I did a quick search and didn't see anything but What is best for building the QB wings? Rotisserie or just building on saw horses/ table?
Thanks
Travis
Travis M
Kentucky
Bearhawk 5 Quickbuilt Kit Plane #5041
Received December 2022
I really like the rotisserie. It makes it very convenient to access various parts of the wings when riveting/ installing 20250501_111818_resized.jpg wires etc. Good news is that the QB kit comes with its own materials to build the rotisserie.
I made a rotisserie out of one wing crate, and used the other crate to make a wing-sized table. The table was useful for riveting the wings closed.. The wings seemed to sag a bit when on the rotisserie so I didn’t want to rivet them that way. The table was also useful for aligning and attaching flaps and ailerons. Plumbing, wiring, fuel tanks all got done on the rotisserie.
I built mine on the rotisserie. I found that the skins were going askew while riveting the bottom skin back on. I could can tell because the rivet holes stopped lining up exactly. I had to re-do some of them. I’m a little nervous about how true they are. Hopefully the matched-hole process was self-correcting. I later learned from an expert that riveting panels should not generally be done progressively, row by row, but by pegging in the corners, halfway points, 1/4 way points etc. (FWIW-just one 2nd hand opinion).
It was nice for fixing the stuff inside the wing though.
I also built and rigged the flaps and ailerons while the wing was on the rotisserie. I strongly recommend against this. The trailing edges ended up cupping downward somewhat instead of being totally flat across the bottom. They look good after covering, but if could do it again, I’d do the controls flat on the bench.
I am building with sawhorses. I've had to flip the wings over a couple of times while working on the wingtip and root fairing nut plates. So far, I haven't had any issues, but I think I am going to make a rotisserie for painting.
I’ve closed in 4 sets of wings using these boxes. I don’t need a second set of hands to complete the riveting. I put in a piece of carpet in each bay on the front spar in case something is dropped inside. You will spend some time on your knees but elevating each wing to do the majority of the forward or bottom rivets works well.
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I completely cleco the bottom skins to keep everything in alignment before riveting and am able to reach all the holes without having to undo any part.
I’ve closed in 4 sets of wings using these boxes. I don’t need a second set of hands to complete the riveting. I put in a piece of carpet in each bay on the front spar in case something is dropped inside. You will spend some time on your knees but elevating each wing to do the majority of the forward or bottom rivets works well.
This thread seems to be detailing industry best practices of closing up Bearhawk wings. Details like possible flexing in a rotisserie, then this idea of doing closing it up vertically using the cradles thus allowing it to be closed without help is a topic I've not seen before, and created risk and barriers to completion for me. I had to look at the photo to see how Steve did it alone.....I mean reach all the rivets....now I see. I had a son help me when I closed mine up.
BTW, for those who think the bottom skin closeup is a time consuming task, one wing close up can be done in a day. No problem. Removing barriers like having "help of an expert riveter" is the important part. Has this ever been documented in Beartracks?
I was able to rivet the skins myself, and I am average height. I "rolled" the skin to the same radius that ACS had shipped .032 AL to me in a box. Worked well.
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