BearHawk 5 school of construction

How I replicated the mylar print Dwg#4 cheaply & perfectly accurate. I used a glass table with a lamp underneath to hand trace the pattern on to calligraphy paper. This type of paper comes on a roll the very same as paper for a fax machine. It great, super simple & cost effective. Make as many copies as required.:D​

I recommend your method... as i have tried duplication at drafting/printers and there is always errors...sometimes as big a quarter inch on wing pattern length ...scanner errors... printing errors..ect add up to a pattern that is not as exact as the original...

i use use a similar method of taping the pattern to sliding glass door and using sunlight to trace... but your method is better in that the pattern is flat and not stressed in any way...
 
Last edited:
Careful using large sheets of paper for a pattern. There can be large seasonal dimensional changes due to variations in humidity. Over a long length it can be sizeable. That is why the wing template is drawn on vellum or mylar which is not hydroscopic.

agree 100%...I bought some blank vellum from a local printer to make my copy....
 
Plane parts! Aileron ribs complete. :cool:I have six fails for various reasons over flanging & cracking, 1 flanging backwards, not deburring properly causing cracking! However I am feeling very good about getting some ailerons built. That 8"wide flange beam that the parts are sitting on is going to be a homemade 120" brake. Then we can look after our own braking locally and cost-effectively. It can be done! Have an awesome day 💯
 

Attachments

  • 16051297447193308906839667247760.jpg
    16051297447193308906839667247760.jpg
    984.4 KB · Views: 0
  • 16051298217995270351901852554446.jpg
    16051298217995270351901852554446.jpg
    991.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 16051298802313192641385232390966.jpg
    16051298802313192641385232390966.jpg
    968.9 KB · Views: 0
Eleven LH flap ribs ready for primer! This my way of cheerleading for myself. :rolleyes: fabrication of the brake starts to tomorrow!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201121_185655_1.jpg
    IMG_20201121_185655_1.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20201121_185632_1.jpg
    IMG_20201121_185632_1.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
Just some more cheerleading from me doing my best to be encouraging to all builders. Lots of parts building going on here. 12 more right hand nose ribs to go 🍻 Everything is 100%!
 

Attachments

  • 16073937588868170154841395754382.jpg
    16073937588868170154841395754382.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • 16073938964876665091162654826393.jpg
    16073938964876665091162654826393.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
Just some more simple cheerleading right and left nose ribs completed they are considered parts ready for paint!
 

Attachments

  • 16080769675922366553592096351566.jpg
    16080769675922366553592096351566.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 0
  • 16080770793126313535106961577134.jpg
    16080770793126313535106961577134.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
Big day of folding up 2024-T3 spars. All of them are now complete. We should be able to live with a fit like this what does the judges panel think? :cool: The fit should work! Eh👍cheers to all the builders on the forum.
 

Attachments

  • 16082443676552907136831457892802.jpg
    16082443676552907136831457892802.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
  • 16082445453845927558241779757639.jpg
    16082445453845927558241779757639.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
General cheerleading myself onto completion. The center ribs are a formidable amount of work I finally got mine roughed out now I have to straightening them all. Happy holidays everyone. We Can Do It;):cool:
 

Attachments

  • 16089465254745926534589973131960.jpg
    16089465254745926534589973131960.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
Hello all you crazy airplane enthusiast:cool:​​​​​ Just some more cheerleading from the BH5 builder's corner. I can not believe it. I have completed forming wing ribs! Every part has been straightened. Yay beers around the house! Time to complete 450hrs. Completely encourage anyone to tackle this task.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210106_160502_1.jpg
    IMG_20210106_160502_1.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8349.jpg
    photo8349.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 1
How did those cap strip turn out? What you can expect. Looking at the photos of the cut strips. You can see that the 1st strip that I cut off the 4'x12' sheet had some residential edge stress left in it from the T3 tempering process. The little twist in #1 strip making it unacceptable. The next 13 strips that I cut off are as straight as an arrow, well within acceptable tolerances. Final width dimensions 1.255- 1.275. & There is enough material left over from the 4x12 sheet for a second set of cap strips. Cheers to ya all!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210107_175942_1.jpg
    IMG_20210107_175942_1.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20210107_180243_1.jpg
    IMG_20210107_180243_1.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
Perfect looking ribs. You have a long way to go so make sure you have the radio on and do not take any long breaks. Breaks grow into weeks then months. It takes discipline to cross the finish lines. We hung pictures of nice looking Bearhawks and other aircraft that had features that we would like to use as a visual goal. Most important if you have a wife and/or family make sure that you still make time for them. Celebrate those MVP days and hoist an occasional beer to the milestone. (MVP=Major Visual Progress). You are off to an excellent start being able to build quality parts as it will give an amazing set of wings. I grin every time I look down our wings as they are clean smooth pieces of art that started out the same as you have. Plan, look ahead and have the materials waiting so the work flows through all its stages seamlessly. Congratulations on a great start.
 
