Using MS16624 Snap Rings on cable fairleads

[N3UW]

I have always found that the metal split ring that comes with the fairleads for the flap, rudder, trim and aileron cables are a pain to install and even more remove. Jared had a good suggestion to modify a pair of snap ring pliers to make the installation of the split rings easier. They are still a pain to take off when you need to. For my build I am swaged on MS21260 swaged ends that I swage before I install the cables in the aircraft. Those ends do not fit through the fairleads so I have to removed them to thread the cables. It would not be fun to remove a fairlead through an access hole in the tail. I had seen someone mentioning using snap rings a few years ago but I did not see the sizes mentioned. Here is what I used. It makes installation and removal a snap.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/96363A578

[BTAZ]

I used snap rings on mine but I didn't make note of the size at the time. I had an assortment and just used the one that fit.

Way easier than dealing with the circlip that comes with the fairlead!

[svyolo]

That is an outstanding idea.

[Nev]

Another idea is to use lock wire.

[Battson]

More often than not the cables wear out and the fairleads are fine!
The irony of this never fails to amaze me.

Ten years this December and I have only had to remove two fairleads, and that was because I made a poor choice with the turnbuckles. The OEM fairlead rings are a fiddle for 30 seconds but in the scheme of things, I wouldn't go to any extra effort to avoid them.

[spinningwrench]

Just use safety wire

[Bcone1381]

More often than not the cables wear out and the fairleads are fine!
The irony of this never fails to amaze me.

Ten years this December and I have only had to remove two fairleads, and that was because I made a poor choice with the turnbuckles. The OEM fairlead rings are a fiddle for 30 seconds but in the scheme of things, I wouldn't go to any extra effort to avoid them.

My eye splices won't through my fairleads.

A Rudder cable wears out. I must remove all the fairleads to remove the cable. There must be other cable and fairlead options folks are using I dont know about.

I hate it when the ring flies 15' across my shop. A ":30 fiddle" becomes a multi-minute interruption. The snap rings or the safety wire prevent this. Safetywire is less effort, less time, zero cost, zero shipping for me.
Screen Shot 2022-03-08 at 10.11.27 AM.pngScreen Shot 2022-03-08 at 10.13.25 AM.png

[jaredyates]

To replace a cable, use an angle grinder to cut the old end off, then attach the new cable, pull it through, and then install a new end once the cable is in place. If you want pre-swaged cables, then you'll have to do it the hard way.

[Battson]

My eye splices won't through my fairleads.

A Rudder cable wears out. I must remove all the fairleads to remove the cable. There must be other cable and fairlead options folks are using I dont know about.

I hate it when the ring flies 15' across my shop. A ":30 fiddle" becomes a multi-minute interruption. The snap rings or the safety wire prevent this. Safetywire is less effort, less time, zero cost, zero shipping for me.
Screen Shot 2022-03-08 at 10.11.27 AM.pngScreen Shot 2022-03-08 at 10.13.25 AM.png

Bcone1381 this is what I normally do, as Jared explains above.

To replace a cable, use an angle grinder to cut the old end off, then attach the new cable, pull it through, and then install a new end once the cable is in place. If you want pre-swaged cables, then you'll have to do it the hard way.

If you place the cut hard up against the side of the swages, then measuring the new cable length is as easy as pie.

Otherwise you have to remove flaps / even the main wing fuel tanks to change aileron cables. There are fairleads you just cannot reach.

[spinningwrench]

I thought hard about making my aileron cables removable in the wing without pulling flaps, tanks or ailerons. Where I used fairleads I put them in a removable holder which I can access with a socket wrench from an inspection hole. Good in theory, we'll see how it works.

fairlead-1s.jpgfairlead-2s.jpg

[Battson]

I thought hard about making my aileron cables removable in the wing without pulling flaps, tanks or ailerons. Where I used fairleads I put them in a removable holder which I can access with a socket wrench from an inspection hole. Good in theory, we'll see how it works.

fairlead-1s.jpgfairlead-2s.jpg

This is a really good idea.

There is another fairlead in the wing root of the 4-place, attached to the supporting structure for the flap torque tube from memory. That one is a right pig to access, even with a snap-ring it would be hard to remove.

Mark Goldberg perhaps this would be worth considering, as a potential design improvement to the kits, in future? Just thinking out loud here.

[Mark Moyle]

I used a new set of these to install the standard retainer clips. I say new…because the old ones from years of profession use were worn smooth and didn’t work…https://shop.snapon.com/product/Snap...g-Pliers/SRP2B

[Pbruce]

Have I just been lucky? I’ve installed all the fairleads, and removed a few (some backwards, some re-positioning. I’ve had little trouble installing and removing by hand. The trick for me is doing half of the nylon barrel, then the other half. That said, if I have any future grief, I’m going to use safety wire. What a great tip! What a great forum! Thanks everyone.

[Battson]

That's the way I used to do it too. I haven't had to touch one in years now.

[svyolo]

I used a swaged threaded stud on one side of every cable. I clearanced most of the fairleads 1 size larger and can pull the threaded stud thru them. Barely. I can remove most cables except for the rudders without pulling the fairleads.

I love the snap ring idea. Removing the split rings is easy, Install them sucks.

[noema]

Just a side note, some of the most useful tools I have bought are, plastic pliers (knipex), plastic chiseles, plastic screwdrivers. They allow all kind of creative uses for all these special cases without scratching up stuff.