Axle Nut Not Fully Engaged

[spinningwrench]

DSC_1691-Small.jpg
I'm using Grove wheels on my Patrol. When I torque the axle nut down to the correct tightness it doesn't fully engage the axle and is about one thread short. Has anyone else experienced this?

[Archer39J]

Don't quote me, but I don't think the castle area is much counted on for stiction. This may be in a manual but I forget, there was still plenty of room for the pin.


Here's my gear:

Stbd.PNG

I'm probably wrong, but at least there's a lot of engagement.

[JBC]

On the inside of the wheel there is a felt washer and a thin metal washer to hold it in place. The felt is to keep dirt out of the wheel axle. Remove the felt and metal washer and you will have enough room for a full engagement of the axle nut. Don't neglect inspecting/cleaning the wheel bearings. The axle need to be 1/4'1/2" longer.

John Ciolino
Patrol

[whee]

IMO it’s find how it is. My plane is about the same.

[robcaldwell]

Mine ended up about the same.

IMG_1821.jpg

[spinningwrench]

Did you end up removing the thin washer and felt from the inside of the axle? That would help but would remove some important dust protection, cotter key drilling looks nice.

[robcaldwell]

No I did not remove those washer from the inside as I, like you, wanted protection in that area from dirt and crap.

Yes, the cotter key came out super nice! I know a guy with a jig for that! LOL

[zkelley2]

Same with my cleavland wheels. Axles are a bit short.

[svyolo]

I kind of think they need to be like that. The axle nuts aren't very thick, and the hole for the cotter pin isn't that large. Not much engagement range between can't get the pin in, and the pin is proud of the nut and isn't keep it from turning.

[spinningwrench]

Well one should drill the cotter key hole to match the nut so having a little longer axle would be desirable.

[svyolo]

LOL. My gear is basically assembled and covered, but I haven't tried to pin the nut because I will wait till it is ready to fly to lube it up. I guess I didn't realize they weren't drilled.

[spinningwrench]

I made a nice jig for drilling the axle precisely to match the cotter key. Rob Caldwell used it and your welcome to borrow it when you get to that point.

[rodsmith]

I had cleaveland wheels on hand when making my axles. The plans length seemed short to me so I added a quarter inch, glad I did.

[Jhankins]

spinningwrench would you mind posting a picture of the jig you made for drilling the axle?

[spinningwrench]

Here is a CAD drawing of the split axle drilling jig. The two drill bushings allow one to drill a perfectly centered hole from either side so the cotter pin goes in easily.

JIG ASSEMBLY.pdf

[TimTall]

Nice work on that jig! I wish I had the CAD skills to draw things like that.

Just to clarify for those that don't have access to those skills, there is no need to use a jig. You have a higher chance of screwing up,but if you're careful, it's not hard to drill the holes through the axles by hand. I got the nut tightened up to where i wanted it, drilled one hole through the nut, then stuffed a cotter pin in that hole to hold it in place and drilled the other side. No issues.

Don't take this post the wrong way. There is nothing wrong with building cool tools like that. I think it's awesome if you're able. I just don't want newer members to think it's an requirement.

[spinningwrench]

The free Solidworks edition is available through the EAA. Fun skill to pick up.

[alaskabearhawk]

I just used a V-block drill guide and a C-clamp. Worked out just fine.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=yeeeha&project=527&category=7249&log=286941&row=1

[spinningwrench]

Many ways to do it of course. My system lets you predetermine the exact cotter key placement and drill a hole in an already threaded surface. I have loaned to several people who really liked it.