Thank-you for the reply. I realize now building a plane is a fairly serious project. My goals are not to make any mistakes that will set me back or have any Do Overs. Working on spars right now. I need to decide on what primer to use before I start riveting cap strips.
 
More general cheerleading here. Finished off making the parts on the 7B drawing. Completed in 10hrs.All sanded up nice & smooth. No notchs anywhere.
 

Attachments

  • 16110169150202494651123109061811.jpg
    16110169150202494651123109061811.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
Spar layout & construction. I struggled with the possibility of being out of alignment front to back, drilling an incorrect sized hole in the wrong spot. Who knows! I am confident I could find away to make a mistake. Simply because the Main & Rear Spar share so many common measurements between them. So this is my solution. I made one pattern for both main & rear spars that are associated with each other on a full scale 8" x 8" x 15' piece of scrap I had laying around. This will also serve as a pattern during the assembly riveting process. Hit that like button if you find this stuff interesting! Cheers & happy building.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210125_183418_1.jpg
    IMG_20210125_183418_1.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8449.jpg
    photo8449.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8450.jpg
    photo8450.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8451.jpg
    photo8451.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8452.jpg
    photo8452.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8453.jpg
    photo8453.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8454.jpg
    photo8454.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 1
Figure I post a weekend cheerleading picture. All layouts have been confirmed & drilling has commenced. Used a laser level to level the entire assembly up. So far the is good! Hair straight back. However I did start with the rear spars caps. Lol cheapest material if I do have a screw up:rolleyes:
 

Attachments

  • photo8490.jpg
    photo8490.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8491.jpg
    photo8491.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8492.jpg
    photo8492.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8493.jpg
    photo8493.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
Hello, we have had some really cold weather here in CYQU - 45°C Craziness. However no fear here! We are all done pre drilling all spar caps. Moved on to jig construction. Here are some pictures of how the progress is going. Any questions feel free to ask or DM me would be best. Not overly talented at typing.
 

Attachments

  • photo8511.jpg
    photo8511.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8512.jpg
    photo8512.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8513.jpg
    photo8513.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8514.jpg
    photo8514.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Really making big progress now. Spars are going to be assembled very quickly on this jig. I could not find any measurable deficiencies with is jig. The jig worked out really well. Very pleased with myself. :cool: enjoy the pictures pound up the likes. ​​
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210209_181151_1.jpg
    IMG_20210209_181151_1.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210209_181139_1.jpg
    IMG_20210209_181139_1.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210209_181135_1.jpg
    IMG_20210209_181135_1.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210209_181114_1.jpg
    IMG_20210209_181114_1.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210209_181102_1.jpg
    IMG_20210209_181102_1.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210209_181213_1.jpg
    IMG_20210209_181213_1.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
Good evening nothing out of the normal Just general cheerleading. Figured I would show you where I'm at on my right hand for rear spar & I moved to lightning holes that were conflicting with the pocket rib stations. Basically the two holes at either end of the aileron were moved. Inbroad holes 1.75 & outbroad 1.5
 

Attachments

  • 16132695897677855387352779358144.jpg
    16132695897677855387352779358144.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • 16132697926062778684931508611225.jpg
    16132697926062778684931508611225.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 1
  • 16132698338143043399776806509373.jpg
    16132698338143043399776806509373.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
since these strips cost a fortune to buy any tips here are appreciated...

