New profile posts

Battson I really like the way you did your doors with the plastic lowers instead of fabric. What type plastic did you use, plexiglass, Lexan or something else? Also was it 1/8 thick? I'm assuming you screwed it directly to the door tubing, if not how did you mount it? Thank you so much for all your input on the forum, builders like me couldn't do it without knowledge from veteran builders like you.
Battson
Battson
Hi Tim, it's plexiglass and it's been a great material choice. Robust enough to resist scratching but not too brittle.
It's about 3mm thick (1/8th). I did attach it directly to the doors, with little angle sections made of 0.025" Al 2025. Those are screwed or rivetted to the doors. No fasteners go directly into the plexi.
Thanks for the kind words, I just struggled a lot with my build and want to save others the same headaches.
Hi Mark, I did get your e-mail, but lost it before I could answer and apparently I lost your address too. Anyway, thank you for the offer to visit and a glider ride. Not sure if we'll have time or not. Headed to Johnson Creek this morning through the 4th and right now we plan on doing a 100 hour inspection before we head off to OSH. Just spent the last two weeks working through a P-Mag issue and an alternator problem ( alt on both planes ) so I guess it depends on what issues we may or may not find. I was hoping we might be able to go to Arlington for a day also. Ii'll keep in touch, Thanks again, D-n-D
Great, I was checking on the shipping price for the other pair yesterday which came to $13.60 in a flat rate box. I can take a check or paypal, your choice.
W
Wes Helm Bearhawk 1209
paypal is fine with me if you want to send me a invoice. weshelm@ymail.com thanks wes
CJ here is a photo of the plastic panel, the insulation we used and the fabric. you could glue the fabric right to the panels if you wanted. I wanted that stitched quilted look, so I used the thicker insulation to do it.
I struggle to place more photos of my interior. if you are on facebook you can go to my page, there are a lot of photos or els you can email me riegerst@gds.co.za. regards Gerhard
Donna
Help me understand the plastic panels. Did you glue them to the back of aluminum panels or use it for the actual panel? It sounds interesting and I'm trying how I could add some sound proofing without adding to much weight. I have aluminum panels that I am putting in.
CJ
Flygirl1
Flygirl1
CJ, the panels are stiff enough to use on their own. You can get them is various thicknesses and I think ours are 1/8 inch. Being corrugated really helps make them stiff and easy, sort of, to cut to fit. I had intended on using velcro to keep them in place, but that wasn't necessary. The seats and other things like the toppers and carpet help keep them in place. I looked for the lightest soundproofing/insulation I could find and without headsets I'm not sure it did any good. Haven't flown in a Patrol without it yet. Anyway we sewed the insulation onto the outer fabric and then glued that with spray glue to the plastic panel, then we formed I think it was .025 aluminum panels toppers and covered them in a matching vinyl. It still also adds considerable weight, but the combination prop/engine set up we have, it just doesn't seem to matter. Although, being a smaller frame pilot than most, I had extra room for the extra weight. ;-) If you'd like I can find those photo's and post them. Are you intending on covering your aluminum panels? Another idea I had was to use aluminum and spray it with flex seal and then paint it the color of my choice. It gives a really nice leather type look finish. I used it on my glare shield and on my flap and control sticks. (black) But I did a "burn" test and it failed. I tested the insulation we used, which is a cotton blue jean type 1/4 inch aluminum backed fabric from Home Depot. It passed a burn test really well. Just something to keep in mind. D.
Thanks Jim. I'll look at that idea. It's kind of a catch 22, I want the doors to fit tight but with the edge trying to cut the fabric I can't open the cargo door 90deg to the fuselage. I was also thinking about taking my dermal and rounding out that point on the edge of the door. Still not sure.
Hi Mark, I have a 4 blade MT-Prop, 76' how durable are the composite props on gravel in comparison to aluminum?
Thanks for the info. I will be awhile before I ready for tires like the ones you have so hopefully I will be able to make up my mind about what I want. LOL

CJ
Hi everyone, like most builders there are many things we need at different times in the build process. I will eventually need the flying wires from Steen and despite the crazy price even Bob Barrows recommended them. They also have a long lead time. So I'm checking to see if there are others interested in a group buy. I am building a 4 place and the single buy is considerably more than the group rate. So if any of you are interested please let me know as i will be placing an order in the next month or so. Thanks and keep making progress!
Jim;

I know right where you are talking about. Today when you drive east on Washington, across Freer Rd, there is a dirt rd that leads into a what I will call a subdivision. The homes have very large lots....maybe 5 acres each. Just to the south is the "New High School" which was built in about 1998.

