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  • Control Stick Length


    It seems that I read in a post the folks have had to cut the control stick a small amount to make it clear the dash. I'm trying to make that determination. I have clamped the dash panel in place and the panel sticks about an inch below the bottom tube that supports the panel. Consequently the stick contacts the panel as you move it to the forward position. ( I would really like to keep this panel length.)

    Did anyone else see this problem or cut the stick?

    Let me clarify that I do not have the elevator installed with the cables hooked to the controls so I really don't know what the travel of the stick will be in the forward position. Haven't put the tail feathers on since it's easier to move the plane around the shop with out them.

    Do I need the tail feathers installed to make this determination?

  • #2
    Why have the panel extend about an inch below the support tube? That isn't enough length to put anything there.

    On the few BHs I've looked at, and on mine, the stick does travel under the panel when at full forward. I have to cut approximately 1/2" off my sticks to the handles and PTT switches will fit under the panel.
    Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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    • #3
      "Why have the panel extend about an inch below the support tube? That isn't enough length to put anything there"

      What I was going to do with the extended area was cut out a section in the middle and overlay a section of panel that would contain throttle, mixture, prop,& carb heat. Basically all my control cables so if I needed to pull the panel I could just unscrew the overlay and drop all the control cables at once. Then by adding a couple of tubing clamps around the bottom support tube and screwed to the panel I could just rotate the panel to get clearance to work.

      Just my idea.

      Comment


      • #4
        My advise would be to push your panel up so that the bottom of your panel is tight to the lower tube. Build a sub panel for engine controls: throttle, mixture, prop etc above the tube. Center stack radios in there own structure. Build a removable right and left side panel. Allow plenty of wire so panels can be easily removed for service. Plan your wiring harness so that future service and modifications can be easily installed. Make future service and modification your number one priority. I did cut my stick but the time and effort was not worth what I gained. On the other hand technology is changing so fast that you will probably want to upgrade your panel or make some new change regularly after completion.

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        • Sebastian
          Sebastian commented
          Editing a comment
          I will give that some thought and see what I can come up with.

      • #5
        Sebastian, That would provide a nice look an possible good access. If it works for you then great.

        I'm going basically what tailwind said, three piece panel but I'm keeping my engine controls in the panel. A sub panel for the engine controls won't work for me; it interferes with my leg position.
        Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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        • #6
          I guess I need to be more clear. I would put everything above the tube. Split the panel into four sections: left side removable, top center removable and easily modified for radios, center bottom fixed for engine controls, right side removable

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          • #7
            Originally posted by tailwind
            I guess I need to be more clear. I would put everything above the tube. Split the panel into four sections: left side removable, top center removable and easily modified for radios, center bottom fixed for engine controls, right side removable
            Yep, that's what I'm doing. Sorry I didn't read your previous post thoroughly.
            Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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            • #8
              Super advice from Tailwind, derived from lots of experience.

              Comment


              • #9
                I cut my sticks to fit under the panel, it hasn't caused any issues.

                I left enough room for my thumb to sit atop the stick on the trim buttons (I have electric trim) and still pass under the panel. I do use the trim at full forward stick on some occasions.

                A short stick can be nice, so your forearm rests upon your leg while you're flying.

                Comment


                • #10
                  Don't worry about cutting off the stick. I probably cut around 3 inches off of mine. The stick falls perfectly in hand during cruise flight and the loads during landing are not objectionable. The panel fits me perfectly. So what is the problem. Cut off the old engine control bracket fabricate and weld on a new one. The motivation was to create room for radios. As it turns out there is plenty of room in the panel for radios without moving the engine controls below the tube. Guests also complain that they bump there knees on the sub panel below the tube. I like what I have but I would not invest the time and effort to do it again and I could even change it back. That is the beauty of an experimental. I can do what I want when I want without a lot of FAA paperwork and an IA to sign it off. Build some temporary mockups of your panel. Full size paper cut outs of the things you intend to install. Try to temporarily mount your engine controls in the proposed area. See how the controls and your stick will integrate together. Then make a final decision.
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                  • JimParker256
                    JimParker256 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Gotta ask... What do the "L Seat" and "R Seat" switches do? Ejection seats? Heated seats? Power-adjustable seats? Inquiring minds want to know!

                  • Daniel
                    Daniel commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I was planning on having the same throttle quadrant setup. Then my kit came in with the new style flap handle. The new flap handle position will not allow any knobs below the dash tube. Gotta change my plan.

                • #11
                  I started with original length sticks when I was using the blue sparkly bicycle grips. I switched to fancy wooden grips upon installing the autopilot servos, so that I could have a second switch, and had to cut about 2 inches off because the wooden grip had so much material above the end of the steel tube.

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                  • #12
                    Y'all are making me feel a lot better about chopping the sticks off some. THANKS!!

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                    • #13
                      I missed L seat R seat. I have heated seats. They are appreciated when the temperature drops. I have tried to seal up air leaks but have more to go. Heated seats are very welcome.

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                      • #14
                        LOL -- I have "heated seats" on my Citabria every day here in Texas - without any switches or electrical draw! (It was 93 F today, and going to be 93 F again tomorrow... I can't wait for those three days during the winter when I can say "See, the weather is great here in Texas!")
                        Jim Parker
                        Farmersville, TX (NE of Dallas)
                        RANS S-6ES (E-LSA) with Rotax 912ULS (100 HP)

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                        • #15
                          Does the stick need to go under the panel? I have everything rigged and there is enough room to adjust the stick far enough back that it doesn’t go under the panel and I still have plenty of room between the stick and seat.
                          Or am I missing something?

                          Comment


                          • Mark Goldberg
                            Mark Goldberg commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Yes. The stick goes under the instrument panel to get full forward travel. Mark
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