Ive not used this sort of saw,,,it looks like a typical circular saw but as you said meant for metal.....but...I dont see a fence/track for the saw to follow against to keep the cut straight, is there something the saw has itself to guide it or did you use a guide/fence/track not shown in the picture?...or did you just eyeball it with the guide on the saw.

on the evolution web site it mentions parallel edge guide..is that what you used..did you do any modifications to it so as to cut thin metal with it or did it work like a champ out of the box?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
since you are one of the 1st to scratch build the bravo wings....any commentary is appreciated..


just curious why you moved the holes, did you have them marked in the wrong place or is there anything on the plans to look out for that is tricky?

... I like what you did...doing the stations 1st and holes 2nd means you cant put the holes in the wrong spot...and is a great logical way to it

Thanks
 
Last edited:
I double checked my interpretation / calculations of the dimensions from the drawing. I am correct. However there's interference on either end of the aileron with the aileron skin 0.020 pocket rib stations on the rear spar.
Resulting in my decision to relocate to the lightening holes.
 
Last edited:
looks great....

what source you using for your bending formula? what you found in the build manual or Tony Bingelis...ect.....the bend looks great and your work very professional...
 
Last edited:
The saw comes with everything required to get the job done out of the box. before you start cutting on the sheet ! draw square reference lines just incase you get out of square as you cut. Something to get you back to a straight & square to the sheet again. I only used the fence to make the cuts. I was careful to make sure I stayed straight & square with the saw & fence as a guild. It worked great. All strips measure 1.265 ish very uniform.
If you are uncomfortable using the fence as a guild. When ordering your 2024 sheets include a piece of 1/4 x 1.5 X 1.5 6061 angle. This material is straight as an arrow when it comes off the rolling mill & makes a super straight edge OR in this case with a set of clamps a straight edge guild for your saw.

There is enough material in a 0.125 x 4' x 12' sheet for two airplanes.
 
a few more questions for you about the Evolution saw

there does not seem to be many retailers selling the saw in Canada, on the Homedepot.ca site they have a saw but its an orange version that does not seem to have the guide like your model has. Did you buy it directly from Evolution?...Amazon.ca does have it but I thought id ask you to see if there was a Canadian seller I could support...the amazon model looks like an similar version of yours

https://www.amazon.ca/Evolution-Power-Tools-STEELSAW2-14-Inch/dp/B003TX1UPO

did you cut all you spar C channel with that saw also...I was wondering if it could handle that thin material if it was supported and the guides go that wide....or did you use a shear or other method to make those

does your evolution saw have 2 parallel guides for the front and back...or one guide the whole saw length..it looks like there is different guides between models..

Thanks
 
Last edited:
General cheerleading! All wing spars have been fit up & are being deburred right now. As well builting a Alodine holding trough out of 6" sc40 PVC pipe. To clean & treat all the spar parts in. It took me basically 200+/- hours to fit out all 4 wing spars.
​​​​I very happy to be moving forward.
 

Attachments

  • photo8768.jpg
    photo8768.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8769.jpg
    photo8769.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8770.jpg
    photo8770.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8771.jpg
    photo8771.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 1
  • photo8772.jpg
    photo8772.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
For cutting aluminum, you can use a good quality standard circular saw with a good carbide blade designed for aluminum (just a different tooth layout than a standard wood crosscut or rip blade). I used a festool track saw to cut all my skins to rough and final dimensions. Works much better than snips or shear. I cut on top of a piece of 1/2 MDF, OSB or 2” foam cutting cutting through the AL and into the backing board 1/16-1/8”. I use a vac connected to the saw to suck up chips. Very clean cut that needs very little clean up. The circular saw to cut the cap strips was recommended by Bob. I also use a chop saw with AL blade to cut all the bar to length. With a chop saw just make sure you use a zero clearance fence, made of some scrap plywood, to keep cutoffs from getting caught by blade and flying around.
 
N3UW, 100% agree. The saw I used is defiantly over kill for the job of cutting cap 0.125 strips . I had the saw laying around is all. The main reason I even posted about how I cut the cap strips is actually in PROTEST to the outrageous price of 2024-T3 flat bar!
 
