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  • #46
    Just offering a data point. Currently using two 75W incandescent lightbulbs in the engine compartment and an insulated engine blanket. I leave the lights on 24/7.

    Overnight temps got down to -3F. I use multi-viscosity oil and while I’d prefer warmer engine temperatures I’m comfortable starting my engine at 40F and higher.
    IMG_6233.jpg
    Last edited by whee; 01-22-2025, 11:48 AM.
    Scratch Built 4-place Bearhawk. Continental IO-360, 88" C203 McCauley prop.

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    • #47
      I also used to use the lightbulb heater method, but got frustrated with the short life and fragility of the bulbs. Several times i arrived at the hangar to a cold airplane. i replaced the bulbs with these cheap stick on heaters. people use them for reptile cage warmers and such. i think i paid $25 for mine. below is an example. stick them on anything metal, like the inside of a drop light or a plate of steel, and hang them where you need them. they have never failed ( yet).

      IMG_1115.png
      Attached Files
      Last edited by arborite; 01-22-2025, 11:19 AM.

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      • #48
        I've installed the Antisplat Oil Sump heater the last few days. It was very straight forward to install - around an hour total. I made a small aluminum bracket to attach the 3 pin plug to the engine mount, and the electric extension cord is attached through the lower air exit. It's remotely activated by mobile phone using a GSM plug attachment from Aliexpress (NZ$45).

        Yesterday I tested the setup, although it's summertime here so the results are slightly academic. I activated the heater, drove to the hangar, and 2.5 hours after starting the heater I disconnected it and went flying. The oil temperature sensor is not located in the sump so it reads ambient until after engine start. Yesterday, ambient was about 20°c (68°f), and 2 minutes after start the oil temp was reading 33°c (91°f) once circulating. Very interested to see how it performs in the cold but first indications are that it should work well.

        09879B1E-9111-4C7E-8D74-CF4520E3A1AB.jpg

        6525EEBA-B928-40F3-BA08-936196EC4A35.jpg

        352F52CD-F0A6-4C1F-BCF1-B35D6A019755.jpg

        Nev Bailey
        Christchurch, NZ

        BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
        YouTube - Build and flying channel
        Builders Log - We build planes

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        • #49
          I was still using 100W breakin oil, and needed to preheat as it was getting down to 30-40 degrees. I wanted to use one of the oil drain plugs but can't get the plug out (too scared to try). I just used cheap heater and 6" duct hose off amazon, hooked that up to a cheap timer switch Works pretty good. +50F over ambient within 90 minutes on the cylinders. I do have plugs for the cowl intakes, and put an old sleeping bag over the cowl for insulation.

          No matter what I use for a heater, I do want to use a cellular switch. Haven't found one yet in the US that I like

          heater.jpg heater.jpg

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          • #50
            Here's an update on the Antisplat oil sump heater that I installed (post above). It's run through a GSM activated plug (NZ$45 - AliExpress). So far I'm very pleased with the results. It's not winter here yet, so I'll report further once we get below freezing, but early indications are a 15-20 °c increase in oil temperature after 3-4 hours. I'm now using it routinely each time I go flying. It also appears to be transferring heat through the engine block and the cylinders are coming up to temp quicker. Installation was very simple and relatively quick.
            Last edited by Nev; 05-13-2025, 12:19 AM.
            Nev Bailey
            Christchurch, NZ

            BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
            YouTube - Build and flying channel
            Builders Log - We build planes

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            • rodsmith
              rodsmith commented
              Editing a comment
              My result also, very happy with it.

          • #51
            I also switched to the anti-splat and it has been working well. I have not yet come up with an elegant way to manage the electrical plug. I'd love for it to be accessible from the lower cowl outlet but I need to keep it clear of the exhaust.

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            • #52
              I used it to heat the oil for my first oil change as it was too windy to warm the oil via a flight. Worked great and the oil sump was hot to the touch after being plugged in for 30 minutes
              N678C
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              • #53
                I had the cowl off to do some "tweaks" to cooling and intake, and I added the oil plug heater as well, although a 400W unit instead of the one Anti-Splat sell. I didn't do it at first as I couldn't get the plug out of the bottom of the sump and was afraid of trying. Heat and "shock" did the trick and it came right out.

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                • #54
                  Originally posted by jaredyates View Post
                  I also switched to the anti-splat and it has been working well. I have not yet come up with an elegant way to manage the electrical plug. I'd love for it to be accessible from the lower cowl outlet but I need to keep it clear of the exhaust.
                  Jared I've mounted my plug to the engine mount, left side, above the exhausts and beside the oil breather tube. It's accessible through the lower cowl air outlet. Pretty easy to reach. Very happy with the installation, the usability, and functionality of it all.
                  Nev Bailey
                  Christchurch, NZ

                  BearhawkBlog.com - Safety & Maintenance Notes
                  YouTube - Build and flying channel
                  Builders Log - We build planes

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                  • #55
                    I bundled mine and attached it to the lower left leg of the motor mount.

                    20241110_144002.jpg

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                    • #56
                      Originally posted by jaredyates View Post
                      I also switched to the anti-splat and it has been working well. I have not yet come up with an elegant way to manage the electrical plug. I'd love for it to be accessible from the lower cowl outlet but I need to keep it clear of the exhaust.
                      I mounted mine flush on the firewall, by using a flat-backed plug which I bolted to the stainless steel. This kind of thing, I've no actual photo to hand sorry:

                      image.png​.
                      It is the tidiest solution I've seen yet.

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                      • Nev
                        Nev commented
                        Editing a comment
                        That's pretty nifty !
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