I don't know Jim Linder. In fact, I don't feel like I am well connected with any aviation community in Chelsea. But I have lived here for 23 years. I fly for FedEx, and am gone quite a bit, so when I am home, I always focused on the kids and the family. Now the youngest is in college. So, my wife is better connected with the community than I am.

I live 6 miles Northwest of town. Just off Waterloo Rd, near Bush Rd., just east of Sugerloaf Lake.

Brooks
<<<<<
The other thing the FAA did was give Dennis a different quote. I have more ratings and about 1000 hrs more tail wheel time and he will pay about $150 less than me. Like i said--laugh or you will cry.:) D>>>>>

I chuckled a bit reading your post above......and whispered to myself "because we have boobies".
Flygirl1
Flygirl1
Yea, I guess that falls in the "more equipment" category!
Always wanted to fly, getting ready to build 4 seat Bearhawk - Cant believe there are only 5 other builders/flyers's in Idaho of Bearhawks.. I live west of Boise and actually about a half dozen miles from KitFox.. but decided to go with Bearhawk for the seating, the utility and speed... As long as it's US made right..?
Dad of 5, married to great wife, who I talked into letting me get my PPL at an airshow in Hill Air Force Base..to preface it... i have wanted to fly since I was a preteen, and she has always said she doesn't want me flying because its too dangerous.. sooo.. watching a female acrobatic pilot, I asked what if one of our girls wanted to become a pilot.. She thought about it and said well, if that's what they want to do and they are sure about it, I guess they could.. Then I smiled and said well then I can get mine then right? BINGO.. got her!
My youngest, always points out to me every plane and helicopter in the sky and she's 2.. So I think I found my fellow pilot in my family...lol

Avatar is from snowmobiling into Yellowstone this past winter (Dec 2016) at -38F below zero! and -74F windchill (search and rescue doesn't even operate in the park till its -20F or warmer..)
Kestrel,
I'm a new member and browsing through passed conversations I came across this one. I bought a Bearhawk 4 plc. and hope to put it on skis this winter. I have a set of the DATUM 2500 skis I took off of my WAG AERO 2+2 that I hope to use. What size DATUM skis are yours??????? Is there any special fabrication that needs to be done??????? How well do your skis float your machine??????? I live in northern Michigan and our snow can be powder to very sticky depending on the temp and moisture. It look like your in the west and are in a dryer area than we are. But ski flying is the best way to enjoy winter that I know of.
Jim Lindner
kestrel
kestrel
JIm,

Sorry I don't get into here often, but it seems we connected over email. Not sure you how guessed out west, I'm based at NH16 in southern NH. We get a wide variety of snow. ...but not much over the past two winters when I've had skis. I'll work on getting some pictures and other notes for you.

Cheers!
Ty
G
Кто не играет, тот не пьет шампанского.Форум казиноСайт игорного оборудования!
I would like to talk with you if possible about your ac just thinking about building , I have and RV-8 now and a Aerotreck .
My name is Chuck McCurry 970-379-6805
Flygirl1
Flygirl1
Sure thing Chuck. My cell # is 541-654-3861& Dennis' is 541-357-0997. Or we can be reached at home at 541-942-8044 in the evenings. Kinda hard to reach during the day. My cell phone is either out of battery, turned off or I don't know where it is. Did you build your RV-8? We both love our planes and how they perform with the io-360 installed. Donna
G
Тут есть накрутка друзей, раскрутка группы качественно. Продвижение в Инстаграм и т.д.. А также тут можете купить подписчиков на сообщество, раскрутить за деньги паблик. Сайт: лайки на фото в вконтакте бесплатно
No problem. Just let me know...
tbaylx
tbaylx
Sold then. Paypal okay for payment? Just let me know what email you want it sent to.
No the guy that wanted the kit had different ideas for his tail wheel. So yes and it is new in the box and I was asking $575 if you know anyone interested. Also thanks for the help.

I don't know if you want to delete it but the 4place kit for sale that was started by Big Cat was the kit that I had purchased. Just my opinion but it looks to me that the classifieds could stand to be cleaned up.
Hi Marcus

Sorry I have been away from this forum for a couple of Days, tonight would be OK thursday, I am on days this week home around 4 PM.
Where are you located, what engine, avionics and what are you asking for it.