Sir Newton. Great work you are doing. I completely agree with all you are doing to cut AL. I had to buy those overly expensive cap strips because I did not discover the circular saw cuts early on. I did help a friend cut his from sheet material. Quite easy. You may want to consider making yourself a cutting guide for your saw similar to a track. Back a few year again I posted about what I did and a link to a video for making it. Here is the body of the message.
I have cut a bunch of aluminum with a circular saw. All you need is a good carbide non-Ferris blade and a long enough straight edge. I use a festool tracksaw but a regular circular saw will work well. A while back i cut all the cap strips needed for two patrols in under an hour. . Very little cleanup needed on the pieces. Bob says this is how he does it himself. Here is what you need.

first you need a saw setup. Making a track saw is easy. Here is a video from this old house that shows one way.
https://youtu.be/rbTvzViDZmo

then you need the circular saw, the proper blade and a table.

For the table, make a table long enough that you can hold the full sheet of aluminum. I used a couple of pieces of OSB on top of saw horses with 12’ 2x4 under for support. The osb will be used hold the AL sheet and also allow the saw to cut about 1/16” into the osb so the cut is clean on the AL and will also prevent the saw from catching on the AL.

Place the AL on the table so that where the cut is will be over the OSB. You want to make sure you cut into the OSB. Now mark the AL and setup the track and clamp down. Set the saw depth so that it cuts through the AL and only about 1/16 or so into th OSB. You do not want to cut all the way through the osb. If you have the ability to hook a shop vac to th circular saw, it makes less flying AL chips. No simply saw through it. For me I cut through the entire 12’ length in under 30 seconds. Cuts like I was cutting through hardboard. Make sure you are wearing eye protection. I just ran a vixen file done the edge once to take off an stress risers,

I use the same method to cut all wing skins also.

If you use the OSB subsurface, track for the saw and proper blade, you will be surprised with how easy and clean cutting this method works. There is actually less cleanup with the saw cut than with a shear. I have cut a bunch of aluminum with a circular saw. All you need is a good carbide non-Ferris blade and a long enough straight edge. I use a festool tracksaw but a regular circular saw will work well. A while back i cut all the cap strips needed for two patrols in under an hour. . Very little cleanup needed on the pieces. Bob says this is how he does it himself. Here is what you need.

first you need a saw setup. Making a track saw is easy. Here is a video from this old house that shows one way.
https://youtu.be/rbTvzViDZmo

then you need the circular saw, the proper blade and a table.

For the table, make a table long enough that you can hold the full sheet of aluminum. I used a couple of pieces of OSB on top of saw horses with 12’ 2x4 under for support. The osb will be used hold the AL sheet and also allow the saw to cut about 1/16” into the osb so the cut is clean on the AL and will also prevent the saw from catching on the AL.

Place the AL on the table so that where the cut is will be over the OSB. You want to make sure you cut into the OSB. Now mark the AL and setup the track and clamp down. Set the saw depth so that it cuts through the AL and only about 1/16 or so into th OSB. You do not want to cut all the way through the osb. If you have the ability to hook a shop vac to th circular saw, it makes less flying AL chips. No simply saw through it. For me I cut through the entire 12’ length in under 30 seconds. Cuts like I was cutting through hardboard. Make sure you are wearing eye protection. I just ran a vixen file done the edge once to take off an stress risers,

I use the same method to cut all wing skins also.

If you use the OSB subsurface, track for the saw and proper blade, you will be surprised with how easy and clean cutting this method works. There is actually less cleanup with the saw cut than with a shear.
 
Corrosion protection & Paint Preparation of wing spars. I used 6" sc40 PVC pipe cut in half. One tank for alodine, one tank for cleaner and to wash water tanks. Over all it work ok, the end result was very good, and the procedure to work with the chemicals was safe. However alot of work to complete.
 

Attachments

  • photo8816.jpg
    photo8816.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8817.jpg
    photo8817.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8818.jpg
    photo8818.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8819.jpg
    photo8819.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
Good day BearHawkers, Just some more cheerleading going on here. Uploaded a few pictures of my spars in various stages of riveting. I am trucking right along with the project. Ordered up all the tubing for the fuselage. Hit that like button so I know someone is actually looking at these posts! or don't.
 

