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  • I look forward to seeing them John

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    • Hey Guys, got some progress to report. I feel it is a major mile stone for me. The fuse has been sand blasted and has its first coat of primer. I was in a panic yesterday because I did not have enough stewart primer to paint the whole fuse and associated parts. Soooo what to do? Should I let it sit and rust while waiting on stewart to get me more paint or just go get some primer and paint the damn thing? I opted for the latter. So now I dont have to watch it rust after spending $500.00 to get it sand blasted. OK before anyone's head explodes because I paid $500.00 dollars to get it sand blasted please let me explain. By the time I assembled a blaster that would work consistently and spent the days and days it would have taken me to do the deed it would have cost me much more than $500.00. Now it is times like this that makes me think the good old quick build kit might have been the way to go. And it is in deed an argument for the fast build kit. But if you want to build the airplane the slow painful way this is the way to go. You must accept and enjoy the pain. At the end of it all it will feel so good. And besides that as the song goes "the more you suffer the more it shows you really care right!" Hope you enjoy the pics.

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      • svyolo
        svyolo commented
        Editing a comment
        Painting (and sandblasting steel) everything as you build is a giant problem unless you have a huge amount of space, a dedicated booth to paint, and no neighbors to complain. After painting the front part of my QB fuselage (tubing) and a bunch of small parts inside my shop in a makeshift paint booth, I sure am happy I don't have to do that very often.
        Last edited by svyolo; 04-03-2020, 08:58 PM.

    • Hey svyolo, I did all my painting outside. My shop is not big enough to set up a paint booth, I might do something like that when I get ready to paint the exterior. I have neighbors but they are not that close to me. And they dont complain about anything. We all pretty much keep to ourselves but we all get along. Ill still have some spot painting to do because I will still need to do a little welding yet.

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      • Hey Guys, I have more progress to report, I got all the floor boards fitted. I haven't got them drilled to the tabs yet because I am riveting stiffeners to the .025 floor boards. I wanted to ask the guys that are flying their LSA if they installed stiffeners on their .025 floor boards. I don't recall seeing anything in the plans about it or reading about anyone else doing it. It seems to me that those areas of the .025 floor boards with no support under them are pretty floppy. The stiffeners seemed to stiffen them right up. I used the back rivet method to attach the stiffeners. (good practice for the wing skins to come) I zinc chromated the areas on the angle and the bottom of the floor board where the two meet. Let me know what you think and here are the pics

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        • Hey Guys got more progress to report. I got all the floor boards fastened to the tabs now. I ended up using sheet metal screws but I think I am going to end up putting in nut plates. Im getting my rudder cables in as well. I was hoping to get an operational rudder today but I ran out of swage ovals so I had to order more of them, all I needed was 2 to finish it too. Well there is still plenty of work to do so Ill just do something else. Ill have more pics soon. Stay safe and get to building!!!

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          • rodsmith
            rodsmith commented
            Editing a comment
            Another option is tinnerman nuts, used with "B" type sheet metal screws. I used #8s for my floorboards but I guess #6s would be adequate.

          • JimParker256
            JimParker256 commented
            Editing a comment
            Yeah - do what RodSmith suggested... It never occurred to me to use Tinnermans, so I did the nutplates. Those nutplates took many, many hours to drill the holes, countersink them for flush rivets, and then rivet them in place. Then I had to figure out how to back-drill the holes in the floor panels. Had to use a very small drill, then re-drill them to the full size.

            It was only after I was finished that I mentioned it to Mark G in passing, and he told me he had just used Tinnerman nuts... Doh! That would have taken about 10% of the time it took to do the nutplates, and I'm certain Mark's are every bit as secure as mine are...

        • Hey Rod, thanks for the suggestion. I have tried the tinnerman nuts but they dont seem to work very well either, Im using #8 too but I might try the larger #6 screws to see if that works better with the tinnerman nuts.

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          • Hey Guys, I have a little more progress to report today. I got the fuel valve and gascolator installed, I had to weld 2 straps to the bottom of the front cross tubes to attach the valve and gascolator. I wonder if machine screws can be used with tinnerman nuts on floor boards? If anyone has tried that please let me know how it worked out. Thanks for the suggestion Jim, I know how much work those plate nuts are they are a PITA to install.

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            • You are looking for a Floating Clip Nut. I think of it as a NAS 395 U type Tinnerman for machine screws. Sizew 6, 8, 1032, they are all available.


              Screen Shot 2020-04-25 at 7.55.44 AM.png
              Brooks Cone
              Southeast Michigan
              Patrol #303, Kit build

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              • Thanks Brooks I think I need to get me some of these. I did not know such a critter existed. And the forum pays off yet again!!! Thanks

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                • Hey Guys, I have more progress, I have the rudder cables made and installed for now. The one thing I found while doing that, making the cables that is, was all the cable need to be exactly the same length. If not the rudder pedal don't really feel right. So I had to make some of the cables more than once. I'm going to use a trim wheel so that will be the next time I will have to make more cables, this time it will be 1/16 cable not the 1/8 cable. Hope you all like the pics. There are some floor board pic here as well.

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                  • Hey Guys more progress thanks to the inspiration and beautiful job Spinningwrench did on his throttle quadrants I decided to do the same, I didnt completely steal his design, I put my own twist on it. I was pleased with the outcome and plan to build another for the back seat. I hope you all like the pics.
                    Last edited by davzLSA; 05-09-2020, 10:09 PM.

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                    • DavzLSA, Throttle looks great. Looking at the hole at bottom of lever, taking into consideration the direction of throw and travel your carburetor requires! They are not all the same. Stinger

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                      • davzLSA
                        davzLSA commented
                        Editing a comment
                        HI Stinger I actually have 2 holes in each lever, you just cant see the top hole, I did that in anticipation of determining which way levers will have to be moved. If I need to use the top hole for the correct direction of movement Ill trim the bottom half of that lever.

                    • Im also using a ma3 carb.

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                      • Hey Fellas, got some progress to report, the dang elfs got in my shop again and made another throttle quadrant, it was just like the first one. Hope you like the pics. And may the shop elfs visit your shop too!!!

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                        • Hey guys Im probably not going to me making too many more posts on my build for the next few months. I am building a 24x40 foot extension onto my shop. I need the space so I can build my wings. I having the slab and the outer shell of the building built by a contractor but I will finish out the inside of the building. As part of the building process I had to disconnect the power to the old part of the shop so Im dead in the water until I get the power back on and thats not going to happen until I get the new part built. So Ill be looking forward to seeing all your progress and I really like reading about new flights.

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