Thanks, Rod
HI Mark,
Do you still have sets of airfoil shaped rib mods? If so, can I buy some, and if not, where can I get them? Thanks so much.

Greg Marlow
Greg_Marlow
Greg_Marlow
How's it going on those horizontal stab rib mods?

Thanks,
Greg
Hi! Thanks -- I just saw your post in response to mine about the beekeeping. I hadn't logged on recently so I didn't see it sooner. Big fan of Wright brothers history.
Hello, read on the forums that you can convert a pdf file of the four place panel to a cad file I can use to use a water jet to cut my panel. Could you do that for me?

Please email me at gregmarlow@charter.net

Thanks,
Greg
Bill, WOW, didn't realize you were so close to first flight. I'm excited for you!! Frustrating knowing you could, but Can't. We are there now with the WX.

Here is what I have--24/24 @ 7000 155 MPH TAS and @ 3500 141 MPH indicated. At 69% power-138 MPH indicated @ 3500. At 23/23 @ 5000 148 MPH TAS. Stall @ 3500 ft 42MPH indicated, no flaps. was extremely gentle and due to a slight roll issue it fell off to the right a bit. ( these #'s are a combination of mine and Dennis' ) They could change slightly once rigging is complete. Were close, but it appears we might need a rudder tab for trim. The vertical offset seems to be greater than necessary and we have been pulling the back half over with the wires and that has helped a lot. Our flights are mostly at 75% power for break in, so we haven't explored slow flight much. Take off performance is awesome with the whirlwind prop and I'm getting 12 to 1500 fpm in climb out with 85 to 90 indicated and that's not full power most times. I'm not one to throw in all the power quickly, at least until I get some time on this engine.

Another huge issue is the flaps, I can't use them past two notches. I did manage 3 twice, but at 55 indicated and wallowing around low and slow on final, trying to trim so i can take my hand off the stick for two hands on the flap, well you get the picture--not good. Anyway it was a nice and short landing around 3 to 400 ft. We've extended the flap handle as much as we could for room, 3 in., but I've only had one flight since and didn't get the plane slowed enough on the first landing and the 2nd one back home was basically an emergency flight due to a battery issue. I was loosing it and my Skyview was threatening to quit so I just wanted on the ground ASAP. ( Lady DY pretty much yelled at me the whole flight home and a big red line across the screen said "AIRCRAFT POWER LOSS". ) We have dual P-mags, so the engine will run without battery, but only above a certain RPM, which is about 900 on the ground. As long as your inflight idle is above that your OK. Shame on me, I haven't tested that yet, thinking not having my battery would ever be an issue. In 28 yrs of flying, it never has. Anyway, four notches is an impossibility for me I'm afraid and I'm really disappointed in that fact. I'll never be able to get full use of the plane, but I didn't have any before so 3 will do. My point is the landing roll should be really short for those of you who can get the 4th notch. The rest of us are going to have to practice with 3.

Mark asked us once for as many photos as we had of the project, they were trying to put together a better build manual. I told him careful what you ask for and sent him about 3000 photo's. :rolleyes: I tried to keep this a short as possible, so sorry if it's too much of not what your looking for. Because of the battery issue, just happened yesterday, I am grounded until I figure out what went wrong. We have 12 hours on the engine and I think not too many more and I'll get serious about exploring all she can do. The moral to this story is you can tell your friends it's an awesome little bird that really preforms. In my opinion it was well worth the time and $$ spent. Donna
Flygirl1
Flygirl1
Your welcome Mr. Bill.☺️ Battson has a post on how he extended his flap handle. Apparently he has a lot more room to extend further than we could and he is very happy with the results. Part of my problem is my seat is as far forward as you can get, which puts the flap handle at a closer spot in the pull. Meaning I'm losing my leverage. Yea, a trip to the gym, or it's time to get out there and start cutting, splitting,hauling and stacking the wood.🙂
Bdflies
Bdflies
A thought just entered my empty mind. If, after much effort and adaptation, you're not able to pull the last notch of flaps, why not retrofit an electric actuator? Wouldn't be hard at all. Maybe a project for next winter!

