese math, but amazingly I understand this stuff now
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[Utah-Jay]

I finalized the wire routing for my EMS wires
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I fished my right wing wires down the sleeve that goes in front of the right door.
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I ran 18ga shielded wires, two were 4 conduit for the wingtip and landing/taxi lights, and a single for the GoPro power supply box. Wingtip and landing lights all had to be downsized and several split for two pins of power supply. I used solder sleeves as per Dynon to splice and downsize
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Tomorrow will be the left wing which will load into the same two D-Subs

[Sir Newton]

I just install the red cube on my Mustang 2. Just running the FC-10 controller for now. However what an awesome product.two thumbs up.,

[Utah-Jay]

jaredyates

I was planning on hanging it from the threads as it feels very secure. My buddy built his CC that way.

Thoughts?

[jaredyates]

Are you going to fabricate a bracket to catch the mounting holes, or just hang it from the threads?

[Utah-Jay]

Photos of the gold cube

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Working on power wiring
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[Utah-Jay]

I have been working on wiring and control cables. Had to use a step drill to upsize the Throttle hole in the panel to 3/4” for the vernier assist and 5/16” for the mixture. I used a sphere passthrough for the Throttle as the diameter was larger, and none-slip passthrough for the other controls. The other controls all had a sleeve to fit the compression passthrough.

I also installed the fuel line firewall passthrough and installed the EI Gold Cube fuel flow meter (forgot to take a photo)
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[rodsmith]

I duplicated this kit for about $25, I needed two of them. Easy if you have a tig for welding the stainless.