Attachments

  • photo8892.jpg
    photo8892.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8893.jpg
    photo8893.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8894.jpg
    photo8894.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8895.jpg
    photo8895.jpg
    937.8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo8896.jpg
    photo8896.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
Those look awesome. And I am incredibly envious of both the amount of space you have to work in and the real-man tools I see in the background :-)
 
Greetings to my fellow builders. Just general project cheerleading here, Attached are pictures of RH main rib with all the stiffeners ready of riveting. It took roughly 30 mins per rib to fabricate, drill holes, prepare with anodyne & install the stiffeners. Slow & steady progress every week is the goal. LH ribs next week & maybe receive my rivet order from Hanson. Cheers All
 

Attachments

  • photo8937.jpg
    photo8937.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8938.jpg
    photo8938.jpg
    893.7 KB · Views: 0
Sir Newton;

The progress you are making is astonishing to me. It took me a year to fabricate a set of ribs. Would you share some details with the group how you can go from a rib blank to a rib with ready to install while spending 30 minutes each on them?

BTW, I often think to myself "using today tools and technology, can we standardize and declare "Industry Best Practices"?" Meaning what is the best way to do a job with the least effort, having the best result in order that we can improve our (meaning Builders of Bearhawks) completion rate, and get a completed airframe out the door in less than 10 years. It looks to me like your spar and rib production is achieving that goal.
 
Senor Bcone1381
The 30 min time frame I refer to in post# 43 is not from a raw rib blank. It took me 30 minutes per rib was to fabricate & anodyne the 0.025 stiffeners & install them on each rib. All parts sanded & deburred. No short cuts taken. Today I finished off 1-14 LH main rib stiffeners. I should tell you that I am a journeyman welder & steamfitter with 25+yrs in the trade of metal fabrication. 1st time working with this light gage aluminum though. I agree with you about standardizing "Industry Best Practices"
I thought someone had wrote a book/ instruction manual on how to build BearHawks & was selling it to everyone already? To date I have spent 719 hrs on this project proper. That would include making material list, ordering material, & fabrication. I am not sure if you could call that fast.
 
Last edited:
Best Practice.....There are several folk who have written material. Russ Erb, Eric Newton, The Patrol Book, probably a score and a half of Beartracks articles. Is the Bob Stick the best practice for flanging a rib lightening hole, or wood dies in a press or a female wood die and a rubber press?

Those of you with a career of fabrication experience....you are fabricating about 2000 hours a year....20 years is 40,000 hours of experience....are I think are very well suited to guide the "Bearhawk plans built Best Practice of Fabrication" Also, as we move ahead into the digital age, the Best Practices will change. CNC routing, and 3d printing using Solid Works data will change "Best Practices" in the future I think. If we can convince Bob that his design will remain Copy Write Protected is might happen faster.

Its all about improvement of the completion rate.
 
Hello BearHawkers, Just some general cheerleading here. SO, Riveting on LH main & rear spars are complete. The spars came out straight as an arrow they are prefect! May I highly recommend using a jig similar to the one I built. I do not want to over step here, however the jig works like a hot dam. The electrical strut I used to celeco the spar to are at the Stations A, B, D, & E. Now we are working on bucking all the RH spar rivets. If any one has any questions. Just ask. I really like chatting about BearHawk anything. cheers !
 

Attachments

  • photo8987.jpg
    photo8987.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8988.jpg
    photo8988.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • photo8989.jpg
    photo8989.jpg
    878.8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo8990.jpg
    photo8990.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
This is what the RH main spar looks like up on the jig after I stuffed proper length rivets into every single hole ! before I start bucking rivets. There is a celeco every tenth hole. The masking tape is needed to hold rivets in place while you start to buck rivets. LH main took 12 hrs to buck all the rivets RH should be quicker with some experience under our belts. Cheer enjoy your week end.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210430_174753[1].jpg
    IMG_20210430_174753[1].jpg
    978.3 KB · Views: 0
Bcone1381, lol, Yes I am. I even bought 2 rolls of 3/4. I am just to cheap to use it.
I watching Mike Patey bending spars on his UT channel. Mike looks like a ton of fun!
After his video I have decided to model up my wings in Solid Works to run an FEA
 
Last edited:
We have passed a major milestone. The wing spars have been completed. If I had to guess it took in and around 300 hours to complete all 4 wing spars. I have kept a detailed log so if anyone cares about the exact time. I could figure it out. Build on Bearhawkers! BUILD ON!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210503_164249.jpg
    IMG_20210503_164249.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20210503_164230.jpg
    IMG_20210503_164230.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
It is alodine, I had a chat with our local inspector today about priming before his pre-cover inspection, He did not care one way or the other. So I will use Endura EPC2 sealing primer when the day comes to prime the wings. I am pleased with how the spars came out. I am fabricating a jig to help assemble the wings ribs to the spars.
Cheers Gerry your comments are really appreciated thank-you
 