Bill
Flygirl1
Flygirl1
That’s a good thought. Somebody else mentioned retrofitting a hydraulic system. I can’t imagine it, but they did. I wish I had realized the problem earlier. Seems it would have been a good thing to address when building. Another thought is finding yourself in a position where a go around is necessary and not being able to release the flaps after adding power. I think electric would come in handy in that situation.
Jim;

I just saw your post about Advanced Pilot Seminars. I am familiar with them, but not much more than that. Are you going to use Fuel Injection in your Patrol? If so, what system. I am on the fence about a Carb/Fuel Injection. I read on vansairforce.com about the SDS system. Consider complexities it ads to return fuel to the tank.... I recently stumble back to the Precision Airmotive Silver Hawk FI that does not require fuel to be returned to the tank.

Anyway, I would be interested in knowing what you are planning, especially since attending the seminar.

Brooks Cone.
JimParker256
JimParker256
Do me a favor, and contact me via email (Jim at PoogieBearRanch dot com) and I'll fill you in on my plans. I'm about to go flying, and don't want to forget about your question.

Thanks!
Good evening I currently own Plans built Bearhawk 357 in langley BC Canada -aka the RoverHawk -
I have just decided to put it up for sale - This Bearhawk is powered by a 300 hp landrover v8 auto conversion
Performance is equal to a 260 hp lycoming with better take off performance and 6 GPH fuel burn
If you are interested let me know thanks Darcy
darcy.evans@shaw.ca
Sorry I should have put the address. CJ Sebastian PO Box 155 Baytown, TX 77522. Will do on the insurance.
Welcome back to Utah/Arizona. I live near SLC and spent a year in Afghanistan flying the AH-64A. And am at the 90% done and 90% to go phase on a QB 4 place kit. If you're interested, send me a PM and I'll show you what you've got to look forward to.
brady.blake55
brady.blake55
Good to know I'm not the only 64 guy around. Were you in the 211th in West Jordan? I was an armament guy there. I'd love to see what all your hard work looks like some time.
Pay the gas and we could do some tailwheel training in the Citabria.
Chris In Wisconsin
Chris In Wisconsin
Thanks for the offer! Much appreciated. I am tailwheel endorsed, and actually received my training in a Citabria in Wausau. Great fun, that plane. Time to get proficient in this Maule now!
Chris In Wisconsin
Chris In Wisconsin
I'm surprised by the number of folks who have offered tailwheel training to the community as of late. It's nice to see that this flying is still alive and well. You may have to travel to find it, but it's out there. I've had five offers this week, including yours. Thanks so much!
Hi Jonathan
I am sorry not expressing me correctly
I did enter your POH from the link at the forum
The table 2-3 have two boxes with wrong temperature conversion and reading of C instead of F.
It is the oil and CHT boxes in the table if I am not wrong.

Keep up posting your video ,modification and advices.
It is of very good value and inspiration for the builders.

Regards Bjorn
Battson
Battson
Thanks for the information Bjorn, I will have a look and make corrections if there are mistakes. Good to know!
I was going through flap discussion posts and found you were contemplating an inboard flap extension. I think that will help quite a bit, you get more flap area, and, you get an end plate effect off the fuselage which should be like adding another ~50% to the new extension. Did you make the extension yet?
nichzimmerman
nichzimmerman
Hi, sorry for the VERY delayed response. In January I bought a 100 year old house and restored the whole thing, and now I'm finally back to bearhawk building! I have constructed my flaps to eliminate most of the gap between them and the fuselage. I basically built the flap exactly per the plans but added an extra bay inboard. I left is so that if I ever change my mind I can literally cut off the extra with a band saw and have a regular plans-built flap leftover. I don't recall exactly how long I built them, but I can send you any info that may be applicable to you.
Hey Peter, just curious--what part of Australia are you from. I have family in Adelaide. Donna
Peter Bishton
Peter Bishton
Donna i am at morpeth, 30kms upstream (18 miles) from newcastle on the hunter river (at phoenix park) 160kms (100 miles) north of syndey in NSW.
I am slowly building a 4 seater. my dad is bulding a riblett wing out of timber but with a diffferent set of numnbers than the one bob barrows has chosen. the guys get the riblertt nomeclautre mixed up. GA 30-413.5 with the GA 30 being the series. the next digit is the lift coeff at crusie but without the decimal. ie 4 is 0.4 at cruise. the guys in the chat talk and paul dye get it mixed up with the camber. its not the camber digit. tthe next digits 13.5 is the maximum thicmness. anyway we are using GA30-313.5 with the difference is the lift coeeff at cruise is 0.3
in 1996 my dad was liaising with harry riblett via many hand written letters over a new wing for the Wittman W8 - first flew in 1978 . thats about the time bob built the first 4 seater (1995). by 1998 i built 27/28 timber ribs for dad to help expedite the process. i would do one out of timber every nigth. he showed me how to do the first one. we lived 3 hrs apart. anyway it gave more performance at stall (slower flight) more top end speed and more rate of climb.

