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Windows/Skylight Thickness

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  • #16
    Matt - Bob says you should be fine. He says: "Lexan is tough stuff". You do need to support it in the middle or a couple places. It would not be happy without some support. MG

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    • #17
      One more data point from Patrol Plans p.17. (Sky Light .06" Lexan)


      skylight.png
      Brooks Cone
      Southeast Michigan
      Patrol #303, Kit build

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      • #18
        Yea, I cut out the original supports that went on either side of the trim wheel, then added 1/2 square tubing in their place. I may also add another piece left to right in the middle. Overall, it's well supported.

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        • #19
          Brooks posted an excerpt from the Patrol plans a couple posts prior to this one. I am doing the skylight, and wanted to make sure I did the front correctly. If I put the windshield/skylight joint at the same height as the kit (B model, I think same as the A in this regard), will that be a decent match with the wings, or did anyone have to alter the side formers on the fuselage on the kit 4 place fuselage?

          I had originally bought some 1/2" sq steel tube for the middle formers, but decided to try aluminum channel instead. I thought it would be lighter. 3/4" 1/16" wall. I made a wood and aluminum former to slowly bend the channel, while holding the legs solidly in place. I did manage to make 2 useable pieces out of two 8 foot sections of channel, but after I was done, the legs still have some distortion in them. Only noticeable if you look end to end.

          Then I grabbed the 1/2" square 4130, put 2 big bolts in a big vice, and bent 2 pieces to match in about 10 minutes each. They look great, were very easy to make, and weighed 10 oz each compared to 8 for the aluminum. The steel is a lot stiffer, but I am sure the channel is more than strong enough. I haven't decided yet. 1" aluminum angle would probably also be good, but the 1/2" tube is much smaller visually.

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          • #20
            I'm waiting until I have the wings in place to finish mounting the skylight and windshield. I recall the manual saying you can bolt up a template and that will get you close but I don't want to chance it. Good to hear about the steel though, 1/2" 4130 square tube is a good choice I figure, might have done that myself if I had to do it again. AL channel looks nice though, but yeah I went through a few to get usable ones, no ripples luckily.
            Dave B.
            Plane Grips Co.
            www.planegrips.com

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            • #21
              I'm with you Dave. I have some ideas for the skylight but I'm not going to finalize anything until I get the wings and windshield on and see how everything goes together.

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              • svyolo
                svyolo commented
                Editing a comment
                I don't know if there is a B model kit flying yet. I believe most of the fuselage is the same. Not sure if the upper formers are the same as the A, but the airfoil is different.

                I think I will hold off mounting the windshield/skylight connector.

              • svyolo
                svyolo commented
                Editing a comment
                I don't know if there is a B model kit flying yet. I believe most of the fuselage is the same. Not sure if the upper formers are the same as the A, but the airfoil is different.

                I think I will hold off mounting the windshield/skylight connector.

            • #22
              Does anyone have a picture of how they secured the side windows to the door frame? I am doing the flip-up (aka seaplane) doors. The doors are 3/4in square tubing with an AL frame around the perimeter and AL bisecting the door where the door handle is. I have lots of door pics, but none that really show how the window is attached to the AL frame on the inside. Looking for ideas...thanks!

              Door.jpg

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              • AKKen07
                AKKen07 commented
                Editing a comment
                Paul I sandwiched the window plastic between the outer aluminum skin and aluminum angles which were riveted onto the frame of the windows.

            • #23
              On our blue plane I sandwiched the plastic between the steel and aluminum. On 303AP there is a bent aluminum angle with one leg against the steel and one leg against the plastic. The plastic sits inside the steel opening.

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              • alaskabearhawk
                alaskabearhawk commented
                Editing a comment
                I guess the question is how is it all attached? Is there sealant on one side? Both? Do the fasteners go through the window or just through the frame?

              • Mark Goldberg
                Mark Goldberg commented
                Editing a comment
                Best to not put any holes in the side window plexi. Best to attach the angles or the frame pieces like Bob shows in his Book (and now given with the kits). Then sandwich the plexi between the inside and outside frame/trim pieces. Capture the plexi instead of drilling holes in it. Mark

              • alaskabearhawk
                alaskabearhawk commented
                Editing a comment
                Unfortunately I never received Bob's book. But that's ok...I have this forum and LOTS of other resources. It's just that sometimes I just can't find an answer or a good picture.

            • #24
              Here is how it was done on 303AP
              IMG_20230119_172001773_HDR.jpg

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              • #25
                I did my seaplane doors similar to Jared's above.
                Nev Bailey
                Christchurch, NZ

                BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
                YouTube - Build and flying channel
                Builders Log - We build planes

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                • #26
                  From the "Bearhawk Book" here is how Bob shows the window detail. Of course there may be many ways to do this.

                  window detail.jpg

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                  • #27
                    I took some 1/2 in thick puck board and cut slots in on my table saw to fit the window thickness then cut into pices that would fit into 3/4 in U channel. I basically used a 90 degree angle piece at the bottum so i could put the window in and used a strip of alum to hold the window glide in screwed to the door frame. Installed the fore and aft piece first then the upper piece assembled with my windows and slid the bottum in. Makes a nice sliding window and no rubbing of the panes. I screwed .020 alum bent 90 degrees for a handle to the fore and aft end of the panes.

                    IMG_0854.jpgIMG_0561.jpgside window.jpgside window 1.jpgside window 2.jpg
                    Last edited by huntaero; 01-24-2023, 11:11 PM.

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