Rear stabiliser fairing

[Nev]

I have the 4 place - Bravo model. This has welded aero shaped steel ribs on the rear stabiliser. I’m trying to work out how to attach a fairing between the stabiliser inside rib and the fuselage so I can make preparations for it. I notice a number of people previously using nutplates on the wooden rib shapers.

How is this normally done on the B model ? (Drill the rib ??) Anyone have some photos of how they’ve done it ? Thanks.

[Mark Goldberg]

Hello Nev. These are the easiest fairings to make on the plane. Just a more or less flat piece of .025 between the end rib of the hor stab and the fuselage. Covering the gap. With a rubber trim type strip where the fairing contacts the fuselage sides. One on the top and another on the bottom. These parts can be attached two ways. Either with nut plates on the hor stab rib, or with sheet metal screws (which is what I have always done). I start with #4 screws, and if a hole gets elongated over the years - then move up to a #6. Mark

[stinger]

Different Strokes, Don't know if it will work for you but this is how I did it on my LSA. One peace aluminum wraped around the leading edge and secured at back with hose clamp cut in half. 1980-01-01 LSA Fairings Mar 1018 029.JPG1980-01-01 LSA Fairings Mar 1018 025.JPG1980-01-01 LSA Fairings Mar 1018 023.JPG Stinger

[Nev]

That’s a very clean solution you have there.
I’ve decided to use nut-plates and bond them into place. I wasn’t sure about using aluminium rivets into steel. That said I may end up doing what you’ve done and I guess once it’s fitted the trim could permanently adhered into place on the stabiliser, just leaving access to the one bolt.

[Battson]

I wasn’t sure about using aluminium rivets into steel.

I have about 5,000 of these on my plane. Every nutplate is made of steel. It does not create any issues riveting through the fuselage steel tabs or other non-structural parts like the doors.

[svyolo]

You can also use SS pop rivets. CCC-32 are flush head SS pop rivets.

[Nev]

I’ve used a few of those in other areas. Brilliant little things ! They give a really good finish.

[Nev]

I have about 5,000 of these on my plane. Every nutplate is made of steel. It does not create any issues riveting through the fuselage steel tabs or other non-structural parts like the doors.

Yes I should have realised! Anyway, I’ve bonded the nutplates in place. The failure mode should be relatively benign and I can use Stingers method if it needs fixing. However it seemed to go well. Incidentally I’ve also bonded the forward cargo door and it appears to be very strong. The skin will deform before it peels (I tried). I think the main test will be longevity of the adhesive.

[svyolo]

One little detail question. Does the rubber seal touch the fabric, or just very close. I would think abrasion would be a problem, but a good seal would be less drag.

[Battson]

It can touch the fabric, it doesn't cause any issues.

[Battson]

Incidentally I’ve also bonded the forward cargo door and it appears to be very strong. The skin will deform before it peels (I tried). I think the main test will be longevity of the adhesive.

Are you saying you bonded the alum skin to the door frame, such that nothing but glue is holding it in place?

[Nev]

.Are you saying you bonded the alum skin to the door frame, such that nothing but glue is holding it in place?

Yes that’s correct.
We could start another thread on this for my pending Tar and Feathering

[AKKen07]

Actually, that sounds pretty neat Nev! I’d love to see a pictorial review of your bonding results

[Nev]

Yes square tubing would have been ideal Jim. My front doors will be square tubing for that. I’ve put two initial pics in a new thread and will add some more with closer detail tomorrow.

[svyolo]

I am bonding several plexi parts, but I am also putting a single wide base pop rivet in the corners as a bit of a safety. At least at the leading edge of the panel. I saw several bush style planes do similar.

My skylight on my 4 place will have the two center formers bonded only to the skylight. Both are removable while attached to the the glass, and the leading edge is constrained with the skylight connector to the windshield. The sides of the skylight will be bolted to the fuselage formers. That should eliminate about 40% of the fasteners in the skylight, but it can still be removed.

[svyolo]

How often does the fairing on the tail have to come off? I don't have any access panels next to the stab (one on each side of the elevator tube). Any reason not to just pop rivet the fairing to the rib itself?

[jaredyates]

How often does the fairing on the tail have to come off? I don't have any access panels next to the stab (one on each side of the elevator tube). Any reason not to just pop rivet the fairing to the rib itself?

That is what I did. Haven't needed to take it off yet.

[svyolo]

Sounds like a plan, thanks.