I am realy imrpessed with your Patrols. you certianly have done an execellant job. also i l really like the gas strut you installed to keep the window open. its good stuff you share with the forum - and well done you have two superb aircraft. the paint scheme is a beauty too.
i opened packages from Avipro the other day with vettermaen exhaust for my 0360, full engine mount, rudder pedals, controls tick assmebly, rear seat, main fuel tanks, fuel tank caps, all rwally well built by Mark's factory. I am tryign to buy antyhting now I can to expedite the build.
Talk soon. who is in Adelaide, you mum and dad or siblings?
Are you an Aussie?
Peter
Luke can you send me a photo I am interested Peter plans #1134 4 place
Luke68
Luke68
Peter
Do you have an email address? Can't seem to get my iPad to post a picture on here.
Just how did you accomplish the smooth tape? small short pieces?
Bdflies
Bdflies
Yep! Several short pieces that overlap. Smooth each one down, before starting the next one.
Got a question for you, you did the flight testing for Mel on 6MK correct?
do you have the results of the tests that you did for his plane stall speed best glide etc. My regular email is chodges@alaskan.com if you'd like to use it. I want to see how it compares to what we get with the Bush wheels on. Any information you've got would be muchly appreciated thanks Craig
Just add another $10 to the price and I'll take care of the rest. About 30 Canadian for the Expedited Post so I'll send it that way. If it gets any colder up here this month, I may hand deliver!
Let me know when its in the mail and I'll post at this end. Thanks

Steve Whitenect
28954418 RR 251
Sturgeon County, Alberta
Canada
T8T0C7
D
duderu
Ok.. and send it the cheapest way possible... no expediting needed as I won't be doing any welding until the end of January anyway. And you're welcome out anytime and I can put you up. We usually get the Jet Skis fired up around March. ;-]
Hi lsa140

Thanks for all the good info in your posts. It takes a lot of mystery out of the plans, I wanted t ask you what you did about the aileron pulley brackets that weld to the landing gear attach point. The plans are not very clear on that. It only gives 2 views but it does not break them out as a separate part. I used what I could see from the plans to draw what I think the part looks like alone. Can you tell me how you made tha parts and how they are attached to the lower longeron? Maybe post a picture if you have it?

Thanks,
David Swann DavzLSA
lsa140
lsa140
I missed your message... I haven't got this far. Did you end up finding the info you needed? Looking forward to seeing that Corvair running on the LSA.
Hi Mark...my name is Ed grier.Just collecting parts to start a pa20 stretch.Would really like to use aoss gear but just not in my budget so am thinking the trimmer style building it myself.
Have a bunch of questions with regard to what gear you have wheather you built it oleo attatch dimentions etc.
I would very much like to speak with you on the phone if you are open to that...my number us 6047417410...or if you would like to share your #and an approoriate time to call your info would be extremely helpfull.
Regards Ed
Hi Mark. Bill Delcambre here (Bdflies). Ron asked me to reply (Ron isn't very computer savvy..). He doesn't have a PayPal acct. if it's alright with you, mail a check for the pitot to;

Ron Burleigh
2259 Hwy 178
Sunset, La. 70584

Send your shipping address and he'll ship it to you.

Thanks!

Bill
Hi Glenn. I agree with your well thought out analysis of scratch building versus our kit. FYI- over the years I have looked MANY times at how much scratch builders pay themselves to make parts that we sell. It is always in the $3 to $6 per hour. Your $6 an hour is the upper end of the pay scale when it comes to scratch building. Only one exception to that. One time Bob Barrows and I calculated how long it takes Bob to make a set of wing ribs versus what we sell them for. Just the ribs. Bob does it for $9 an hour. I thought you would find my research interesting and basically a conformation. Your "consumables" numbers are something most of us do not think about. Thanks, and good luck getting finished and flying. Mark
Hello Kestrel,
I was doing some reading on the forum's archives lately, and I am intrigued by your electric flaps setup, as well as your extra fuel capacity.
For the flaps, I'm thinking it would make it more user and workload friendly, it would free up some floor space up front, and it would eliminate what I've read about the flap handle forces being pretty high for the last notch.
Could you please elaborate on your setup and how you like it. Is it just an up or down switch (like Comanches), or does it do preselected settings like the Cessnas?
How much extra empty weight do you think your flap motor and linkages weight, or do you think it's negligible? Since this is all overhead, do you think it lessens the headroom vs. if it were built per plans? And have they been trouble-free thus far for you?

