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  • Flap cables rubbing

    I'm about to attach the flap cables on my four place quick build and have come across a "head scratcher." With the cables connected to the flap lever and ran rearwards they rub where the rear spar attaches to the fuselage. Especially on the right side when it goes through the external fairlead. Am I missing something here?

  • #2
    I ran into the same head scratcher. I just hung my wings for the first time and drilled them. The left side seems to be okay, but as you mentioned, the right side has the cable contacting the rear spar attach points in the flaps down position. I positioned the torque tube arm in and out to provide the best clearance in the gap, then I was planning to use a slightly bigger pulley to provide the proper clearance.

    I'm very interested to hear what others have to say though.
    Bobby Stokes
    4-Place Kit Builder
    Queen Creek, AZ
    http://azbearhawk.com

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    • #3
      Sometimes using the bigger cable shackle helps. I have also used two strips of .062 steel to connect the cable to the flap torque tube arm. Both those tricks have helped on occasion. Mark

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      • #4
        Thanks for the comments.

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        • #5
          I used these fork ends to get the flap arm as close as possible to the root fitting for minimum deflection in the pulley groove. Had the cables made up at Spruce. It also allows more clearance against the arm in the retracted position.
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          • #6
            Good idea. How long are the fork ends?

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            • #7
              Not sure. Look it up on Spruces website. SA362. The inside distance is much longer than a shackle and is quite slender compared to the shackle/thimble combination.

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              • #8
                Thanks again! I'll look it up.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by swpilot3 View Post
                  I ran into the same head scratcher. I just hung my wings for the first time and drilled them. The left side seems to be okay, but as you mentioned, the right side has the cable contacting the rear spar attach points in the flaps down position. I positioned the torque tube arm in and out to provide the best clearance in the gap, then I was planning to use a slightly bigger pulley to provide the proper clearance.

                  I'm very interested to hear what others have to say though.
                  I had this same scenario. I got the inboard / outboard alignment as central as possible, but the flaps travel a long way.

                  I found the reality is the flaps never go down far enough in flight to make contact with the spar attach point. The contact isn't a big deal if there's no strain on the cables. I just put some tape into that area to buffer it. After a lot of flying, it hasn't left a mark.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Battson View Post

                    I had this same scenario. I got the inboard / outboard alignment as central as possible, but the flaps travel a long way.

                    I found the reality is the flaps never go down far enough in flight to make contact with the spar attach point. The contact isn't a big deal if there's no strain on the cables. I just put some tape into that area to buffer it. After a lot of flying, it hasn't left a mark.
                    Ah, that's very good to hear. Thanks Battson!
                    Bobby Stokes
                    4-Place Kit Builder
                    Queen Creek, AZ
                    http://azbearhawk.com

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                    • #11
                      I've run into a slight different issue with my left flap cable. Where it crosses over from tube from the outside fair lead to the inside fair lead it is rubbing on the top of the tube. Wondering if anyone has encountered this and if so what you might have done to resolve it. Thanks.
                      Larry Driver
                      Bearhawk 4-Place Quickbuild N22LD
                      Mogollon Airpark, Overgaard AZ

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                      • #12
                        Not exactly the same position, but Maule had a similar problem with rudder cables. Any possibility the solution could be used if there are no adjustments you can make?



                        Chris

                        Christopher Owens
                        Bearhawk 4-Place Scratch Built, Plans 991
                        Bearhawk Patrol Scratch Built, Plans P313
                        Germantown, Wisconsin, USA

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                        • #13
                          Thank you, Chris. That's pretty much what I came up with. I can't really modify anything. It's the geometry of the pulley in relation to the tube. The rub is very slight but still has to be addressed. I don't really have the option of using an Adel clamp on the tube (no good place to affix it). I have some very tough nylon tubing with an I.D. to accommodate the cable. The O.D. is sized so it fits snugly through the fair leads. I will make it long enough to extend enough past the front and rear fair leads to secure it in place with either a very small clamp or a couple wraps of safety wire.
                          Larry Driver
                          Bearhawk 4-Place Quickbuild N22LD
                          Mogollon Airpark, Overgaard AZ

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                          • #14
                            I just spent way more time installing and adjusting aileron and flap cables than I thought I would. I decided to hang the wings one more time before I closed them, and wanted to make sure the linkages were "plug and play" when I hang the wings for the last time. Fuel line connections also.

                            Having the flaps and ailerons not installed (flaps especially), and the fuselage not covered made this a lot easier. Specifically, if the wing roots were covered with fabric, it would be more difficult to accurately measure distances when adjusting the flap linkages. Adjusting the left and right flap cables individually, also affect the opposite one. I now have the two sides moving the exact same amount, retracted and extended. The only thing left to adjust, is the flap pushrod.

                            Ailerons same thing. The linkage needs to be adjusted so that both sides operate the same. I clamped the aileron bell cranks in the square position, and made up the cables. Unclamp them, and tension the cables. Make sure both bell cranks are square at the same cable position. And make sure the cables aren't rubbing on the ribs (I had a couple that did).

                            I think if you did all this adjusting off of aileron and flap movement, you would be introducing another variable. You might adjust the aileron (or flap) pushrod to correct a mechanism misalignment. The mechanism needs to be adjusted first.

                            So far I am very glad I did this before the fuselage is covered. Hopefully I won't be unhappy I did it this way later. :<)


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                            • #15
                              Good work svyolo. Getting the flap and aileron rigging correct can be a trial of patience. It’s easy to get it “good enough” but that last little bit is tough. And we still won’t know if we got it right till the plane actually flies. Oh the joy of building😁
                              Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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