Nev that looks very interesting, looking forward to a pirep
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N678C
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojec...=7pfctcIVW&add
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Another data point here - I got an engine cover made with a synthetic duvet sewn inside. This is used with plugs in the boot cowl tunnel and cowl intake, underneath the cover, to trap the air inside the cowl. We've proven it's great alternative to an engine heater for overnight trips, in many ways it's superior to a heater in a backcountry environment. Of course, an engine cover plus a heater would be the ultimate solution.
For example:
On a winter night of about -5*C (20*F) the engine would normally cool to the same ambient temperature as the air. The oil and engine block would be below freezing temperature.
With the cover installed, the engine stays around 15 to 20*C (60 to 70*F) and it starts like a hot summers day.
Here's a comparison for discussion.
Engine cover for backcountry use:
Advantages:
- keeps the engine warm for 24hrs in freezing temperatures, or longer if the days are hot
- quick and easy to use
- no risks
- also protects paint, decals, etc. from wear and UV damage
Disadvantages:
- bulky
- may requires drying after use
Portable engine heater for backcountry use (i.e. fuel, battery, or electric heater):
Advantages:
- warms up the engine from cold
Disadvantages:
- takes a lot of time to use
- complex, can fail
- fire risk
- may be bulky depending on the one you choose
- may have permanently installed components
For multi-day trips in constantly cold temperatures, where the aircraft is left sitting outside while you're away, an engine cover plus a heater is the ultimate solution. No doubt about that.
Sorry about the bad light for photography, photo of cover installed. It attaches to the cockpit cover with a zip.
20240406_144451.jpg
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Those small portable batteries will likely power my Anti-Splat oil warmer a few times for 30-45 minutes each use.
Until it proves otherwise I think the Anti-Splat is a easy bulk free system, and I carry the charger anyway so not any added weight/bulkN678C
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojec...=7pfctcIVW&add
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I think they are 110V or 220V (for those elsewhere in the world). You'd need a few batteries or a transformer? I am very interest in a battery solution, please share your plans on how it will work.Last edited by Battson; 11-07-2024, 07:59 PM.
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I used the anti-splat heater plug for two winters if I recall. Worked well enough to buy another one to install in my build.
I don’t think it provides the complete engine preheat like the Tanis does on the cylinders, but it does a really nice job on the oil, case and air surrounding it.
By far the best bang for your buck you’ll invest in an airplane.
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I received a GSM plug from Aliexpress last week. The cost was NZD $45, which I thought was very reasonable. Yesterday I purchased a prepay SIM card and powered it up to test with a bedside lamp. It worked exactly as advertised right away. I can turn it on and off with just a phone call, or an SMS message. You can set it easily to only react to one number, which I've done. It can be set to run for a preset time (say 3 hours) and also sends a return SMS message to confirm its status.
The plan is to install the Antisplat oil heater, and next winter will use the GSM plug to activate it from home before flying.
48A5E392-BF29-4910-B20D-F8A6CCBE3BD6.jpg
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Nev Bailey
Christchurch, NZ
BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
YouTube - Build and flying channel
Builders Log - We build planes
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N678C
https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojec...=7pfctcIVW&add
Revo Sunglasses Ambassador
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ0...tBJLdV8HB_jSIA
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Well you can just buy the plug from the Aliexpress link above with an American plug I think. They usually don't charge for postage either.
Most telecom shops will sell a prepaid SIM card. Mine doesn't do data, only phone calls and SMS. I put $30 on it, it costs 50c per SMS, and I can top it up when it runs low. I know you can get one in the USA Jay because I got one there in July
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After consulting with some folks up here in Alaska and elsewhere, I decided on using E-Z Heat heating pads for my engine. I'm also using a custom Hornet 45 to heat the cockpit (40F/4.4C temp setting) and a SwitcheOn 2-channel cellular switch to control them both. I have covers for the cowl, prop and spinner. And yes, it is winter here in Alaska!
I uploaded a video of my engine heating pad installation on YouTube: https://youtu.be/EKQawex_IDU
20241101_173941.jpg 20241103_154603.jpg 20241103_154901.jpgLast edited by alaskabearhawk; 11-10-2024, 05:19 AM.
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Great video, Paul. I'm looking forward to hearing how it works for you this winter.
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I really enjoyed this product, while I had it. It works well and gets an IO-540 engine up to about 60*C in about an hour, sometimes longer if it's cold out.
The problem I experienced, was I needed to disassemble the engine and remove the heater pad in the process. The pad still worked great afterwards - I still have it today, but the company would not supply a new 3M adhesive pad to reattach it (probably worth about $0.50!!). They said I had to purchase a whole new heater pad from them, despite being an experimental aircraft. I will not be buying another one from that company.
I like the Anti-Splat heater design better, easily removable.
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That is interesting on a few levels. The 3M VRB adhesive in variant forms is readily available online, so sourcing shouldn’t have been a problem. I bought an E-Z Heat 540 kit from an online retailer and I had questions about the installation. I called E-Z Heat and after a few questions it was clear that my product, even though it was “new” in the package, was very old…over 15 years and maybe more. They said just send it to them and they would replace it with the latest version, no charge. I sent it to them, along with a voluntary check for $15 to cover shipping, and I received a new version the following week. Kudos to E-Z Heat from my perspective.
I did look at the AntiSplat heater, but it wasn’t an option for me. When I got the engine parts back from Divco, it was clear the right drain plug hadn’t been removed, so I used the left side for my SafAir drain plug. At one point I did try to remove the right plug, But, with a significant amount of force, it didn’t budge. It was probably there since initial installation in 1967, so I let that dragon rest in peace and didn’t want to poke it again! I probably would have gone the AntiSplat route if the drain plug was cooperative.
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