For the fuel, it's just a matter of figuring out how to install the tanks, but I'm curious how much you thing they weigh vs. normal aux tanks, and do you get any extra gross weight because of the weight being out in the wings, like a few different airplanes benefit from?

Thanks for your time and information,

Zac Weidner
Eric, obviously been a while since I have checked the forum. I do still have the wing spar set if you are still interested
Hey Mark. I have your tail surfaces here in Austin. I can not find your email address so I am posting this private message. Shoot me an email and let me know how you want this shipped. Thanks. Mark G
Hello Mark,

As a fellow shortwing pilot, I thought I'd ask you a few questions if you don't mind. It appears you're putting the 300HP Continental in your project, may I ask why? Are you going for better takeoff performance, better cruise, higher GW? I'm most concerned with GW and cruise speeds, but I'd probably lean towards a 300hp version of the IO-540.
What are some of the reasons you chose the BH over a 185, when the 185 seems to carry more and be a tad faster?
The main reason I'm leaning towards the BH is that it's brand new vs. a 40-50 year old airframe that has probably been beat up and stressed to the max plenty of times. There's a reason the airlines have theirs in a boneyard after so many hours or cycles.

Perhaps you could settle a few of the discrepancies I have noticed of the BH (I was around them just enough at KOSH to make a few first impressions). I didn't like the ease of entry (read that lack of), even though I'm only 23, but I know older passengers will probably have a hard time getting in and out. I also wasn't a big fan of the door setup. They seem a bit too tedious and time consuming to open and might not seal very well with the pin setup instead of a regular latch system.

Thanks for your time and happy building!
I agree with the other folks who said "buy the plane and swap out the engine." And if you do go that route, I might be interested in purchasing the O-360 and prop for my Patrol build, depending on the particulars... my email is Jim@PoogieBearRanch.com, if / when you d cider about it...
Sebastian
Sebastian
Thanks Jim but I have decided to go ahead with my build
Greetings Bill;

We met at Oshkosh this year at the Bearhawk Dinner. I read your post regarding the Keller Flap, and sw that you have quite a bit of experience in a Huskey.

Because you sold a Huskey to build a Patrol, I am curious on some specifics on how you think the Patrol will compare with a Huskey's performance, and if you are doing anything special during the build to enhance it. I know you are considering the Keller Flap in the future. But right now, during the build, what are you incorporating?


Brooks Cone
Bdflies
Bdflies
Hello Brooks!

I remember you well. I LOVED my Husky. Great aircraft! Mine was an earlier A-1 model, which meant it was pretty light. I have about a hundred hours in the A1-B and A1-C models also. They're a bit heavier and have a different wing. For my money, the lighter, early models perform better.
I think a stock Patrol should perform very much like my Husky did. If it's a little faster, great. If not, no big deal. I'm all about short grass strips. My project came with a Catto prop, that I sold. I'm using a MT constant speed prop. Other than that major change, I'm just trying to keep it light, without sacrificing creature comforts. If I can stay below 1200#, I'll be happy. That should be doable. The Husky has great brakes! I removed the single piston Grove calipers and bought a pair of their 35-6A calipers and installed a set of .625" bore master cylinders.
You're probably wondering why I sold the Husky, if I liked it so much... It's about going Experimental, rather than certified. My A-1 had steam gauges and a Garmin 396. That stuff worked fine and got me anywhere I needed to go, but upgrades, for certified, are expensive and limited. My Patrol will have a G3X touch, with a G5 for backup. I've installed roll and pitch servos, driven by the G3X and Garmin's 307 control. I'll have the AOA indicator as well. Remote comm and transponder (ADS-B in and out) will be controlled through the G3X.
The 0 smoh Lycoming o-360 will sport a Slick mag and an Electroaire ignition system.
I'm thinking of the Patrol as a completely updated, brand new Husky. Mark would probably be insulted by that statement, but it's a great compliment in my mind. I'll fly with the stock flaps and see how that goes. The slotted Keller flaps are a real possibility, but not a for-sure thing.
If you've got any questions, please don't hesitate to ask!

