Engine Preheat Systems

[Utah-Jay]

I installed the Anti-Splat heater in my sump, a friend has one and has given glaring reports of how well it works

[rodsmith]

I was lucky to have the right hand sump drain plug easily come out during my oil change. I installed the Antisplataero sump heater. The first night I used it the temp dropped to 10 deg. I had my twin hornet heater sitting on top of the cylinders and the engine blanket installed. After 12 hours the oil temp was 103 and the cylinder temps were 95. The combination of the two heaters seems to do everything that a Reiff or Tannis system does for a much lower cost. Saves several minutes of engine warm up time compared to using just the twin hornet heater by itself.

[rodsmith]

I need to determine the temperature of the airflow out of it. Maybe it is not operating as it should.

[rodsmith]

Very good point John, if it doesn't come out with a reasonable amount of torque, I will do something else.

[alaskabearhawk]

Just an FYI, My E-Z Heat works great. I used the SwitcheOn app and turned on the heater from home. After five hours at an ambient temp of 13F, the top of my block was at 79F. I also installed a Kill-A-Watt meter to gauge the power usage. At our local rates, that turned out to be about 0.30 cents worth of electricity.

[whee]

Sorry the Twin Hornet isn’t working the way you had hoped Rod. I’m quite surprised it’s only heating to 30F above ambient with an engine cover on. I’d sure think it would easily heat to its 70 something set temp. I have a cheap desk heater I occasionally use and even it will get the engine to the 80s with ease.

most of the time I still just use two 75W incandescent lights and an engine cover. That usually get me into the high 40s or low 50s. I still plan to buy a Twin Hornet though.

I tried Mac’s engine covers for my new engine blanket. So far it’s awesome.

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[svyolo]

I had the same issue with one of my oil pan plugs. I wanted to use the right side one, but it had other ideas. It is already a large size thread in a hunk of aluminum, I didn't want to have to do a thread repair on that size thread. Fasteners in AL threads tend to be pretty corroded over long periods of time. I know the techniques to get the fastener out, but even if I do the threads may not be re-usable.

[rodsmith]

I started this thread asking opinions on Reiff vs Tanis pre-heat systems. Jon mentioned the twin hornet heater and along with an insulated engine cover seemed like a good option. What I have found is that the twin hornet, resting below the engine overnight only heats the oil and cylinders to about 30F above ambient temperature. I think that would be good enough during normal circumstances, but while breaking in the cylinders I am frustrated by the length of time it takes to warm up the engine starting at 50F. I can't use a heat pad on the oil pan because the bottom is covered with the cold air induction unit. I'm hearing great things about the aintisplat heater and think I will order one, and hope I don't run into the same issue that Paul did. By the way, the Bruce's engine cover is very nicely made and a perfect fit.

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[Nev]

I plugged mine in at the hangar to test it, and it's working fine. Activating it from home an hours drive away.

[Battson]

It's custom-made

[alaskabearhawk]

That is interesting on a few levels. The 3M VRB adhesive in variant forms is readily available online, so sourcing shouldn’t have been a problem. I bought an E-Z Heat 540 kit from an online retailer and I had questions about the installation. I called E-Z Heat and after a few questions it was clear that my product, even though it was “new” in the package, was very old…over 15 years and maybe more. They said just send it to them and they would replace it with the latest version, no charge. I sent it to them, along with a voluntary check for $15 to cover shipping, and I received a new version the following week. Kudos to E-Z Heat from my perspective.

I did look at the AntiSplat heater, but it wasn’t an option for me. When I got the engine parts back from Divco, it was clear the right drain plug hadn’t been removed, so I used the left side for my SafAir drain plug. At one point I did try to remove the right plug, But, with a significant amount of force, it didn’t budge. It was probably there since initial installation in 1967, so I let that dragon rest in peace and didn’t want to poke it again! I probably would have gone the AntiSplat route if the drain plug was cooperative.

[whee]

Jono, Where did you buy your engine cover from? I need to get one and was going to buy a Mac’s insulated cover but your looks better.

[Battson]

I really enjoyed this product, while I had it. It works well and gets an IO-540 engine up to about 60*C in about an hour, sometimes longer if it's cold out.

The problem I experienced, was I needed to disassemble the engine and remove the heater pad in the process. The pad still worked great afterwards - I still have it today, but the company would not supply a new 3M adhesive pad to reattach it (probably worth about $0.50!!). They said I had to purchase a whole new heater pad from them, despite being an experimental aircraft. I will not be buying another one from that company.

I like the Anti-Splat heater design better, easily removable.

[RobinDeMarco]

Great video, Paul. I'm looking forward to hearing how it works for you this winter.

[alaskabearhawk]

After consulting with some folks up here in Alaska and elsewhere, I decided on using E-Z Heat heating pads for my engine. I'm also using a custom Hornet 45 to heat the cockpit (40F/4.4C temp setting) and a SwitcheOn 2-channel cellular switch to control them both. I have covers for the cowl, prop and spinner. And yes, it is winter here in Alaska!

I uploaded a video of my engine heating pad installation on YouTube: https://youtu.be/EKQawex_IDU

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