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Cable rubbing in Strut

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  • Cable rubbing in Strut

    Has anyone else had the problem of the aileron cables rubbing at the top of the strut? I am using the larger pulleys and still have the issue. To correct it I need to move the pulleys mount point about 1/2" inboard. I am going to modify the pulley brackets to accomplish that.

  • #2
    Yes, that condition surfaces now and then.
    Have made teflon V shaped wedges for the interior aft end of the strut. Held in place with lockwire stitches or 4-40 screws.

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    • #3
      Would the smaller diameter pulleys hurt you instead of helping? I also have used a hard nylon rub block on the inside of the wing strut when needed. Mark

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      • #4
        I had the issue on one side of my LSA. I remade the pulley bracket to lower the pulley a bit which centered the cable in the strut.

        I thought about going to a smaller pulley but likely would have had to remake the control cable.

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        • #5
          I think you can use a smaller pulley. It was in one of the older Beartracks I believe.

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          • #6
            Rodsmith, you lost me on your statement of moving the pulley inboard, that would compound the problem if the cable is touching the top of the strut. I am a plans builder and I had this problem. I moved the pulley outboard thus keeping the alignment correct to the outboard pulley. I had to punch out a rivet and made a 4130 bridge to mount the pulley at a new location. I was able to correct my error as the clues were not correct . Stinger

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            • #7
              It was rubbing on the bottom side of the strut. I spent a few hours modifying the brackets to move the pulley's a 1/2 " inboard. That put the cables right in the center of the strut.The aileron cross over cable was rubbing on the flap support frame tubing on both sides. I added a fairlead on the rib outboard of the flap frame on each side to fix that, still very close.
              Last edited by rodsmith; 08-13-2017, 10:00 AM.

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              • #8
                I haven't seen that issue so far.

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                • #9
                  FYI;
                  The B model uses 3" pulleys in the wing at the top of the lift strut. The cable rubs the top of the strut fairly significantly I am going to try a smaller pulley before I notch the lift strut..

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                  • svyolo
                    svyolo commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I was going to order 2" ones but forgot how expensive they are. Looking around the airframe I found some 1.75" one with a AN5 bolt on the bottom of the fuselage. Tried them and they fit perfect. 2 " might still rub just slightly.

                    That is the good news. The bad news is my aileron cables just magically got longer.

                • #10
                  I'm having the same issue. Is there any problem with cutting a small fillet at the rear of the top of the strut for clearance? I can't imagine that is a highly stressed area. In any case, a properly curved and finished fillet may actually reduce the stress as opposed to a square corner ......

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                  • PaulSA
                    PaulSA commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Not keen on the rub block - more friction, more maintenance. I was suggesting trimming off the top rear corner of the strut to give clearance

                  • svyolo
                    svyolo commented
                    Editing a comment
                    The notch might have to be a lot longer than you realize. The angle you are dealing with isn't from the wing exit pulley to the strut, it is from that pulley to the lower pulley.

                  • PaulSA
                    PaulSA commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I see your point. Anyone with the wear block like to comment on how it affects the aileron feel and how often it needs to be replaced.

                    I must say the whole thing looks like a bit of a design flaw ......
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