Bill
To not hijack the thread, I'm putting this in a PM. For the bottom at the fuselage used regular terminals instead of the forged "Bob fittings". The wires came from Univair(Citabria streamlined upper wires for the upper set and Cub round upper wires for the bottom set, nominally $220 total and delivered from stock) and worked fine for dimensions/adjustment range but, given some of the items that drive wire length are “Scaled from Plans” this isn’t a guarantee they will fit factory fuselages or others. Note the Citabria wires are right/left hand thread while the Cub wires are right hand thread on both ends.
Change of plans for me. Staying home to finish up my smoke system install. I blew it off last week for some AZ backcountry fun in the BH.
Hi Mark,
My cyberlife just came into a into a state of Chaos. my computer just died and I can't get into my Yahoo mail from another computer yet and I just got my very first smartphone so it's a little crazy right now. Thanks for the offer but I need to get some of this in order and trying to ramp up time building the Bearhawk. (Spending too much on this computer stuff.)

Mark
Sorry for the delay. I have not checked for messages lately. I had to do my own cad imaging and it did not turn out to be real accurate. I had to do some modification on each form block. I can not say I would recommend using these drawings. Ed
New Member. Scratch building from plans #P130. I started this build several years ago after my Murphy Rebel build was completed and flying. I began with building the H Stab's, Rudder, Elev's, and misc small parts, then the project was put on the back burner for several years. I'm thinking it is time to get started again.
If the front/rear spar holes are not colinear, then when mating the wings to the fuselage the wing dihedral cannot be adjusted independently of the angle of incidence without putting a "bind" on the attachment bolts.

Angle of incidence and dihedral would need to all be set at the same time prior to the final reaming of the mating holes.

Something to keep in mind when the wings get mated to the fuselage.


Perhaps the offset is small enough to not be a concern but if that's the case, then why have the offset at all?

The various "How to mate the wings?" write ups set the angle of incidence first and the dihedral second which would only be correct if the front/rear spar attach bolts are in line and thus work as a hinge.

Mysteries..........
stinger
stinger
BTAZ , I take it you are building the LSA . As per Bob Barrow the wing spar bolt attach holes should NOT line up on this wing , it will not produce the correct are foil . One must use the Mylar drawing C/L . Stinger
Jared,

I can't determine how to post pix for the life of me. Got any tips?

PS, I'm using an iPad
Av8rPaul
Av8rPaul
Not to eaves drop, but I use my Photobucket account. Copy the IMG url under "Share this photo" and paste it into your post.
jaredyates
jaredyates
Cate, I'll send you an email with a screen shot of how it should look. Let me know if you don't get it.
Have you had a chance to talk to Merv Hargraves to see how his flapless-Patrol project worked out?

Could you have him contact me bergy@poplar.us
1-715-354-2458
CharlieZulu
CharlieZulu
Sorry mate only just saw this. i spoke to merv and he says you've already tracked him down. hope the project is progressing well
My name is David Swann I live in McCalla Alabama, I have a set of LSA plans and recently ordered a tubing kit from Mark. I am going to use a corvair engine and it is mostly built. Still waiting on heads, they are still in the machine shop. I am here to get help building my LSA and hope to be able to help others as I build my plane.
Hey Chris,

I'm cadding up the Patrol in 3d before I start cutting any metal. I'm working on the main spar. How in the world did you figure out the rivet pattern for the spar splice plate? It LOOKS simple, but when I try to scale the drawings and come up with proper spacings, etc., I keep running into problems. I don't know what the critical dimensions or alignments are. Bob calls out a 1 9/16" dimension for the rib, but that's about it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Kevin
Chris In Wisconsin
Chris In Wisconsin
Hi Kevin,

First I looked up the number of rivets required for a spar web splice in AC 43.13. Once I had the numbers, I experimented with splice plate dimensions and rivet spacing until I met the minimums. Then I evened out rivet pitch along the lift strut attach strap so they were even and 4d apart, and at least 2d from the edge. For the rest of them in the middle, I basically followed the pattern in the plans the best I could interpret . It looks to be that each column of rivets are equally spaced top to bottom, so that's the pattern I chose as well. You have me thinking now. I'll have to look again and see if I recall it correctly from memory :-)

Also, keep in mind that my project is NOT a Patrol, only has a wing based upon it. My plane is significantly larger and using the Patrol wing as a reference.

