Finished forming the last center rib tonight, full length tip ribs are all that left of the wing ribs. About 140 hours into my Companion scratch build. Loving every minute of it.
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I have admirer. Went to reach for the drill and saw this little guy, turned out to be a black widow, and I am a total giant man-baby when it comes to spiders. Almost had to call my wife to come kill it.
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Last week I replaced the aft cargo bulkhead with one made from Kydex, and included an inspection port. It's yet to be tested inflight, but seems good, both functional and aesthetically clean. Weight was the same as the old one made from Corflute (corrugated plastic).
I also replaced the instrument panel coaming with a much larger rubber extrusion.
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Last edited by Nev; 10-05-2022, 02:53 PM.Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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Much like Robin, becky and I bought a Vans toolbox kit. Our BH kit (and tools!) are taking an obscene length of time getting to NZ, so this week we borrowed some tools from a friend to assemble the toolbox kit. Great way to keep ourselves occupied and get some experience driving rivetsModel B 4-Place
Quick Build Kit #39
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Originally posted by Rootster View PostFinished forming the last center rib tonight, full length tip ribs are all that left of the wing ribs. About 140 hours into my Companion scratch build. Loving every minute of it.
When I started making my center ribs, I realized the the final width at the main spar was highly dependent on whether I pressed or hammered the edge flanges (pressed ended up wider than flow-formed/hammered, likely due to the shift in bend location when using the VAF flange straightening tool) and whether the joggles were done after forming with a separate steel block or milled into the forming block and done with the rest of the flange work. I ended up with about 0.060" difference in height on the first few 032 and 025 center ribs post-joggling, so went back in and adjusted to maintain a good match at the main spar between nose and center rib height. Reworking always risks work-hardening, so best to identify fit issues early.
Those little spar sections are a quick ref tool for all that final tweaking, and also help when it comes time to bend up the real spars. If you bought the factory spar kit, just duplicate the sections with some 2" wide scrap... that will allow a quick look at how closely your rib forming process is to a good fit to factory spars.
IMG_3840 2.jpgLast edited by SpruceForest; 10-07-2022, 01:31 PM.
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Since there is one chance to punch holes in the instrument panel I fabricated a trial instrument panel in plexiglass and mounted any devices that might have clearance issues. I am using a hinged electronics shelf behind the panel for mounting all the remote units. The Garmin G3X screen which pops out pretty easily along with the hinged electronics shelf should allow good access to any behind the panel wiring.
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Hoerner Wingtips Progress
I've now made both tips, and did a trial fitting today. I was then able to drill the machine screw holes in place, and trim them to final size. Tonight I've epoxied the trailing edge after aligning it with the ailerons. Next is to apply a fairing cream, sand, and paint.
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Update - finished and installed:
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Last edited by Nev; 11-17-2022, 01:34 PM.Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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How did you figure dimension / ratios?
However the width is identical to the original wingtip, so nothing too scientific. Given that the original rounded tips don't contribute to lift, the upper wing surface is now theoretically increased by approximately 8" (the wingtip width) being that it is essentially flat. I assume that this translates to a reduction in wing loading, and possibly a reduction in stall speed. Theoretically the sloped undersurface should move the tip vortices off the wingtip, and keep the top surface unencumbered with a small reduction in drag. Perhaps those with a background in aerodynamics could add more to the story.Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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Bent up a small section of aileron spar to check the fit all-around fit of the aileron nose/main ribs. It looks great and I'm super happy with how everything is fitting together. Being patient and working methodically has paid off.
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My first time pulling a trigger on a paint gun was with this project. I painted the Fuselage this weekend. Insignia White with Boulder Gray trim. The wings will be white too. The boulder Gray parts will be the belly, rudder, elevator, wing tips, Flaps and Ailerons. I'm using Stewarts Systems. When you get close to this point in your build, I recommend a weekend covering seminar for the system you choose. I cant imagine covering without the Stewarts class. Additionally, my instructor continues to be a mentor and source for trouble shooting.
I recommend Jared for your paint masks.
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Screen Shot 2022-10-11 at 3.13.50 PM.pngBrooks Cone
Southeast Michigan
Patrol #303, Kit build
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Looks great Brooks! As a low experience painter, I had very good luck with Stewarts paint by following instructions exactly. I'm betting your mentor is Marty Feehan, he was a tremendous help to me in diagnosing my problems with metallic silver.
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I also follow there guidance directly. I talked to Marty F. last week as I troubleshot a compressor moisture issue. John H. out of Wy. was my instructor and my mentor. These guys are Stewarts Tech support. I cant say enough good things.
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I finished installing cowling Skybolt Dzus fasteners with the adjustable bases. I ended up attaching them with screws. Fairly easy to install. It all came out OK so far. I am not in love with the overlap of the cowl doors and the lower cowling sheetmetal at the forward corner. I may putting a little bend in the forward corner.
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10 months into the project. Milestone reached. All ribs complete for the LSA. (116) by my count. Ailerons also pretty much done as well. Not pictured “extra” 3rd aileron On to the spars…..You do not have permission to view this gallery.
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Flaps on and rigged. These are barn doors!
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Looks good. Hard to see your trailing edge piece in the picture - whether the trailing edge has the pop rivets installed that Bob calls for on the plans. The trailing edges just come provisionally attached so you can adjust them if needed. Recently a builder covered without installing the correct pop rivets and it didn't go well. So thought I would mention it. Mark
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Trailing edge of ailerons and flaps all lined up with stretched string and pop riveted. I'll have to look in the hangar and see tomorrow if I used the 1/8" SS rivets Bob called for, I don't recall off hand if the holes were predrilled for 1/8" or 3/32" and possibly I used the smaller rivets.
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Minor milestone: I finished up the plumbing for the main and aux tank in the right wing. I was a little puzzled about how to finish off the vent for the aux tank. I ended up bringing it outboard to the last bay, and then bringing it down to an under-wing vent (Cessna-style). I will have access to replace the under-wing segment (if it ever gets damaged) by removing the wing tip and reaching through the last rib.
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