Last edited:
Hello everyone who reads this message of general cheerleading the project on. We have now moved on to rib placement between the spars ! This is how I set my spars up on welding stands that can be adjusted for height as required. I am using a self leveling lazar level to set up the assembly. I happy to report the spars are straight measurable deflection is less then 1.5 mm overall end to end. This wing is far straighter then any Cessna wing. Today I trimmed and set #8 & #1 rib. Forgot to take pictures before I left the shop. I will post more asap. Any questions you want to ask. Feel free.
 

Attachments

  • photo9098.jpg
    photo9098.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
  • photo9100.jpg
    photo9100.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
Last edited:
The positions are station B & D. Basically they are simple mock ups of the aileron & flap drive linkage. Dwg: 11B
 
People may start calling this a aircraft wing!
I haven't been posting much with spring coming to Rocky Mountain Peace Country I have chores around the homestead, rototilling the garden, raking up last year's leaves, putting a new roof on the south side of the barn the list is endless. I just want to build airplane all day kinda like being a teenager!
 

Attachments

  • photo9127.jpg
    photo9127.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
  • photo9128.jpg
    photo9128.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 1
  • photo9129.jpg
    photo9129.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
  • photo9130.jpg
    photo9130.jpg
    798.2 KB · Views: 1
  • photo9131.jpg
    photo9131.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 1
  • photo9132.jpg
    photo9132.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
Hola Bearhawkers. This past while been working on the HoneyDo list However we have 4 days of rain forecast! SO Back on the Bearhawk. Finished fitting all the main ribs in the RH wing & built the jig for the nose ribs as per Big Bob Barrows builder's manual. Works like a charm. Keep it square & straight & nose ribs should take 15-20 minutes per ribs. LH wing should go of with out a hitch. Attached are some pictures of the set up.
 

Attachments

  • photo9199.jpg
    photo9199.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9200.jpg
    photo9200.jpg
    874.6 KB · Views: 0
  • photo9201.jpg
    photo9201.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9202.jpg
    photo9202.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9203.jpg
    photo9203.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
Cheerleading update pictures for my BH5 wings. Simply been busy riveting structures, building the skinning jig, & fabricating fuel tank bay false spar. Purchased new shortie rivet gun from YardStore. Two thumbs for those tight spots around false spars!
Hope your all enjoying your projects as much as I am.
 

Attachments

  • photo9400.jpg
    photo9400.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9401.jpg
    photo9401.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9402.jpg
    photo9402.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9403.jpg
    photo9403.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9404.jpg
    photo9404.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9405.jpg
    photo9405.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
Just some more Bearhawk cheerleading. GO BEARHAWK GO! Right & left wing super structures fabricating is now complete. Simple riveting left now. There are many little very! time consuming task to get the wings truly to this stage. I had no idea. Fuel tanks are a work in progress, basically they need to be welded & tested. I am estimating 80 US gallons in the wings. Gona start cutting skins & building a nose forming vacuum jig. Any comments are welcome. Cheers to all from GP Alberta Canada.
 

Attachments

  • photo9607.jpg
    photo9607.jpg
    843.3 KB · Views: 0
  • photo9608.jpg
    photo9608.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9609.jpg
    photo9609.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9610.jpg
    photo9610.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 0
Last edited:
Thanks for posting these great pics

maybe you mentioned it already somewhere else...I noticed you didn't put any holes in the small ribs behind the tank...was wondering your thoughts on what you're going to do there..
 
Commendable observation. In hindsight, I would abandon the D hole out right. Enlarging main tank by estimated 3 US gallons. I left that corridor large enough to accommodate flap torque tube.
 
Biult a 49" wide nose forming roller for wing skins, very simple to build. 1" 1/2 & 2" pipe that rotate about one & other with a 0.060 clearance between the two pipes. The pipes are also interchangeable should you require a tighter radius. Forms the nose skin perfectly square in seconds. 7skins per wing 14 skins total. Ignore the unprofessional messy work area!
 

