I am getting ready to swage my control cables, made up some inserts to have it all run smoothly and so nothing will bind up. I also cut out the material for the firewall heatshield. Ready to go to the upholsterer. Waiting for the tin plated sleeves and bolts and nuts and more control cable to arrive from the states. It amazed me to see how many people in aviation do not know that the zinc plated sleeve will not work on SS control cable, only the tin plated ones, the zinc plated sleeves will cause galvanic corrosion. When I received my hardware kit from Aircraft Spruce ten odd years ago, they send me the SS cable, but with zinc plated sleeves. Its always best to do proper homework on what goes with what.
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After viewing the discussion on SS versus galvanized cable by Rollie and Battson, I decided to go with galvanized. https://bearhawkforums.com/forum/bea...control-cables
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Thanks Rob, I did follow that discussion. I plan to move to the coast and personally think the SS control cable will last longer in coastal areas. I will keep my eye on them for sure.
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Hi to all, this is a question specifically to those who has fitted their wings, do I drill the airframe holes for the main spar to fit the AN6 bolt and rear spar to fit the AN6 bolt both holes before I fit the wings, I understand the procedure to set the wing angle of incidence correctly and the wing to fit square to each other and in relation to the airframe that has been levelled with the tube and water method. If any of you can share what you did and what you would improve if you have to do it again. I made up the drill guides for AN5 and AN6 bolts.You do not have permission to view this gallery.
This gallery has 3 photos.
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I drilled mine all at the same time with the wings fitted in place. Here is a document I put together that describes my process and helped me complete the task.
Wing Drilling Steps for N6408C.docxRob Caldwell
Lake Norman Airpark (14A), North Carolina
EAA Chapter 309
Model B Quick Build Kit Serial # 11B-24B / 25B
YouTube Channel: http://bearhawklife.video
1st Flight May 18, 2021
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Originally posted by Gerhard Rieger View PostHi to all, this is a question specifically to those who has fitted their wings, do I drill the airframe holes for the main spar to fit the AN6 bolt and rear spar to fit the AN6 bolt both holes before I fit the wings, I understand the procedure to set the wing angle of incidence correctly and the wing to fit square to each other and in relation to the airframe that has been levelled with the tube and water method. If any of you can share what you did and what you would improve if you have to do it again. I made up the drill guides for AN5 and AN6 bolts.
Bob Barrows document titled "Drilling Your Wings to your Fuselage" available on Bearhawk.tips. (I'm not sure I have authority to attach to my post.)
I followed the document pretty much to a tee and would do it again that way.... so I left my wing/fuselage attach holes undersized while the wing alignment procedures were accomplished. Then I drilled the holes to final size. I used a drilling jig like you have, but moved up from the undersize holes to the final size holes incrementally by placing tube sleeves in the jig that would accommodate the undersize drill bit and keep the undersize drill centered.
The water level... I had about 5 versions of it until I settled on a a very satisfactory design. 3/8" tube is good. 1/4" tube is not good...too bouncy and more difficult to read. A bucket was attached to the wall and was my water level reservoir with a height about 10-12 inches below the bottom of the wing. I took a 24" stick and attached a metric ruler to it then attached the user end of the water level tube on top of this assembly so I could see through the water in the tube to the ruler. But then when I raised the stick up to touch the bottom of the wing I could not read the level of the water on my small ruler so I got out my magnifier reading glasses. I then I could read it so good that I got unreliable results because I could not reliably hold the tube square and in place until I attached my orange plastic post level to the ruler/tube assembly. After those changes, keeping the tube straight up-down and reading it with my magnifiers, I was able to measure anywhere the tube could reach within 0.5 mm accuracy. I could move from the left wing to the right wing and get each position set just right with very high confidence. I could move out to the wing tips, it was wonderful.
Brooks Cone
Southeast Michigan
Patrol #303, Kit build
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Originally posted by jim.mclaughlin924 View PostWent backwards this week, doing final prep for 1st flight the Dynon went black. Will ship back and pay standard $450 repair fee. Probably 4 week delay. Damn
I had an issue with mine when I pressed the display button. Dynon we’re less than forthcoming with the issue, however it is a known issue among their customers that has been around for a while. It’s related to the “Swap Screens†function. They have released a file to fix the problem (but it doesn’t fix it permanently). I was told off by off record that Dynon recommends not using the swap screen function, which is very odd since they included it as an option. In the meantime I have disabled the Swap Screen button.Last edited by Nev; 06-12-2021, 04:18 PM.Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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No, just completely black. Spent an hour with the Dynon tech. Unfortunately it is more than 3 yrs old, so no warranty. Hopefully they will return it quickly.
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Originally posted by jim.mclaughlin924 View PostNo, just completely black. Spent an hour with the Dynon tech. Unfortunately it is more than 3 yrs old, so no warranty. Hopefully they will return it quickly.Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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Well, I finally have something to report...actually receiving my Companion kit today! Took the wings to the airport and put them in my hangar and kept the fuse at home. So the journey begins...
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Last 2 days I drilled the windshield fairing to the boot cowl and installed nut plates, fabbed the backing angles, drilled and installed nut plates. Installed nut plates on the windscreen pillar. I made up covers for the windscreen pillar/fuel lines/wiring. I think I set a new personal record for most attempts at making parts. I think it took me 9 or 10 attempts to make the 2 outside covers.
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Completed the installation of the pitch autopilot servo today on my Patrol. One more axis to go.
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Latest progress on my scratch build model A four place 18C2AA7A-C050-47DA-BB65-8337A5E49436.jpeg1EED7693-B240-410F-BDF3-5784160FD286.jpeg430D56DC-5146-4119-B31A-04F99790C8D9.jpegB49EC2FB-4B3C-4428-9088-1D89308325C0.jpeg34A333D0-5C85-41C5-B179-AC766F17403A.jpeg75BAEEF9-AC72-40C3-80D7-D9FBBC3B15A7.jpeg82CA2184-7C53-4393-A335-0CB0AA1E3D5C.jpeg2101B71C-090E-407F-B78B-58C492D4B64F.jpeg
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