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Rivets in fibreglass

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  • Rivets in fibreglass

    Where the bottom (and top) cowls are attached to the nose bowl I was thinking of using rivets for a permanent attachment. Should I be using a long thin aluminium strip behind the fibreglass to rivet into ? Or some sort of washer to spread the load ? What’s a good method ?

    I see tinnerman washers are mentioned, are they for screws and should I be using screws instead of rivets where possible?

    Any thoughts appreciated thanks.

    Nev Bailey
    Christchurch, NZ

    BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
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  • #2
    FWIW, this is what Rob Taylor did. DSCF8645.jpgDSCF8652.jpgDSCF8647.jpgDSCF8653.jpgDSCF8651.jpg

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    • #3
      FWIW, this is what Rob Taylor did.
      Thats great thanks. Do you happen to know what he has used on the other side of the fibreglass to prevent the rivets pulling into the fibreglass while setting them ?
      Nev Bailey
      Christchurch, NZ

      BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
      YouTube - Build and flying channel
      Builders Log - We build planes

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      • davzLSA
        davzLSA commented
        Editing a comment
        Hey Nev, Im going to use a counter sunk washer, I've seen that used many fiber glass cowling cowling.https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...esswashers.php You just need to chose your size. Also I plan to glue an aluminum strip to the back side of the fiber glass so the rivets have something to make a shop head against instead of fiberglass.
        Last edited by davzLSA; 03-27-2021, 10:26 PM.

    • #4
      Cessna uses rivets with washers under the shop head. Seems to work fine.
      Gerry
      Patrol #30
      Last edited by geraldmorrissey; 03-27-2021, 04:25 PM.

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      • #5
        In the certified world they use soft rivets for riveting into fiberglass. The hard, structural rivets are AN470AD or AN 426AD. Soft rivets are AN470A or AN426A. However, I have used hard rivets also. You just have to be careful to not squeeze them too hard. Light squeeze. Too hard and you shatter the fiberglass. The aluminum strip under the shop tail is a good idea. Mark

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        • Nev
          Nev commented
          Editing a comment
          Good to know thanks Mark.

      • #6
        As Mark mentioned, I used soft flush rivets with anchor plates...I used a squeezer with perfect results..Gary

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        • #7
          I have used regular solid rivets without issue, two cowls now. No need for swash plates or a backing strip. As Mark says, just don't go to town with the bucking bar, just the minimum required squeeze.
          They were relatively crash-proof too. The fibreglass broke before the rivets popped out.

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          • #8
            You can also use a very fine cloth to cover the countersunk head in the fibreglass and then fill and rub smooth. Bit of work but you end up with a very clean finish with the heads secured.

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