Attachments

  • photo9701.jpg
    photo9701.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9702.jpg
    photo9702.jpg
    896.6 KB · Views: 0
A milestone has been reached today. Both wing superstructures have had every single 470 rivet bucked & both wings were placed into the skinning jig! Finally!! 996 man hours spent to get to this stage.
Wow 90% complete 90% to go!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210727_185100.jpg
    IMG_20210727_185100.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20210727_184507.jpg
    IMG_20210727_184507.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20210727_184449.jpg
    IMG_20210727_184449.jpg
    1,011.6 KB · Views: 0
  • IMG_20210727_184603.jpg
    IMG_20210727_184603.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 0
Just more general cheerleading about the Bearhawk project. RH wing has skin installed. Now I just have the simple lay out and about 1000 holes to drill & dimple. Skinning the wing is a snap with that wing skin roller I fabbed up. I used a 5/16 tipping die to roll the edges of each skin. The skins lay very nicely up against each other on the one good side. I tried to take a picture of of the tipped edge. Any questions ask away, Love talking Bearhawk.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210802_230339.jpg
    IMG_20210802_230339.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210802_230224.jpg
    IMG_20210802_230224.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210802_225847.jpg
    IMG_20210802_225847.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210802_220756.jpg
    IMG_20210802_220756.jpg
    994.3 KB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210802_192502.jpg
    IMG_20210802_192502.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210802_171559.jpg
    IMG_20210802_171559.jpg
    677.8 KB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210802_225947.jpg
    IMG_20210802_225947.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
Very nice work. Get that white plastic off the wing as soon as riveting is done, or enjoy 20 hrs per wing removing it like I did.
 
100% ! I am trying to figure a technique to remove 1" strips of plastic off easily. Without scratching the shine surface finish.
 
Genius ! I have a heat gun! Brilliant that will work like a hot dam. Thank you for that drop of ingenuity. "20 hrs per wing" Experience speaks!
 
Last edited:
Over the past months I have thought more about this post. Being a green BH builder I have started to noticed many ! things about the construction of every other plane I set my eyes on now. All of the designs have been borrowed from someone's past design & in some cases improved upon. It is not rocket science. I get upset when I see out right greedy people set up financial barriers to entry into aviation. The industry is rip for disruption imho. There is so much good stuff for younger ones to learn by getting involved in our hobby.
 
Some more BearHawk cheerleading. I have fitted the main wing skins on both wings, using to different procedures. 1st wing RH I only used 3 clecos to mount the skins, the 2nd LH wing I used 5 clecos 2 extra clecos around the nose. There was very little difference in the out come between the two technics. I could only pull the skins so tight. I used 4 - 20lb weights with bungee cords to assist in holding the skins tight while I lined them up with the ribs & do not forget to cross square the wing 1st. Pictures attached of RH/LH wings that have no measurable deficiencies of any kind. Now I am pulling off the plastic & continuing on with rivet layout, drilling & dimpling. This task could take awhile. Best regards to everyone.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210808_152302.jpg
    IMG_20210808_152302.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210808_152223.jpg
    IMG_20210808_152223.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210808_152214.jpg
    IMG_20210808_152214.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210804_183649.jpg
    IMG_20210804_183649.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_20210808_152413.jpg
    IMG_20210808_152413.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 1
Some simple cheerleading! Layout & drilling took 34hrs and that included building the skin stiffeners in the fuel tank bay. That is alot of holes. RH wing is ready to be deburred & dimple. :cool: Now it is rinse and repeat with the LH wing. So for anyone who is reading these post & has seen the picture of Macho BH5 flying showing oil panning between ribs #5, 6, 7, & 8 on the top skin. Imho, the photo is illustrating the loading of the rear spar in flight? Because we built aircraft with an abundance of caution. I have been thinking about up grading the underside skin from 0.020 up one thickness to 0.025 between ribs #5 - #11. Then continue with 0.020 the rest of the span. I would like to have a intelligent conversation regarding that photo and not some hear say conversation. Builder's please ring on this subject.
 

Attachments

  • photo9857.jpg
    photo9857.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9858.jpg
    photo9858.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9859.jpg
    photo9859.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9860.jpg
    photo9860.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 0
  • photo9861.jpg
    photo9861.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 0
100% agree, this is a builders forum. Just some simple open dialogue is all. That provides Avery unique perspective that we as builders and owners really never would get to see. Photo is worth a thousand words.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top