I've searched and can't find much about how people have routed their control stick wiring. At this time, I'm thinking I'd route the wiring for each stick through a hole drilled at the bottom of the vertical portion of the stick, probably the aft side of the stick and then route everything through the floor and up to the panel. Any other alternatives? Photos? Thanks!
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Control Stick Wiring and Routing
Collapse
X
-
I did something a little odd, but I’m looking forward to trying it out. I just put a ptt on the panel in a central location and bypassed the whole conundrum. I got the idea after using a panel mount ptt in a 737 Max which I loved…
For the copilot to use it there is a mini toggle switch with a “left” or “right” option.
Might be weird, but I might dig it!Almost flying!
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Here's how I exited the stick with the wiring. My plan is to mount a canon plug in the floor board leaving enough slack for full stick movement. If doing it over I would have ordered the stick grips with enough wire to get behind the panel. I don't plan on removing the floorboard for inspections, everything can be accessed from below.
DSCF1518.jpg
Comment
-
Originally posted by rodsmith View PostHere's how I exited the stick with the wiring....
Comment
-
Yikes Rod, be sure to let go before you sneeze, no telling what all might happen!
-
I think you forgot the sidewinder missile launcher button.
-
Wow!!
I'm guessing, if someone spends a lot of time in front of a MS Flight Simulator, controlling it with a joystick (with all those switches), one develops muscle memory for all that stuff.
Is the stick grip from a PC joystick, or was it custom built/3D-printed, or similar?
-
-
The grip that Rod has is from Infinity Aerospace. I have one on my RV-8. They are very configurable as to the type of buttons and where to put them. On the RV, I have a paddle switch for the flaps, a starter button, PTT, trim up/down (no aileron trim), A/P disconnect/CWS, and landing light. I use all of them when I fly.
Comment
-
Nice to know! I wonder, are there any standard layouts regarding the button / switch layouts, or do pilots simply pick whichever layout they choose?
Also, for those who prefer yoke over stick, are there any solutions for switches on yokes?
Comment
-
Pilots can choose what they want but the trigger switch and hat switch is fixed. You can put the paddle switch on either side and you can choose whether you want momentary or on/off switches for the other locations, as well as colors (black, blue, red). Check out the link. As I recall, they had a planning tool you could use to set the grip up your way.
-
-
Originally posted by Mark Dickens View Postroute the wiring for each stick through a hole drilled at the bottom of the vertical portion of the stick, probably the aft side of the stick and then route everything through the floor and up to the panel.
I routed mine out the back of the stick, above the hinge joint. It was harder to run the cable, but worth it longer term. Once the cable is outside the stick, it runs down past the hinge bolt (wear-proof cover in place) and off the back of the sticks under the carpet (again, covered). It then enters the side of the fuselage, with a plug for easy removal, and under the door frame, up and around to the back of the panel.
With this routing, it hardly bends the cable with normal use, and the cable is fully protected by the control stick structure at all points.Last edited by Battson; 04-29-2022, 01:09 AM.
Comment
-
Also keep in mind that the nearer the hinge point that the wire exits the stick, the less wear it will incur. If the wire exits the stick further from the hinge point, every movement of the control stick will cause more thrashing around of the wire.
Comment
-
Battson makes a good point. The Infinity Aerospace cable is not flexible enough to feed around the sharp corner where the control stick turns horizontal. I will look into a means of routing it aft, attached to the outside of the control stick.
Comment
-
Keep in mind that you can thin the cable down by consolidating grounds to one wire. You still need a separate audio "lo" ground, but standard grounds could be consolidated. You would have to cut the cover off of the cable he sends, but it's not that bad an operation. I did this on the RV-8 and it helped make the hole smaller where the cable exited the stick
-
-
I suppose most side-by-side seating arrangements will use a panel mounted push-pull throttle so this might be better applied to a Patrol or LSA, but PTT on the throttle feels very natural in the Yak 55.
85C0801F-9A9B-4EA1-BED6-05B591E60833.jpg35AB7702-C11C-46D7-B249-2F8FD5C55BF8.jpg
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Originally posted by Light&Sweet View PostI suppose most side-by-side seating arrangements will use a panel mounted push-pull throttle so this might be better applied to a Patrol or LSA, but PTT on the throttle feels very natural in the Yak 55.
- Likes 2
Comment
Comment