Thanks for the question!
John, did you buy a set of shock struts with the round tubing from us? I don't remember. Please reply to my email address N95MF@hotmail.com. Mark
Sent you a text. My phone number is 704-661-0708. My building partner is Brent VanDervort and he is the "real" builder as he is a hot rodder in real life. His business is Fatman Fabrications and so he is a professional fabricator. We are pretty far along with the fuselage on gear and the wings on racks. However, we have plenty to go!
Chris - I do not believe Hari has a QB kit. I think he bought a scratch built project. I am not asking you to do a correction, but just thought I would mention it. Mark
Chris In Wisconsin
Chris In Wisconsin
Thanks Mark. I recall he had purchased a complete plane, but wasn't sure if its origin. Thanks for the clarification. :-). Have a great weekend.
I don't know how long these Private Messages can be, so uploaded my message to my web server.
Check it out there.

http://poplar.us/turbo.pdf
patrickh99
patrickh99
I have been following the mazda rotary option with considerable interest as well. But, for the same reasons you list, I decided to go the traditional route. Wehn Tracy Crook retired from making PSRUs, that sealed the deal.

A turbo'd P-port 3-rotor wankel is definitely a firebreathing beast that would make a Bearhawk or any other plane act like a home-sick angel.

I'm thinking that once I get the plane flying, I may tinker with one and see if I can set it up to swap out the Lycoming. Maybe Mazda will be producing the new rotary by then.
My wife and I would like to find a Patrol that needs a new home. We are long time tailwheel pilots and have decided the Patrol should be our next aircraft.
If you are thinking of selling, considering selling sometime in the near future or know of anyone that might be interested in selling their Patrol please contact us.
Thanks...
Jeff & Lynne
Brenham, Texas
ljstoltenberg@gmail.com
Hi Dan, Your Subaru engine is fuel injected, how did you do your fuel system, I am using a Fuel injected toyota Lexus engine, can you help me Gerhard Rieger
alaskabearhawk
alaskabearhawk
Hi Gerhard....this isn't Dan. You can contact Dan at dshilling@gci.net
Hey Jared

While I have your attention... :-)

My signature block seems to have disappeared from posts and I cannot for the life of me find anywhere to edit/create it? Am I just being stunned or has that feature gone away?

Also, I notice at the bottom of every page now there is a debug window....

Cheers

Mark
Really think about your mission.
I was ready to do an LSA. Flew 3 different types. The Patrol wasn't available when I started my 4 place. Then I got to thinking that I really want to fly with at least one person maybe two and have my toys with me most of the time. Either fishing and camping gear or golf clubs and 2 people. Maybe 3. I live in colorado's thin air and want plenty of power around or over mountains at high airstrips. You may want to go there even if u live at low altitude! Anyone with a Patrol please enter into this discussion. Building time is long for either one unless you do it full time.
Overall operating cost would be substantial I believe. Maybe a Patrol owner could fill you in on fuel burn, etc. I just flew with Jared Yates in his 4 place with an O360. ( see post under flight training). Mucho power. And appreciably lower fuel burn than my O540. The visibility with the patrol is outstanding and that always impresses me. Hope this helps.
Hi,
the airplane has been sold, but I will answer your question regarding the cooling. I attached a picture from my engine data when I came back from ABQ last week. The aircraft was cruising at 7500 ft with 115 Kts/TAS. All other data you can take from the diagram.
Anyway. My cowling is build more like a plenum chamber. Since I needed a 4 inch prop extension I also did build some kind of ducts closing every way off the air could slip through around the flywheel and the prop area. So the air is pushed through those ducts into the engine compartment, then forced through the cooling rips downward and then flows out at the opening where the exhaust pipes are located. Additionally I mounted my oil cooler on the left side of the engine. Most dudes have 'em on the right side. The left side seems to be the better location and we made this experience already on the F1 Rocket we did build before.
It might have something to do with the air coming from the prop, I don't know. I only know, that I never needed louvers or additional air scoops for cooling. We also calculated the outlet area for the cooling air since it should have about the same size as the air inlets! Another trick was to smooth out that outlet area to not get any vortexes in the engine compartment and to build an about one inch high lip in front of the outlet area to produce exactly that. A vortex which sucks the air out of the compartment. A good book for getting into this is "SPEED with ECONOMY" by Kent Paser.
If you have further questions, here is my private e-mail address. Send me yours and I send you a few pictures. bearhawk@gmx.net

Georg


You Boys, have been talk about a seat lock system. Here is mine . Stinger
lsa140
lsa140
Nicely done, really appreciate you sharing. Looks like a slick system. Are you pleased with how it functions?
stinger
stinger
Time will tell. Stinger
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