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Kit #7 arrived

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  • jaredyates
    replied
    How did you know there was a problem, did it not fully set up? I know that repeating work can be frustrating, but it is much easier to fix now than later.

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    What was once blue is no longer
    IMG_5136.jpg IMG_5135.jpg IMG_5134.jpg That was not fun.


    Had a poor accelerator/paint ratio and had to remove all the paint.

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    After spending 11 of the past 14 weeks working overseas, it is good to be back and working on the plane.

    Yesterday I hooked up lights to all the wing wires to confirm everything is working, only had one hiccup and that was an easy fix once the problem was diagnosed. So wing wires are all set.

    Today I fastened up all the wiring behind the panel so it is a bit more tidy looking.

    I also riveted the top and bottom engine cowls to the nose bowl so I can paint them.
    IMG_5119.jpg IMG_5120.jpg IMG_5122.jpg
    You may notice the texture in my paint, it is on purpose to match the texture of my oratex fabric

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  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Just to add, yes the paint has a texture, it is by design to match my Oratex fabric

    The photos of the nosebowl were taken inside the paint booth so the lighting was great for the photos, but the nosebowl looks great. Sadly it gets sanded tomorrow morning, then riveted and painted again after riveting to the respective top and bottom engine cowl
    Last edited by Utah-Jay; 11-03-2023, 08:09 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Well, today was a visual day.

    It was a serious milestone! I filled and sanded the nosebowl about 30 times, all be it at the end with 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. How long does a cycle of filling and sanding take? About 4 hours each time. It was like chasing a GHOST! But today it was all worth it
    IMG_4942.jpg IMG_4943.jpg IMG_4940.jpg IMG_4944.jpg IMG_4939.jpg IMG_4941.jpg Tomorrow the engine cowl gets riveted to the nose bowl and will all be painted.

    Happy Days

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Somebody took my plane apart
    IMG_4931.jpg
    Kidding aside, I am preparing for painting the boot cowl. Both the boot cowl and the firewall are dimpled for flush rivets. Now it is prep for painting time.

    I took the opportunity to finally trouble shoot my faulty Carb Heat sensor issue, I had a bad splice leading to the D-Sub, so redid that, this time I checked it on the ohm meter to make sure all was good.

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  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    It was like Groundhog Day only in hours. I am on my 7th time of filling, sanding and priming. Looks like bottom cowl is now at an acceptable level to get it through Phase 1, which after Phase 1 I will paint the engine cowl. I am only chasing pinholes. I may also add fiberglass reinforcement to the inside of the bowl
    IMG_4924.jpg IMG_4922.jpg IMG_4923.jpg

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  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Engine cowl final fit and holes upsized for #8 screws and nutplates as well as #4 rivets
    IMG_4914.jpg IMG_4915.jpg IMG_4918.jpg Black clecos are for #8 screws, copper colored clecos are for #4 rivets. The Cowl top will be riveted to the top of the nosebowl and the cowl bottom will be riveted to the bottom cowl.

    The nosebowl and engine cowl will not be painted until after phase 1. Boot cowl will be pained and riveted in “soon”

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    rodsmith


    Here ya go:

    Tefzel cable ties are highly engineered chemical and high-temperature resistant zip ties commonly used to bundle wires in nuclear and industrial plants.


    I got the 11.6” 50 pound ones.

    Leave a comment:


  • rodsmith
    commented on 's reply
    Where did you source the high temp zip ties?

  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Over the past few days I have been securing lines and hoses in the FWF area using high temperature zip ties and silicon tubing to create standoffs so there is no rubbing or chaffing.
    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 6 photos.

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    Rear windows went in today for the last time. I used Butyl sealant tape to seal against water leaks. As you can see form the photos there is a bit of putty removal needed, but I want to give it a few days to really settle in before I remove the excess.

    You do not have permission to view this gallery.
    This gallery has 4 photos.

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  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    When your jet lag and work hangover are so severe you don’t trust yourself to work on the plane you do this
    IMG_4855.jpg IMG_4854.jpg

    Then the next day I did some of this
    IMG_4877.jpg IMG_4879.jpg
    Back to working on the plane today

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    How do you ruin a perfectly good 5/16ths drill bit? Use it to upsize the stinger tailwheel spring.
    IMG_4706.jpg
    But it is all done and installed with a close tolerance AN175-15 bolt
    IMG_4704.jpg IMG_4705.jpg
    After drilling it out, both the spring and the mounting hole, both were reamed. Note: pull the reamer through
    Last edited by Utah-Jay; 09-03-2023, 03:26 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Utah-Jay
    replied
    95+% of my baffling/engine cooling prior to engine start are completed, it was a multi month process. The last part was slicing the rear silicone so slide into the U-supports for a night airtight fit.

    IMG_4707.jpg IMG_4712.jpg IMG_4708.jpg IMG_4711.jpg IMG_4713.jpg IMG_4709.jpg IMG_4710.jpg IMG_4709.jpg

    Leave a comment:

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